@barry
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Simply reverse the yellow and white wires on both the IN and OUT sections of the main board. These are the pads labeled T and G.
I realize the image you have shows it the other way but when that 4.5 revision was made I did not realize that the T pad and G pad were flipped from all previous versions. (I will update that).
So by reversing both the IN and Out wiring on the main board you will end up with the BI and BO from the 3PDT wiring board (yellow wires) connected to the respective T white pads on the main board. Then that will leave you the white wires coming from Jack sleeves going to the G pads in the respective section.
So it will look more like this one:
That should do it.
You need a germanium diode at least that has the proper forward voltage as a 1N34A
I sell D9E in my shop but note they are Russian so all Russian germanium diodes have a reverse orientation to 1N34A.
As for capacitors as long as you are not changing the value and that they fit properly that is not an issue.
The actual amplifier schematic indicates it should be 3.9k. I would use 3.9k.
You may use a socket and try either.
Make sure you are posting direct links to your photos or just upload them here use the photo icon.
For example, this is just a tiny portion of the huge link you tried to use
“https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ADCreHcFZcLwJUU7hsbLXQqb9P3P…..
That is not a direct photo link but a link to google hosting.That is a super cute, and super well built chorus Stefanie!
The setting you are using almost sounds like a harpsichord.
Thank you for sharing.
NostalgiTone 60’s Video Part 2
This video focuses on the Tremolo Kill switch, tone enhancement and Drive circuit.
Everything disappeared from 5 weeks ago to Oct 31st.
Trust me it is not the kind of thing you want to wake up to when you are trying to run a business.
The entire shop was gone and I had to re-inventory my entire stock among many anxiety filled scenarios.
That said it could have been much worse if I hadn’t made that backup as recently as I did.
I cannot trace wiring from the photo.
That said the first troubleshooting item might be to re-flow all of your on-board and off-board solder joints. 70% of the time a bad solder joint is the issue. Just hold your iron tip on each joint to reheat and re-flow the solder while keeping some extra solder handy in case it is needed. Make sure any bare back pots are shielded against the back of the board. Triple check your wiring.
Typically when overall volume has increased dramatically it is because of an incorrect resistor value.
Likewise when this happens noise is also increased.
I would check each resistor by color band one at a time.
I cannot easily distinguish colors from your photo but for starters R3 does not appear to be correct.
The best way to make any pedal bass-friendly is to use a Paramix.
There are videos showing people using the phase 90 with bass stock. If you have a Paramix you can dial in any amount of bottom end you need to any circuit, or circuits within its loop.
You can try changing the capacitor values as well. I have never tried personally to see how it would work for the Dr. Phybes.
This would help you identify the issue by location quickly as well as being a valuable tool for future projects.
Update: That is a typo. T1 is definitely to bias Q4.
FYI The forum is searchable. You have to do it from the top level.
https://guitarpcb.com/community/
