@chuck
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I’ve tried different ICs in the Zendrive in the past. While they don’t actually increase the gain, they may add a bit of color that gives the impression of a bit more gain. I’ve got a TL082 and a OPA2134 in different builds as well as the TL072.
Chuck
Barry,
When I initially boxed this OKF and Emerald Ring the signal cut out when I engaged the Ring and it didn’t work on its own. Thinking I had damaged the Ring removing it from one box and installing it in another I ordered another. Before pulling everything out of the box I checked it one more time and the PCB Fairy obviously had done her magic so I left the older Ring in place and finished that box. I also have a couple more OKF boards to experiment with so I’ll try putting the other Ring before the fuzz in one of those (and pretend I did all that on purpose).
Chuck
Got some wind and power issues in Texas today, but I think we’re good for now. Here are photos of the GBOF NPN Fuzz Face with external bias.
The box:
And the guts:
Thanks for looking.
Chuck
Emexar Box:
Emexar Guts
:
Thanks for the tech help guys. I learned something so it’s a good day.
Will get the Fuzz Face up later.
Chuck
There’s an old saying I used to see a lot on this site “Socket and see” – can’t see any reason the proposed mods wouldn’t work. If you socket the modifications and the mods don’t work it will be easier to undo them and make it work as originally intended or mod the mods to get something you like.
Chuck
Confession up front: I haven’t built one of these since the 2A version in 2015 that soldered directly to the stomp switch.
Did you get this as a kit or did you buy the board and an source the parts yourself? The reason I ask is the resistor installed in the 3PDT board does not look like the typical 4.7k that’s recommended for LED protection – at this point it’s not doing anything, but it’s not right.
I’d recommend that you recheck/reflow all the solder joints on the back of the main board paying special attention to the sockets. Also do the same for the 3PDT board and check carefully for stray strands that may be touching something. If you didn’t already follow the advice to solder one leg of the transistors to the socket, don’t do that (personal bias) but do pull each transistor and add a slight kink in the legs so that they fit very tightly into the sockets – don’t go crazy with the bends.
Head smack.
Forgot to mention that if the Pinch pot is turned down the pedal will sound like it’s seriously not right.
Chuck
I forgot to mention on the Dumbletone build I found an LM833 in my stash and used it. I like it a lot.
Chuck
My assumption when I built my second version of that fuzz was to use the basic 3 transistor mojo/rumor guidance – put the lowest hFE in Q1, next highest in Q2 and highest in Q3. Liked it a lot but can’t say that it actually made any difference. Made me feel smaert though.
Chuck
It is way more impressive when using the actual volume pot as a volume pot and the actual fuzz pot as the fuzz pot. Thank goodness the finish is a single thin coat and a little work with an Exacto blade will get the labeling corrected. Those 89s are still on my work bench.
Chuck
Oops, I turned that thing over and over to make sure I had it right. That may change how I felt about the 2n5089s.
The purpose of my life is to serve as a warning to others.
Chuck
Nice work. The colored knobs look a touch like the rainbow on the original Dark Side of the Moon album cover.
Chuck
“The circuit is not biased for 2N7000.”
The build document says “Q6-Q8 2N7000”. I assumed that the BS107s were offered because you were out of 2N7000s.
Okay, I found the audio probe. Not going to use it though. Was getting ready to populate a spreadsheet with voltages and write a description of what effect was or was not doing when decided to put the board back in the box so I could hook it back up and sort out my impressions. In the process I remembered that I’d pulled the BS170s and replaced them with 2N7000s so I put the 170s back in making sure they were firmly seated and gave the 108Cs next door a good poke as well. Put everything mostly back in the box, hooked it up on my board, turned my amp volume way up, turned the amp on, and immediately had to crank it back down. With all three volumes and the WattAmp gain maxed I’m pretty sure that deaf people way down the street said “What’s that noise”. I want to pretend that reseating the Mosfets and transistors fixed it but I can’t. Got to pretty this one up and post it with the done stuff.
Chuck
Haven’t found my audio probe yet but I did check the resisters Barry listed and they were correct so I did some more probing with the multimeter. I get nice chirping tones between the input tip and each of the ins on the board and stomp boards. The output tip has nice connection with the top of the board and the WattAmp but not to the Luna or the Phaser. While the Phaser and Luna have good connections between the switches and the bottom of the board there is no connectivity between the Out at the top of the board and the Phaser/Luna connections at the bottom.
Chuck
Thanks Barry and Billy. Here are the photos I promised earlier. I first checked continuity of the DC, and In/Out jacks finding no issues there. Used my multimeter to check the pot values on all the Volume and Gain pots and they look to be in spec and functioning correctly. I usually search the build document for odd resistor and capacitor values and install those first so I don’t screw up 24+ resistors into a build – but I don’t always do what I plan to do so I’ll check those. Got to find that audio probe I made years ago and figure out how to use it again. Think it’s just a bad LED but just in case it might mean something – the yellow 3mm LED for the Luna Fuzz isn’t working. The red and green LEDs I used for the WattAmp and Phaser are working fine and the 5mm yellow LED is positively mesmerizing.
I’m off to poke and prod some more.
Chuck
