@barry
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The best PCB for this is the Paramix. <—- Build Guide Link
This will allow you to connect any number of pedals and MIX. It also has a switch that will fix phase issues.
No need to mod pedals.
I am very glad to hear it is solved. Thanks for reporting back.
The NSL-32 is marked for polarity with a dot.
Always check the datasheet for any part when in doubt or, of course, ask here in the forum.
The cocked-wah tone could be achieved by using a Wah or our DVF circuit.
He sounds like he also has a Fuzz pedal as well in tandem with the cocked wah tone. I do not think the type of Fuzz is as critical as getting the cocked wah tone to be able to achieve the overall sound.
You will get a lot more views and reaction if you post the actual “image link” directly into the forum message.
Like this:
Enjoy. 😉
This circuit already passes Bass frequencies down to 30hz which is way below what a standard 6 string guitar would require. Since you removed C9 from the equation there is no additional Bass filter. There is no active part of the circuit that would create a high-end boost. A compressor will however boost all frequencies across the board, but if your Strat is already bright then you will notice an apparent boost in brightness before you notice the boost in Bass.
So that leaves a few thoughts.
Is there a build issue? I somehow doubt it.
Perhaps when lowering pickup height you still need to lower the Treble side a wee bit more? You could probably check this by testing on each of the three pickups individually, note your findings and adjust accordingly or just go strict Fender recommendations based on the video above. Be sure to hold the string down at the highest fret when measuring for pickup height on either side of the fret board.
I would also ask to make sure you are testing using only the squishy circuit and 2 good cables with no other pedals hooked up in series so as to run a fair individual circuit test.
Finally the only “mod” you could do to affect tonality would be to incorporate a Tone TwEQ board which is an “Active EQ” and will give you both Gain or Cut of Bass, Treble and Mids.
I am not sure I am getting your question.
The switch will work in either orientation. If you do not like the direction the switch is switching for you in the final build simply turn it 180 degrees. You can look at the Guides Page and see the Guide for Components to learn more about switches.
I hope that helps.
Hi,
This wiring is correct.
- S1 to daughter board BI
- S2 to daughter board I
- S7 to daughter board BO
- S8 to daughter board O
That said it is impossible to verify other connections.
- Do you have sound in bypass?
- What voltage are you getting at the 9v pad of the main board?
Yep, that is what I thought.
You need an MPF102 for Q3 as well if you do not want to desolder anything.
Making Q3 an MPF102 will not modify the tone either. It will allow you to bias though.
Send me a message using the Contact Me if you need assistance in getting another MPF102. I will be glad to help.
That little test tells me what I need to know. I think?
I need to know what transistors you have now in Q1, Q2 and Q3. Your previous statement does not give me that detail.
With component tolerances and biasing circuits it is not always going to be an exact science.
Let me know what transistors in what position you originally used and verify which one is causing the voltage to be raised.
Number one thing to do in a troubleshoot is to re-flow.
Use a conical tip and beware of too much heat. Have some extra solder handy while doing this for when it is needed. You want to re-flow the solder so it is a complete joint and not a bulb on top or a dull joint that has gaps. So many issues have been solved by re-flowing. Clean your soldering tip often.
To aid you I would do every joint I marked in the photo at the very least. Personally I would touch them all up.
Try switching the 2N5457 to Q1 and put a MPF102 in Q3. Then try to lower the voltage.
Voltage at Q3 is too high.
You will have to redo all voltages starting from Q1 again. Go for 4.5v at Q1 and Q2 if you can.
You measure between Drain and any ground.
Only use 2 known, good cables and pedal, nothing else. No chains.
Report back.
You may want to verify your pickup heights.
I also have a MIM Strat. It is very easy to have the pickups set too high at either of the three pickups on either side. There are other tonal reasons to verify this as well like avoiding note warble. I have a heavy right hand when I strum and I usually set all my pickups below Fender specs due to this. I can also verify that with a higher pickup height that it will cause a noise like you describe.
Check out this video that I have cued up for you.
It is always best to be sure.
Yes, I got to see it personally, and you would somehow expect it to be larger than it is in reality.
Re-read what I wrote and check the links.
My previous post has already answered those questions including a basic wiring diagram on how to wire pedals in series.
You could just place them in series with the Tone TwEQ after the Muff’n. This would give you and additional volume control (see image). You could also use a trimmer as the volume control on the Tone TwEQ in this scenario as a set and forget inside the enclosure setting and just rely on tweaking the Bass, Mid and Treble for less knobs on the outside.
That would be this:
The black knobs on the left would be the Tone TwEQ controls.
The white knobs are the Muff’n controls and in this case he also added a Stage 3 booster which is the boost knob.
Tips on wiring can be found on the Guides Page.
https://guitarpcb.com/community/topic/wiring-examples-standard-series-combo-buff-n-blend-easy-order-tone-tweq/
Building it this way will also give you a fully working Tone TwEQ for even when you are not using the Muff’n.
