@barry
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D1 is in the correct orientation for v4 of the board.
I am looking hard at some of the solder pads that seem open. You may want to reflow your solder joints.
For example:
Also remove the wire from the inside of the Jack so your plug is not going to hit it when inserted.
Also two different Red Wires may be damaged depending on how many strands?
The problem is likely with your tester.
I only recommend a PEAK Atlas at the very least.
If they are purchased from me I batch test all of my JFETs before selling them. In a quality tester mine will read correctly 100% of the time. Further, test mine in circuit and you will find it operates correctly.
Cheap testers are completely unreliable.
D3 you are using a Russian diode so it is in backwards. All Russian germanium diodes are opposite orientation.
The old site was broken without warning. I cannot access it either. The etched boards are from 2009 – 2012.
It will take some time to try and track this down hopefully from old notes on paper.
If you need the tone pot all the way up I would suggest it would be worth going over for an incorrect resistor or cap value first.
I realize everything is subjective but I would not release a circuit without testing it fully, including the tone control and I did not find it “dark” or feel a need to turn the potentiometer up fully to make it merely adequate.
Feel free to post it here so we can have a look before modding it.
Otherwise, focus here and make sure R values are actually R values and not K values by accident, and let us know if you made any substitutions including the pot taper.
This is not a GuitarPCB kit.
It would be best if you went here for proper support:
https://www.musikding.rocks/forum/?l=2
I would reflow your solder joints. All of them.
Also, some pads are soldered to others beside them.
Re-flow on-board and off-board connections. It only takes a few minutes and often corrects a bad solder joint.
“Now I just have to try and control the buzz a bit…” ????
Test the circuit with a battery to rule out a lot of potential problems.
If the noise disappears when using a battery then you know where to look.
When there is no bypass that means something is wrong between Input Jack -> 3PDT -> Output Jack. That is what you have to sort out first and foremost until you get bypass. Likely when Bypass is sorted out the pedal engaged will also work. Typically it is the wiring but could also be bad jacks or foot switch.
