@chuck
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Need a bit more information and maybe some detailed photos to zero in on the issue. If the TL074 is seated in the correct orientation with the ‘U’ shaped notch toward the top of the board then the TL074 might not be functional.
Before you decide to spend money on another TL074 there are some common issues with The Vibe and the Dr Phybes these are the G2 ground pad at the top of the board that must be connected to ground in addition to the ground pads at the bottom, the trimmer needs to be tweaked to find the sweet spot to get the phase just right (Vibe is just fast Phase), and check the orientation of Q1 – Q4 – the board is laid out for 2N5952s but some kit vendors will supply 2N5457s that will work just fine but must go in the wrong way round.
Chuck
I suspect, but do not know for certain, that the pot spacing on the 3 pot Tone Bender is the same as the Aeon Drive, Angry Red Lama v2, Blues Buster v2, and Blues Power v2 that all have drill templates included in their build documents.
What I do when there is no drill guide is to first cover the top of the enclosure with painter’s tape, then mark a center line, place the board on the centerline placing the hole for pin 2 of the middle pot on the line, then use a pencil to mark the pin 2s of the other pots. This gets the pots more or less centered on the box. To get the correct top to bottom orientation you’ll need to decide if you’re going to use top or side jacks. With in/out and power jacks on the side you can put the outer pots as close as you want to the top of the box leaving just enough room to fit the pot condoms. If you’re going to use top mounted in/out and power jacks you’ll need to ensure you leave room so the pots as well as some stuff on the board don’t interfere with the jacks. The typical distance between the ‘fingers’ on a PCB mounted pot and the center of the shaft is about 13/16″. Could be a good idea to drill the middle pot a touch larger for a little wiggle room.
Chuck
Sammy, you can try adding a small bend to the transistor legs. Just a little, no need to go crazy with it.
Chuck
The top of the 2PDT board is now populated with a pair of Bat41s tented together and a pair of 2N7000s – I’m done messing with that bit. Volume is consistent between the switch down and up, and not too far off the center position. Sweet spot for me has the pedal volume at about 1:30-2:00, gain at 8:00-8:45 and guitar volume about 1/2-ish. I’m a finger picker, so it’s nice to be able to pick lightly and get a fairly clean-ish tone then add a little muscle to get some hair or tweak the guitar volume to get nasty.
I finally have a TS that I like (a lot).
Chuck
With no bypass and no effect I’d check to see if the jacks are good. A few years back I managed to get several bad jacks that drove me nuts.
Chuck
I had a different tremolo with a buzz that drove me nuts for a long time. Turned out the Gain trimmer was up too high. I’d check that after I tested it with a battery.
Chuck
Oh, that is most interesting and excellent.
Chuck
PS: I’m going to steal the Stage 3-Muff-Green Ringer part of that.
The Emerald Ring by itself sounds slightly boosted and slightly clipped – nothing really exciting (I just tried mine in that mode for the first time since 2016). Putting a dirt pedal before or after, rolling back the guitar tone and playing above the 12th fret is where the magic happens. If that doesn’t work for yours the “wicked clear photos” Playsforfun suggests will likely get the attention form someone will will point directly at the problem most of us will miss.
Chuck
First question that comes to mind is where do you have the Bass, Mid, and Treble pots set? Above 50% they will boost the signal which would give the impression of too much gain. The clipping LEDs tend to be louder than other diodes so maybe replacing them with 1N914s or 1N4148s would drop it some.
Chuck
It can be done. I’m using a couple of a Quantum Effects Boron Buffers (available on OSH Park) on my board – one for the dirt pedals and a second for the effects loop. They’re based on the Klon buffer and both have in and out buffers using a single TL072. Each has two ins and two outs – in from the guitar and out to the board then in from the board and out to the amp. The component values you’ve shown are similar but, the differences maybe due to the Boron’s Klon heritage. You probably need to add a 1N5817 to the + voltage.
Chuck
The mods get the Chorus to flanger-ish when the Roto-Tone is turned but when it’s turned back is no effect on chorus function.
This one has the Roto-Tone Wilkie1 capacitor mod and the earlier electrolytic cap on a switch mod which (if I understand the mod correctly) adds a 10uf cap to the 2.2uf cap – when the switch is flipped on it gets even more flanger-ish than the Wilkie1 mod but still not a purpose built full on flanger. When off it also has no effect on the chorus function.
This is what I worked from in the first run before the Roto-Tone and Wilkie1 mod:
With the Roto-Tone you can ignore the pf caps on the left side of the switch.
Chuck
Chuck
To do my part to uphold wilkie1’s “Sometimes there are dumb answers” if you take careful measurements you can drill a couple holes in the face of your box and mount the LEDs on the back of the board so they poke through just a bit. When you’re really leaning into it they will flash with your power cords.
Chuck
I found this discussion comparing the 5817 to the 5819 -“<span class=”ILfuVd” lang=”en”><span class=”hgKElc”>The 1N5817 is rated at 20V, with a 450 mV drop at 1A and the 1N5819 is 40V, with a 600 mV drop at 1A. This makes the <b>1n5819 slightly inferior to the 1n5817</b>. Also to get the required voltage out you would need to make about 2% more voltage in at the same current with the 1n5819.” In the scope of a 9v circuit 2% is probably not a major deal breaker but coupled with a “broken” C4 it’s not going to help. The 3PDT switch looks like a toggle – is it an On/On, On/On/On or On/Off/On? I haven’t used a 3PDT toggle in place of a stomp so I don’t know if a different type will make any difference. Based on some problems I had several years ago you might want to use your multimeter to check continuity of the jacks themselves – I had several builds in my Box of Fail that had bad jacks.</span></span>
Chuck
