@chuck
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David, the second link provided by sofnwhat posted gets you the Advanced Build Guide (ABG) that covers a bunch of optional mods that are interesting. The first one just gets you info on building 10 different BMP variants.
Chuck
David, I confirmed that the only difference between the V2 and V4 is the arrangement of the boards. I was incorrect that the current version is V3 – it is V4 but the part numbers and schematics are the same. The build document for V4 is available in the Shop/Fuzz/Big Muff Pi Muff’n.
Chuck
That is the V2 board. I believe that the differences between the V2 and current V3 are in the arrangement of components but the part numbers are the same – but I could be mistaken. I’ll take a quick look at my build documents and respond if there are differences.
Chuck
Is there a volume increase when the gain pot is turned? If not, recheck that you’ve used the correct value pot and the pot is good as well. I have an older version of this one and it doesn’t produce gain the way the GuitarPCB Zenith does (that LED in the gain stage does a lot). My Azimuth does get a bit more hair when the gain is cranked and the volume turned down.
It would be nice if aion would provide support for their products.
Chuck
Generally no effect and no LED light would indicate a power issue. A couple of photos of the front and back of the board and associated wiring would would be helpful.
Chuck
Bob, I believe the MN3207 is supposed to be a close to direct replacement for the V3207 – so, the same jumpers would need to be used along with the 1N4148. Do you have both grounds from the board hooked up? That pesky G2 on the upper left corner has stumped several builders.
Chuck
Ideally you want to bias the 2N5457s to between 4.5v and 6.5v using those trimmers and a multimeter. You’d power the pedal up and place the multimeter probe on the Drain of each 2N5457 the adjust the trimmer up or down until you get the correct value – the correct value depends on the 2n5457 (generally around 6.0v) and your taste (you could find that 5.9v is the magic tone or 6.2v is way better). The way the board is laid out the Drain is the leg of the transistor closest to the bottom of the board. You would have to do the same thing if you were using J113s, MPF102s or J201s.
If you don’t have a multimeter you can sort of do this by ear by starting with all three trimmers set close to the same point and slowly tweeking each one up or down the same amount in small increments until you get the sound you want.
Chuck
Sepp,
With the sound traveling from PURP #2 to PURP #1 when the 7066S was changed I believe the 7066S provided with #2 originally (assuming you bought it as a kit) was not good. If it were mine, I would contact the vendor and request a replacement 7066S.
I strongly disagree with the assertion on the other forum that there is a problem with the PURP board – I have an original small version that I have been using for several years and have also built several of it’s PU cousins (PUTP and PUFF) without issues (other than the ones I caused).
Chuck
Guess I’m kind of the dinosaur in this room. In the absence of a drill guide provided in the build document I will cover the surfaces of the box I intend to drill with painter’s tape, measure and mark the center line. Depending on the board I sometimes use the board to help align holes for pots/switches. Once everything has been marked, checked and re-checked I use a step drill bit in a 1940’s vintage Delta drill press to drill the holes (the vintage press makes the pedals sound better, like having all the knobs go to 11). For boards with a lot of board mounted pots I’ll sometimes bore one vertical row slightly oversized to ease assembly.
Chuck
The DSOTM output is not going to damage the D’lay whether in separate boxes or a single box. The Fuzzpup Double Up looks kind of interesting.
Chuck
The photo isn’t clear enough for me to determine damage to the PCB. Assuming the SWAH isn’t working – Is the 78L05 soldered directly to the board? While they will usually stand up to soldering my habit is to use sockets for ICs and transistor like devices, makes it easy to swap out wrong/no-functional parts.
Chuck
Pascal, I’ve looked at this post a few times hoping someone smarter has provided a response. Your soldering looks great and components all look to be correct so I can’t point at any one thing and say there is the problem – your build looks very neat and clean. Does the “hiss and noise” you are hearing change when you when you turn the gain or tone knobs up or down? Do you have any other pedals before or after the Ludicrous Speed? If yes, does the “hiss and noise” change when they are on or off or removed from the pedal chain?
My build will give some hiss when the gain is all the way up that drops down as the gain is reduced. The hiss changes character a bit when the tone pot is turned up or down as well.
Chuck
I didn’t in any way intend to cast shade on one of Barry’s boards though I may not have expressed it well. My variations of the DSOTM live on my board quite happily with their volumes and gains at about 10 o’clock while the Fuzz Bxxx is a bit happier with the volume between 1 and 2 o’clock and the silicon fuzz face next to it likes high noon better. Everything has it’s own sweet spot.
Chuck
Should have mentioned that mine was originally populated with 2N3053s both with hFE around 217. Just now I replaced them with a pair of BC108s with Q1 at 220 and Q2 at 280 – this raised the volume some but still less than the DSOTM. Then I replaced the 108s with a 109 (hFE 526) in Q1 and a108 with hFE 577 in Q2 – this is grittier and a touch louder but still not in DSOTM territory but that’s comparing a two transistor fuzz (sort of a Fuzz Face) to a three transistor fuzz (sort of a (hot rodded) Tone Bender). I like it better with the 108/109 combo.
Chuck