@barry
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Do me a favor.
That cap is there to limit the Bass from hitting too hard which might cause a static jolt sound.
Try this:
Remove C9 altogether and test the circuit. You do not need to jumper anything, just remove it. Then report back here what your findings are.
Also are you using hot pickups?
Yes, buy a Muff’n (Q1 through Q4) and combine it with the Stage 3 Booster (that’s what Q5 is) and there you go.
Just put them in series and place the Stage 3 Booster last, or near the output.
It would be much more versatile to have a separate volume and foot-switch for the boost but you could also just use the volume of the Stage 3, (bypassing the Volume on the Muff’n as well as a bypass foot-switch for the Stage 3) to control the entire circuit as it is done in the CornishP1.
That is all it is, via the schematic.
I have no idea of anyone offerring a kit but you can do it on your own using our Combo Build info located on the Guides Page.
Sorry I missed this. It is quite excellent and I am glad you enjoy it. This circuit is one of my favorites of all Fuzz’s and not just DIY circuits either. Thanks for sharing and that is excellent on the stencil.
The reason for not using Pot Mounted PCBs was so that you could place the pots where you like on your enclosure as opposed to being restricted to the PCB designers idea of where they should be placed.
I eventually was one of the last PCB guys to cave in to the idea of all PCB Mounted pots since it is a bit easier than running three individual wires.
That said we previously did all hand wired for a decade. The wires themselves hold the PCB in place.
As long as you have wiring that is not longer than two inches for each lug then you will have three wires on each pot. Finally the board will not move once you wired all of the pots. The board will tightly float above the pots.
See our Guides Page for more:
Many of us have been doing this for a very long time and it absolutely works. It is also good to know if you ever explore vero board or other DIY builds. For example this build below has no on-board pots.
That is fantastic and thank you for sharing.
How do you like using the 2 Knob Job to be able to switch between two user set speeds?
Also did you choose a latching or momentary switch for the Speed switch? Just curious.
Anything more you want to share about it let us know. If it is possible to do a quick demo regarding the speed switching I would be interested to hear it as I am sure others would be. Yes that is me speaking for the thousand lurkers out there who for some unknown reason are afraid to post. (I can see you)
BTW folks “2 Knob Job” boards are back in stock as are many other Mod Boards.
Did you email Klaus at Das Musikding and ask him if it is possible for you to get a V3 board and on-board potentiometers with your kit?
If you did not I believe it would be worth asking.
Yes you can make NEW circuit OUT wiring to be the left pad of R6 (looking at board front). You can see on the back of the board it is connected to Volume Pad 2. This matches with the schematic. Obviously you would not need to populate any components on the board after Volume (schematic wise). Finish by running the wire from the left pad of R6 to Lug 7 of the foot switch or BO of the 3PDT wiring board following our wiring scheme.
Again checking with the schematic you can avoid the hot switch by not populating R3 and using a jumper between switch pads 2 & 3.
I hope that helps.
Just there to show you you can also use MLCC or ceramic which will also free up space for top mounted jacks in that particular build.
Hi,
Here is the file link you need.
https://guitarpcb.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/06/Blues-Power-v2-2021.pdf
Excellent and thanks for sharing!
I remember meeting many of the guitarists from 3 bands who were touring together back in 1981.
That was Iron Maiden (opener), Whitesnake and headliner Judas Priest. Iron Maiden was still at that time using Rangemasters due to not being able to crank their amps loud enough to sound proper for their music. They were the opener and all opening acts get the shaft. I had long discussions with all of Iron Maiden from which that story came up. I did not discuss that with anyone else but I am certain that Judas Priest and many others did the same thing for quite a while. When I met Randy Rhoads in 1982 at a guitar seminar in Greensburg, Pa he was basically using the Distortion+ for the same reason and then using a graphic EQ to wipe out the hiss and as a side effect created his own unique tone. Those who try to get Randy’s tone by just using the Distortion+ all by itself are not going to get it right.
Anyway just wanted to share that confirmation story since using circuits in tandem is a beautiful thing.
Re-flow all solder joints because that would not be normal.
Perhaps even a bad pot. Check all resistor values one by one in the general area (schematic wise) around that pot.
That would mean everything is good then.
For anybody reading always test a new pedal by itself and not in any chain or loop.
