Home GuitarPCB Forum GuitarPCB Build Support Help with Sriracha fuzz

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    I’m trying to build a Sriracha 4.5 but its mute when I hit the switch.  I saw a similar forum post but near as I can tell I don’t have the same issue as that builder.  I’d very much appreciate any debugging suggestions!

    I took it out of the enclosure to try and take better photos but (apologies) its still sort of a mess.


    I was trying to wire it according to this but with a red led instead of the green:

    Thanks in advance – happy to provide more pictures if someone can describe what they need to see.


    Ryan your photos didn’t post. Before you repost gather up the voltage info that we need according to the Crash Course Guide page 8 on troubleshooting.


    Make sure you are posting direct links to your photos or just upload them here use the photo icon.
    For example, this is just a tiny portion of the huge link you tried to use
    That is not a direct photo link but a link to google hosting.


    Sorry about the previous images.  Let me try again.


    Main board:

    Another angle:

    And backside:


    Not sure exactly where you need voltage info from:



    Here is what I tried to check so far:

    I went through all the resistors and matched the value on the Bill of Materials against the color bands on your common resistor chart and against what I have soldered in each position.   I think all the resistors are the correct value and in the correct location.

    I double checked the 5 box-like capacitors.  I think each of those is correct.  These don’t have an orientation – right?

    I double checked the 3 cylindrical capacitors – I correct values are in the correct location AND each has the white strip on the negative side.

    I checked that Q1, Q2 and Q4 have the flat side up and Q3 has the flat side down.  I took a little pliers and made sure each leg was fully inserted in the sockets.

    I checked that the pots on the back are in the correct position.  Each pot has the plastic cover on it – meaning the pot backs aren’t causing a short.

    I’m not entirely sure I installed the trimmer pot correctly.  It had one flat side so I assumed that should be horizontal at the top.

    I double checked that the stripe on D2 diode was on the left.


    Are the expected voltages online somewhere?  I’m happy to check if someone can point me at where to look


    Simply reverse the yellow and white wires on both the IN and OUT sections of the main board. These are the pads labeled T and G.

    I realize the image you have shows it the other way but when that 4.5 revision was made I did not realize that the T pad and G pad were flipped from all previous versions. (I will update that).

    So by reversing both the IN and Out wiring on the main board you will end up with the BI and BO from the 3PDT wiring board (yellow wires) connected to the respective T white pads on the main board. Then that will leave you the white wires coming from Jack sleeves going to the G pads in the respective section.

    So it will look more like this one:

    That should do it.


    Awesome.  I’ll give that a try and let you know.  Thanks!


    I switched the wires as you suggested and it works!

    How do you like to set the knobs on the potentiometers?  I loosened the set screw until it was just a light friction fit and then turned them each counter clockwise until the pot stopped and then let the knob slip until the line was at 12 oclock position and then tightened the set screw.  Is that what you do?  Where do you like the line on the knob to point for the zero position?

    Now I get to do the “fun” part and design a face plate.   Thanks for the help!




    I am glad you have that sorted out and are enjoying the circuit now.

    How do you like to set the knobs on the potentiometers?

    There is a tool for that if you are interested:



    While most folks will use the traditional method of setting knobs at zero when the pot is turned fully CCW, there is another method that may be useful.

    Start with the knobs at zero with pots turned CCW.  Then adjust all pots to the preferred normal playing  position. Without turning the pots any further, carefully remove the knobs and reinstall them to the noon, 12 0’clock position.  Now, when all the pots are pointing to noon, you have your preferred settings. If a knob is not at noon, it will be obvious and need to be adjusted back to 12 o’clock.

    This is handy if you are moving the pedals or pedal board and the knobs get bounced out of position.  Any knob that is not pointing at noon will need to be readjusted.

    I hope this helps.

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