@barry
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Very nice and thanks for sharing.
I do stuff like that too.
I have a Muff which is mostly a testing ground.
Hey Bradley, your feedback is greatly appreciated, and I’m thrilled to hear that you’re impressed with the new NostalgiTone series. Crafting these circuits has been a labor of love, and I’ve spared no effort in ensuring that each one stands out as the pinnacle of its genre or artist representation.
@ Jeff24
Thanks for that input. That went right over my head. You are correct.
What would happen there is that it would work in reverse so when he is turning the volume up he is actually turning it down. I am not sure how his desoldering is but you could probably just leave it that way and find a nice spot in the rotation and just leave it like that since you are not going to be messing with it once you find the right volume.
There is a silkscreened (1) as well as a square pad on the PCB that indicates the lug number (1) of the potentiometer for the correct orientation.
I noticed that you do not have a CLR current limiting resistor on the 3PDT wiring board.
That will not cause it not to work but it will blow out your LED. You need a resistor of any value between 2k and 4.7k
You installed it on the main board but since you chose to mount the LED on the wiring board and not the main board (This is an option for builders) you must have a CLR on the wiring board. If you have another resistor you can leave the one on the main board alone.
As for it not working I suggest that you re-flow the entire project by reheating the pads and make sure you have good solder joints.
If you look at the photo these solder joints look dull and dry. Try reheating them for just a moment to reflow the solder and add a tiny bit of extra solder as needed. Also it looks like there is no solder in the middle pad of the Pot which is a very likely suspect. Reflow all of those.
Be careful not to burn out the pads or wiring. It looks like the heat is pretty high or you are not using a conical tip.
In this image it looks like the solder is just sitting on the potentiometer leads and not touching the pad. The solder needs to flow into the pads and be secure to the leads. A simple reflow with just a tiny bit of added solder will fix that quickly.
6.35mm 1/4″ Enclosed Jack
Use this:
https://www.taydaelectronics.com/6-35mm-1-4-stereo-insulated-switched-socket-jack-pcb.html
Yeah Billy, you should. It really is a great sounding combo!!!
Billy ordered his. He should have it in a week since he is on the other side of the pond.
GuitarPCB legacy PCBs as well as wiring boards all have multiple pads for connecting extra power and ground.
I would also encourage you to read the Combo Build Guide which is located on our Guides Page (see top menu bar)
It looks to me like a jumper is needed between the 2 empty pads on either side of C10.
At a glance it just connects the traces from the CLR R31 to the Anode of the status LED if you decide to use the on-board LED location. Nothing else is affected.
Great work! If you enjoy experimenting with those gated fuzz tones, you might consider adding a small knob to the side wall. Alternatively, you could put the two values you like best on a switch to save even more space.
The Bass control really makes this Fuzz versatile.
