@barry
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I think more people need to quit being lurkers and express some love here for stuff like this.
So much to learn and so much better effects to be had.
If you do not understand ask questions. That is what it is all about here.
I would start by doing things like re-flowing all the pads. Then after that try again. It is a bit of a Sherlock mystery sometimes. I would also make sure you have very firm transistor connections. If they are kind of flopping around in there it can cause a problem like this.
You can bend the leads back and forth a few times at opposite angles to get more traction on the transistor.
Verify the pinout of the transistor you are using as well.
Yah I also have been diagnosed with Psoriatic Arthritis as well.
I believe that part is genetic and I am fairly certain the fibromyalgia is from etching, drilling and cutting hundreds of boards every month. Oddly enough I can still play guitar while not being able to feel my hands. (except for the stinging pain of course)
Give me till next Friday (10th) and message me about this as a reminder.
While I was obviously good at hand etching I am fairly certain that etching is the reason for my severe and debilitating fibromyalgia. Too many chemicals and other bad things for too long.
Anyway why don’t you throw that out because I cannot find a copy of that document for it anyway and I will send you a much better, modern board as soon as they are back in stock in about a week.
Shorten the leads. You can also angle bend them with pliers to properly fit in the sockets without shortening them too much further. In other words they do not need to just be straight leads pointed toward the socket holes. Just be careful to only do one bend and leave the lead alone because too many attempts to reposition can break the lead off entirely.
If you do not want to do that it looks like you still have plenty of lead to work with so shorten them a bit at a time till you get it. I would still give them a slight bend right before they are supposed to go into the socket.
I would remove the LED clippers and replace. Do not test again at 18v.
Probably re-flow and touch up everything else.
These circuits are all designed to work at 9 volts.
I am not sure why this is getting overlooked twice but Cybercow and Billy have asked:
Is it correct that you don’t get VB at the junction of R18 and 19 ?
I think that needs to be clarified unless I missed it somewhere.
All you need to do is use your DMM and put the black probe on ground and the red probe on the + positive pad of C21. Then report your voltage.
If it is a high pitched whine it is your charge pump.
Make sure it is a 7660S and make sure it is genuine.
Anything less is a guaranteed whine.
You should post a picture of your completed build so we can see what was wired wrong.
If you are melting pads either you may be using to much heat, too big of a soldering tip or perhaps not using a de-soldering pump.
If there is no sound does that mean in bypass as well?
As for completed builds these are the ones that I grabbed from a search of the forum:
+1 – I cannot see enough of what I need to see with just the photo above. It begs me to reach in the photo and start mauling over the entire board and while I am at it I would be re-flowing all solder joints and off-board wiring.
While it is technically possible, the chance of the board being faulty is extremely low.
So if after re-flowing (troubleshooting must do) we will need more good pictures and post some voltages as well.
Voltage right at the power jack first.
Then all of the transistors.
Either way would work.
Some of the wiring is actually backup and not mandatory but backup is better.
Be 100% sure that your PURPLE IN wire (photo above) from 3PDT (I) to Stereo Jack is going to actual TIP. Not all jacks are the same so do not just go by the drawing of the Jack and make sure it is TIP by connection and inspection.
Speaking of did you test your connections in Continuity mode using your DMM and the chart above?
