@chuck
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Very nicely done! The Fuzz Face is the Lays Potato Chip of the pedal world! Can you elaborate on “works nicely to retain a guitar’s dynamic interaction with its volume pot” a little? Are you saying that if I have my Strat’s volume cranked to get the fuzz screaming for mercy and lower the fuzz’s volume so the neighbors don’t complain the character of the fuzz stays the same just quieter?
Chuck
It dawned on me after I posted that Barry’s current PURP is designed for the more spacious 1590B rather than the 1590A of the older version – which really enforces tidiness.
Chuck
Interesting concept. Any way you can do an audio demo of this? My imagination comes up short on what this might sound like.
Chuck
It’s a little complicated but doable. Using one of Barry’s 3PDT boards for the Fuzz Face will ease some of the complication – power and ground connections will need to go from the jack to the 3PDT to the charge pump then to the fuzz board. Using either of Barry’s Order Switching options will work without issue as long as you can keep the Ins and Outs sorted.
Chuck
I did that. The center becomes ‘no clipping’ but doesn’t make a startling difference from the other two settings.
Chuck
I’m feeling a need to revisit my MK 1.5 Tonebender build from a few years ago in a slightly larger format. Basic component changes from the standard PUFF build – C1 to 4.7u, R2 to 47K, R3 to 470R, and P2 A100K. Maybe the Roger Mayer Classic (Early) by changing R1 to 1K and P1 to a B2K.
Dang it, I was starting to get my pile of near builts thinned out.
Chuck
I’ll seconds Billy’s advice to check the I and O jack connections. It looks like you have two red wires connected to the 9V holes at the top of the board – one is from the 3PDT board – where is that other one coming from/going to? Don’t know if it is killer or not but D3 doesn’t look like a 1N34 – granted not all 1N34’s look alike, but yours looks a lot like a 1N4148.
Chuck
With that many Marshalls in one box that has to be heavy! Haven’t seen anybody use a stomp switch in place of the sliders on the After Blaster before (or I just missed it). Good job!
Chuck
Wilkie1, the switch is there (upper right corner) but I did forget to attribute that mod to you.
Chuck
If you are not getting any signal through either when bypassed or when the pedal is on there is a problem in the way the jacks have been wired. My personal preference when using the 3PDT board is to connect the I (in), O(out) with their associated grounds (the unlabeled spots right below the I and O) to the jacks, and then use the BI (board in) and BO (board out) spots on the 3PDT board to connect to the main board using the In and Out spots marked with the small T – on the Blues Buster these are toward the top of the board where you have the white wires connected.
Also, we’d probably get a lot more help if the conversation was taking place on the GuitarPCB Build Support board rather than the general discussion board.
Chuck
Can you be more specific about how it doesn’t work? Does the pedal pass signal when by passed? Does the LED light up when it’s activated?
I’d start by checking connections between board and switch/jacks. The solder joints on the In and Out on the board don’t look great and the Out connection on the switch doesn’t look good either. The angle of the photo is not great but the 9V and G connections between the 3PDT board and the main board might need some attention as well.
Can you also post a good photo of the back side of the board?
Chuck
