@barry
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It is perfectly fine to solder IC Chips to the PCB if you are good at doing it without over heating them. I do it all the time. I did say above in my post that the first things to solder are the Diode and Sockets.
Previous post:
Another good reason for socketing is in case you solder the chip in the wrong orientation or want to switch out a bad chip.
Anyway I would just go ahead and build it up but take your time and carefully plot your course.
The Phaser is one of the few PCBs that requires standing resistors unless you’re using 1/8″ resistors (which most people don’t have on hand). It’s simply the only way everything will fit on the board. So if you’re using standard 1/4″ resistors, you’ll need to install them vertically.
As mentioned earlier, it’s best to start with the lowest-profile components first. Just keep in mind that once installed, standing resistors will sit about as tall as the film capacitors.
For this build, a good order of assembly would be to start with D2 (diode), then move on to the IC and transistor sockets. After that, install the small ceramic capacitors (pF values), followed by the standing resistors and film capacitors. Finish up with the electrolytic capacitors and the LDR section.
Here are a few additional reference photos:
Resistor orientation doesn’t matter, so no need to worry about which way they face (see above).
It’s also a good idea to use the BOM as a checklist while you go—it helps catch anything you might otherwise miss.
Even experienced builders make mistakes now and then, so take your time and don’t rush it. And be sure to read through the guides—they’ll save you a lot of trouble.
These ones most of all!
Hi and welcome.
There are several beginner guides on the Guides Page.
You can access through the Main Menu Bar up top or:
Scroll down and find the tings you need and take your time.
The results are in for the NostalgiTone Panel Contest — thanks to everyone who took the time to enter.
I ended up combining five sets of rankings from different individuals to arrive at the final placements, based on the criteria outlined (overall presentation, build execution, and panel integration).
Final Results
🥇 1st Place — Zoso (jmgrabowski)
This one stood out for its overall balance and execution. Clean layout, strong visual cohesion. This took priority over the “2112” build since only one of them could be awarded a prize but was also a fine submission.🥈 2nd Place — Phaser (jasonwickersham)
A very strong showing here that clearly resonated across multiple voters.🥉 3rd Place — 70’s Triple (Matt)
Probably the most creative entry of the group. The theme was nailed and it definitely had the most visual personality.Honorable Mentions
- DSOTM (Max)
- BRIT-800 (Tiger1050)
Both of these had solid ideas and execution.
Prizes will be issued as one-time use discount codes as outlined in the original post. CONTACT ME for your PRIZE CODE.
Thanks again to everyone who participated — really appreciate the effort that went into these builds.
These all look fantastic — thank you to everyone who submitted an entry.
I’m going to take a few days to review everything and gather a few additional opinions so I can put together a fair overall ranking.
I’ll post the results shortly after that.
Congrats!
The trimmer is for setting the bias of the chorus. There will be a fine spot where you will hear the best chorus. Sounds like you found it. The build document has been updated.
Is this going to be a contest entry?
I’m extending the NostalgiTone Panel Contest for one more week to give everyone a bit more time to finish up builds and get entries in.
Deadline is now April 17th.
In Australia their kit is listed on this page for the Phaser. It is listed as out of stock so you will have to email them.
With a Kit you would receive at least all of the components, pcb, jacks.
I think you need to add-on the Enclosure and knobs separately to your order.
If you have questions I would email them via this KIT link.
There’s nothing wrong with the circuit or layout — it’s been verified multiple times, both by me and many others.
The first thing I’d suggest is checking all resistor values by color band, since they can’t be reliably tested in-circuit. Here’s a chart from the Guides page if you need a reference. Download the full-color Resistor chart.
Next, reflow the solder joints, especially around everything related to the Gain control, including the potentiometer.
This only takes 5–10 minutes, and in my experience, cold solder joints or a mixed up resistor value are by far the most common issues.
One last check is to make sure there are no cracks in the glass diodes.
If the panel is pre-drilled, the washers from the footswitches and potentiometers will hold it snugly in place. You can still add adhesive if you’d like (E6000 or similar), but it’s not required.
If you’re drilling the panel over the enclosure, then you must use silicone or a similar adhesive and let it set as outlined in the official guide.
DIY Control Panel Drilling Guide (PDF)
