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BarryKeymasterI am glad to see these these starting to show up in the “show off” section. That makes two finished builds so far, and they both look fantastic professionally done.
Thank you for sharing.
BarryKeymasterThat looks wonderful!
Thanks for sharing.
BarryKeymasterNoted and updated. Thank you.
BarryKeymasterFirst make sure the Volume pot (A25K) on the Tremolo is turned up past noon.
Since the Kill switch LED is part of the actual tremolo circuit the first thing I would question is the common anode connection. That should be a single, bi-color, common anode, LED. The hole pads are sized for a single lead in the center (anode) pad.
Also one side of the switch will not produce a tremolo sound as it is the kill side. But what you would notice, especially with the Tremolo Volume turned up, is a big difference in boost when engaging the Tremolo with the 3PDT foot switch.
BarryKeymasterThe 9v pad that you are currently connected to looks burnt out.

You can test to see if you are getting 9v at the R27 pad right next to it (see photo). Also check that you are getting voltage to Pin 1 of the IC Chips.
I would try connecting it to the other 9v pad if that is the issue.
BarryKeymasterI suggest using the MKC within its intended range first. Our circuit offers mods that are being used in the demo you posted above. I see and hear that he is using the Ultra Gain Mod (potentiometer) half way between stock and the hotter Ultra Gain value throughout the entire video. He then cranks it even further at the end. I do hear unnatural tones because he is indeed using the ultra gain mod (an “always on” potentiometer) in tandem with turning up the Gain pot. That is why it is breaking up. The mods are intended for experimentation beyond the original circuit.
If that is not appealing, then I would limit those options to within your needs. The purpose of his video was likely to explore how far he can go with those mod options and that person probably found them pleasing to his ear.
The ultra gain mod he is using is done with a potentiometer on the lower right so his is always on. If he removed it, then it will not clip. He was certainly pushing his to extremes with both mod and gain pot.
So be sure of your gain resistor value, mod values, or keep it stock, if you do not want added clipping to any degree.
Also use the parallel potentiometer more in step with the Gain.
When modding you would have to find your happy values from within to work that are best for you.
BarryKeymasterRecheck your resistor values by color code.
Bass boost does not technically boost bass. It only allows more bass frequency range through the circuit. If one of your resistor values is incorrect that affects the overall gain of the circuit then the extra bass frequency is likely just making it sound worse. Also do not test without clipping diodes in circuit.
With thousands sold, and many build posts over the last 13 years, I have never heard this particular issue. That leads me to one, or both of those.
BarryKeymaster
I am not sure of the image above will size correctly when downloading. If not the build document has been updated.
Be sure to refresh so as you do not get a cached version.
BarryKeymasterwhat hammond box is used for this project. i didnt c it listed?
If you are referring to the picture directly above, it looks like a 1590BB. It combines different individual PCBs into a combo which are not always my PCBs. That is why it is not listed.
To find out more about creating combos go to the Guides Page and scroll down for the guide.
……………………………………………………………………………
If you are referring my NostalgiTone 70’s, it is listed under the SALE section, and now a brand new NostalgiTone Products section of the main Shop Page with all the pertinent details in the build document.
Since this page is an AD that I use on other forms of social media to promote my new NostalgiTone project, for clarity, this is what is listed on my site: NosatalgiTone 70’s, which can do Judas Priest tones, Sabbath tones, as well as Neil Young “Rust” tones, and powerful clean tones, with its unique TWEED section, and a whole lot more.
BarryKeymasterReverse the 2 blue wires at the OUT Jack.
I think that is it?
Your Main board OUT G pad (blue wire) should go to the Jack Sleeve (Ground) where you currently have the blue (audio wire) connected. So if you just reverse them at the jack you should be fine. I am pretty sure the stereo In jack is wired correctly.

Needs to be like this.
Not all jacks are the same orientation so you just need to recognize the center hole is Sleeve (ground) and the other one is Tip.


BarryKeymasterInteresting. That gave me an idea for another demo.
It was a great privilege to meet the guitar players of Judas Priest (among others) during the British Steel and Point of Entry tours. Attending shows featuring bands like Def Leppard, Scorpions, and Priest—or alternatively Iron Maiden, Whitesnake, and Priest—for just $10 per ticket was an incredible experience. Following them around was truly worthwhile. During this time, I learned that many of them incorporated Rangemaster circuits into their amps to attain the N.W.O.B.H.M. crunch without the excessively loud volumes.
New video with Judas Priest style tones.
BarryKeymasterA new video with Sabbath style tones.
BarryKeymasterDimensions are on the first page:
https://guitarpcb.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/BD_MoRC.pdf
BarryKeymasterYour blue O wire from the 3PDT is going to Jack Sleeve and not Tip. It needs to go to Tip. so switch the wires at the Jack.
I cannot see well enough to tell if you did the same on the In Jack.

BarryKeymasterThat is a thing of beauty and I am glad you are enjoying it.
One of the many things I paid attention to in developing a combo pedal that each of the three circuits would play well with each other. I put a lot of time, experimentation, and thought into that. Thank you for noticing and posting.
BarryKeymasterI am glad you have that sorted out and are enjoying the circuit now.
How do you like to set the knobs on the potentiometers?
There is a tool for that if you are interested:
BarryKeymasterBe sure you are biasing Q4 with the Q4 TR4. I say this since Q5 is literally right beside the TR4 Trimmer.
It is an easy mistake to make.
If that is not it then I suggest trying another JFET.
It may be prudent to verify all of your resistor values by color band. You can try a different type of JFET like J201, J113, MPF102, 2N5485 etc. which all have the same orientation. Also how does it sound as it is? Do you notice a difference in sound with the trimmer adjusted from CW to Center to CCW?
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