@barry
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Hi Tommie,
The main mods are listed in the Build Document.
Be sure you have the latest depending on where you got the document.
You can use a Tone TwEQ for proper Active 3 Band tone control which is the best of all mods using the A/B pads. To me that would be better than any other mod as it would offer full tonal flexibility superior to any scoop or diode mods.
Additionally you can view the DPDT Wiring Board document for ideas on using that instead. Also you probably want to look at the Guides Page for even more ideas in photos and writing using layman terms. The Guides Page can always be accessed from the Home/Landing page by hitting the Green Button or on the main Forum Page by also hitting the Green button at the bottom. There are many innovative ideas you can try with examples and diagrams. 🙂
You always have access to the old forum.
It is separated by a .webs
If you go to the Guides Page – The link to the old site can be accessed there or on the Home Page see the Big Green Button then you will always have The Link ready or perhaps just bookmark it.
In this case you just need to go to the Forum/Layout Gallery on the old site and manually search through the 5 pages of threads for the EA Tremolo. If you use the directory it will not work unless you add a .webs after guitarpcb.com and manually correct the url.
For example the address will default it will default to guitarpcb.com/whatever and you will get an error page. All you have to do is add a .webs to that. So instead it would be guitarpcb.webs.com/whatever and it will correct so the download will work. That goes for any old build documents or perhaps there are some other pictures or audio files that are hosted on the old site that may give an error page. That is the simple fix.
LEDs can be dimmed in two ways: analog and pulse-width modulation (PWM) dimming. Despite its attractive simplicity, analog dimming can be inappropriate for many applications because it loses dimming accuracy by about 25 percent+ at only 10:1 brightness levels. Pulsing is a more complicated animal.
We secretly do not want anyone not using the kill switch if it kills us. This makes it only 1 pedal instead of two in one. Quality Buffers are magic all by themselves and why so many boutique companies are offering buffer only pedals.
I will have a look at the doc later when I have a chance on a more serious note but then actually I am unintentionally serious.
Criss as Cybercow explained the difference is very small. That said he covered everything you needed to know so I wanted to just say hello and perhaps suggest you have a look at some of our guides, particularly the Crash Course material which covers many things you seem interested in. Furthermore all of our guides are written for laymen (not engineers) so I believe they will answer many questions including ones you probably didn’t know you have yet. Coincidentally our motto has always been Socket and See.
Enjoy:
https://guitarpcb.com/forums/topic/pedal-building-guides-mandatory-reading/
If you have questions post them in a new thread under General Discussion or Support to keep this thread clean.
Please do not post below this response.
Do not post below this thread in order to keep this section clean.
Return to the GUIDES PAGE
You can always use the “old site” link by using the Guides Page Here.
In other words everything is there as a knowledge database.
The only thing with outdated build documents (or any file) from the Layout Gallery is you will have to add a (.webs) to the url since I changed domains to get it to work and download.
That said here is the downloadable link from the old site with the .webs added into the url to make it work.
Zero does not equal no sound. – Many pedals do not go “completely quiet” when the volume is at zero.
Should the Volume Knob at Zero be louder than unity gain as you described above… No.
Three Questions:
- When your Volume is at Zero and you rotate it up full does it get extra loud or softer?
- Is there tape on the back of the dual-gang pot?
- R7 = Blue, Gr, Black, Br, Br
Next check and verify all capacitor codes. Once you have verified all capacitor codes then re-flow all solder joints to be certain there are no cold solder joints causing the problem.
I cannot see the color bands easily in the photo so the next thing to check is all resistor values by color band since you cannot test them in circuit. You can use the card in the guides section or you can use an online calculator.
The problem you are describing sounds to me like a possible resistance issue.
There are not that many so it should not take too long but do not rely on packaging, labels etc and do them all by color band with the build guide photo in hand and check them off one at a time.
One other thought is the Output Jack looks very close to shorting on the back of the pot where there is no tape especially when inserting a cable which would expand it. Just an after thought.
Did you hand wire the Volume?
If so you may have wired it backwards if it is loud when off and you get nothing when turning it up.
Reverse Lugs 3 and 1 at the potentiometer (not the board) to change how the Pot works.
Pictures are much more helpful as I am blindly guessing here.
That said you do have a build issue as we would never release a circuit that worked in that manner.
Regarding the “Old Site” question see our Guides section and you will find the link to the old site which will be kept as an archive.
Thanks very much and this year I gained a year.
How you ask? For some reason I spent the last few months thinking I was going to be turning 55 and it turns out that I just turned 54 so I count that as a FREE year. Rock on everybody!
Love Steve Hackett.I remember buying Voyage of the Acolyte just because for the cover on vinyl back in the early 80’s and was pleasantly surprised. Very under appreciated here in the states I think.
Sorry I missed this one. Very awesome combo and thanks for the report and share!
I love to here all about exciting new combo ideas. The guitarist painters palette = Combo’s!
Use a 100nF. A 22nF allows all standard tuned frenquencies of a guitar. If you want detuned, baritone or Bass 100nF is plenty. 220nF is for Bass only as well as 5 string Bass. If you used that for standard guitar at loud volumes you are likely to get undesirable low rumblings hence the switch. 100nF is a good value for both without being too low for detuned guitars.
It is a stripped down tube screamer, no buffer or unnecessary extras.