@barry
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No, the Bonamassa Germanium are PNP. The BC108 transistors are NPN.
PNP = Positive Ground and NPN means Negative Ground.
The way we get around this with our traditional Fuzz PCBs is to incorporate a charge pump into the design so we can still use Germanium PNP in a Negative Ground circuit without affecting the tone.
That is why you can use Germanium transistors with our PURP, PUFF, PUTB etc.. and still use a Negative Ground power supply.
An incorrect resistor value, cold joint, or solder bridge?
You have to look at it as “whatever could have possibly gone wrong that is not due to the design of the circuit.”
An audio probe would be very handy to trace the circuit to the point where a volume jump occurs identifying where to look.
Here it is Myton Blonde. It is a very simple circuit but requires biasing the drain of all 3 JFETs to 4.5v to 5.5v to get it to work correctly. You can use MPF102, J201, 2N5457, J113 all with the same orientation but they must be genuine.
For very old etched boards, or first version fabricated follow this link: YUMPU
It does require free registration. It will ask if you want a Free trial when downloading, just click NO. Then download.
This information is now available on the Guides Page if you scroll down past the listed Build Documents for future reference.
This always works for me when I am being cheap, and in a hurry, but want it to look great.
Gimp and Inkscape are very robust free alternatives but have a learning curve. Plenty of YouTube tutorials.
A couple people had problems with the ink not curing enough before adding the Armor All silicon coating (I never had an issue) but if that’s the case you could just as easily spray a thin coat of lacquer. Just follow my instructions in the video.
That is not a direct link:
It will not post here because of that. People can only follow the link to view.
Use only post this portion of your link or upload your image with the Image Icon in the message bar.
If I just post that direct link by itself without the extra gook provided by your photo host it looks like this below:
Alternatively you may use my host and just upload the photo and share it with the Photo Icon (easy way).
or from the main build document:
If you decide that you don’t want an external switch and require just one frequency range, don’t install sockets for C9 and C9A and place a jumper between pads 2 & 3 of SW2. This will leave you C8 and C8A to fine tune the frequency sweep of the filter.
You can then refer to the schematic image of SW2. It switches between C8 + C8a to C9 +C9a. Unless you do what is suggested above.
Did you check out all three guides listed on the SHOP page:
Building the Super Modded MoWah Story by Wilkie1
I believe the Advanced Build Document pages 3 – 4 answers your questions.
For your Avatar you can upload a photo after clicking on your current Avatar, then click Profile, then click change profile photo.
As for uploading photos you either need a direct link which many photo hosts do not support because they want you to come to their site first to get more subscribers. If they have a direct link though you can use that.
Alternatively use the Photo Icon in the message bar and upload it:
Hi Matt,
I’m grateful for your excitement about the NostalgiTone series. The NostalgiTone 80s is definitely in the pipeline.
Our upcoming project is the debut of the NostalgiTone “Artist series” with Voodoo Redux. This release highlights a Foundation Plexi preamp, a Fuzz inspired by the Band of Gypsies era, and an authentic Vibe with order switching (pre or post Fuzz).
Regarding enclosures, while it’s an appealing idea, unfortunately, it’s not feasible at the moment. Currently, I have two combo enclosures with a third coming soon, all with unique drill templates, and plans for continual expansion. Add in the potential for “Singles” to further diversify the selection. Currently, implementing enclosures poses several challenges, including potential conflicts over variety, colors, fonts, personalization, and other factors. As much as I appreciate your enthusiasm, it’s not something I can pursue at this exact moment in time.
While I could potentially provide a single-color, single-font option, even that would require a substantial upfront investment. This is particularly challenging as I would need at least three unique enclosures right from the start. Currently, all available funds are allocated towards development and acquiring components.
In the future I am always open to reconsidering these options. Please feel free to spread the word so I can get to that next logical step.
Barry
Nobody deleted your account. My guess is you set your account up during our site crash and I had to restore the entire site from a backup copy which was 3 weeks previous to that. No fun for anyone.
I’m thrilled to hear about your experience, especially when utilizing all the circuits from both NostalgiTone products.
The possibilities are endless.
Starting with the Rangemaster Boost from the NostalgiTone 70s first in your chain is incredibly versatile. It can boost your clean amp tone on its own, or in the configuration you’ve showcased in your photo, it becomes a tool to enhance any of the three “Foundation” amplifier tones found in the NostalgiTone series: 70s Tweed, 70s British, or 60s Overdrive (Bluesbreaker).
The Tremolo Buffer circuit seamlessly complements all five of the previous circuits in this configuration. Moreover, integrating the Tremolo LFO via the Kill switch allows you to incorporate Tremolo effects alongside all three foundation amp tones. 60s Overdrive (Bluesbreaker), 70s Tweed, and 70s British.
Additionally, beyond the evident tandem applications, experiment with connecting these pedals into the Return of your amp loop. This removes the always-in-series preamp from your amplifier, providing the pure tone of the three available “Foundation” preamp tones directly to your amp’s power amp. Typically, you’ll need to engage one of those base preamps while incorporating other effects. Success varies based on the amplifier used.
Lastly, the convenience of needing only three cables for a total of six circuits (including three “Holy Grail” preamps) contributes to the overall enhancement of your tone while remaining all analog in design.
I appreciate your post and recognizing the careful thought and planning that goes into these projects.
“When doing the UV file, it’s asking if I have data in the color layer, white layer and gloss layer. This is my first UV file, I don’t know what to answer”
Since it is black UV print (going on a light color enclosure) in this case you have data in the color layer, nothing else.
Everything is explained on this link:
https://www.taydaelectronics.com/hardware/enclosures/enclosure-uv-printing-service.html
The reason for a white layer is because you cannot print Red, or Blue on a black enclosure. It will not show up without a white layer first when choosing to print colors on a dark enclosure.
If you pick a lighter enclosure then Black UV is simply a color layer and nothing else is needed.
Excellent job!
I’m eager to learn about your experience with how the three circuits complement each other. While you’re at it, could you also test these three circuits alongside the ones available in the NostalgiTone 60’s you built? Yes, they’re all designed to work seamlessly together – I made sure of that. Looking forward to hearing your thoughts!
I updated this build with a Video Demo courtesy of Dave Raehn.
This was the GuitarPCB.com combo contest winner from 2011.
Back in the day when I used to hand etch, and hand drill every single PCB.
