@barry
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Nice!
I’ve dedicated considerable thought to these NostalgiTone ventures, often focusing on elements I felt would be overlooked. It is nice to hear some appreciation for those efforts.
I’ll directly post the photos here for you, as more people are likely to take a look if they don’t have to leave the page.
I do not have time to go over this so hopefully someone else will be able to chime in.
Upon quick inspection, I see that using capacitors of incorrect sizes for the PCB could potentially strain the solder joints. (Use caps with 5mm spread) Consequently, I would recommend re-flowing them. I can see some questionable joints on the back of the PCB. I also see some potentially burnt pads containing the electrolytics. Electrolytics should be fully inserted and soldered from the opposite side. When they are up off the board like that they can act like antennas creating unwanted noise.
I would also advise using a Digital Multimeter (DMM) to verify the continuity of all off-board wiring and their connections to eliminate any potential wiring issues. I am not able to trace the wires to the jacks and other off-board connections from the provided photos. Triple check all of your off-board wiring and reflow all solder joints as this is likely the culprit.
Furthermore, some of the off-board wiring appears suspect. I suggest inserting the wire through the pads until it sits flush with the PVC and then soldering from the opposite side to prevent exposed wire.
There are no issues with the PCB and has been a fairly popular build.
In an effort to help these images show some of the suspect joints I am referring to. Many of the pads do not have solder in them. They should be filled with solder just enough to leave a little hershey kiss for a solder joint.
The most common mistake I make is failing to ensure that every single nut and washer is removed from all pots, 3PDTs, and switches. Or forgetting to remove all of the metal tabs from the pots. There’s nothing more frustrating than getting everything set up and then discovering that a nut or tab is preventing the board from being tightened down properly.
I also utilize a Hobby Tool to maneuver things around in tight spots, and I loosely fit the LEDs, only bending the very ends of the leads to prevent them from slipping through. I solder the LEDs in place after everything is correctly fitted.
Forget about it.
But don’t overlook the suggestion to take off the plastic backs from the (3-in-a-row) pots for the Vibe section.
Use some non-conductive material to prevent the backs of the pots from touching the solder side. This will make it easier to fit the pots into the drill holes of the enclosure. Remember, it’s not the sides of the pots that need protection, only the backs.
Small pedal bumpers would suffice, or alternatively, consider using some 3M cushioned stickies, etc.
I’m having trouble following.
I quickly visited the Tayda drill link via the SHOP page for the Voodoo to inspect for any potential errors, but there is a drill hole above the foot switch for the fuzz as there should be.
Here’s the link from the SHOP page where you can purchase the Voodoo board:
https://drill.taydakits.com/box-designs/new?public_key=K1NFc2EwekYvQzZOdy9aVFNmUDNIUT09Cg==
This screenshot depicts the drill template directly sourced from the Tayda website using the link provided on the Shop page. The only way to alter this is if the User opts to edit it out using the Red X Boxes.
User Editor for the drill template image is shown below. Please note: A Red X will toggle the activation or deactivation of a drill hole.
As far as my video demo the Fuzz LED may not have been activated but as you can see from the Video thumbnail the Fuzz has an LED.
Lastly, upon examining the drill template in the build document, you’ll notice the presence of a Fuzz status LED.
Not sure what you mean by the 9V pad ???
Ensuring continuity with the diagram provided and your DMM is crucial for identifying potential issues.
For instance:
Confirming a shared ground between both of the circuit boards and the power jack.
Validating the audio pathway from the main board to the wiring board and the appropriate input and output jacks.
Also note that while the Continuity chart does not show a 3PDT wiring board the connections are still the same.
So you will need to report on all continuity checks as well as the 9v pad readings.
Not much room for a ribbon cable? Pin header maybe??
You could use either option, actually. There will be enough height difference to accommodate a ribbon cable or you could use a pin header.
Yes, indeed, quite similar, as there’s no need to reinvent the wheel, so to speak.
The “Singles” will be available as I have time and funds to release them. Currently, my focus is on developing a comprehensive dual wiring board that enables you to effortlessly create custom combinations by integrating your preferred “Singles” into a 1590BB enclosure, unlocking a realm of creative possibilities.
Each single PCB “Dual Wiring Board” will feature an option for “order switching,” utilizing a 3PDT switch with a “short shaft” positioned in the middle to avoid interference with the foot switches. Additionally, there will be an option to mount the bypass LEDs lower beside each foot switch.
The orientation of the “short switch” will point to the first effect in the chain.
Something like this:As depicted in the template above, drilling your own 3 or 4 knob layout in either position will be straightforward. If the selected “Singles” PCB necessitates 5 holes, you can easily cut out the 5-hole drill template and position it over the one above where necessary.
HINT: Take advantage of the current discounted prices on “Singles” while they’re available—it’s a perfect opportunity to support New NostalgiTone products and expand your collection!
“Wow! Your British pedal looks absolutely fantastic! \,,/ \,,/
Congrats on the build! And I agree, the British tube tone on that is just awesome!
Thanks for posting.
Well done again! Thank you for sharing.
I’ve compared my standard Rangemaster / OC44 to the NostalgiaTone 70s Boost, and the difference is remarkable. What sets the NostalgiaTone 70s Boost apart is its versatility. With features like adjustable Heat to control the amount of gain or push, and the Range potentiometer that smoothly transitions from Bright to Full Tone, it offers a level of control that the old Rangemaster simply can’t match.
Looks great and thanks for sharing.
Have you watched my video on the main forum page?
Here it is again. It offers an idea as well as shows some handy corner cutters.
Fantastic job once more, and thank you for sharing.
The Tweed undeniably delivers a uniquely classic tone, doesn’t it? I absolutely love it.
Well done and thanks for sharing!
I wonder if a decal setting solution and squeegee would help smooth out air bubbles? I have never worked with vinyl.
We are going to need some updated information to help.
- Do you get sound in bypass?
- Is there any sound at all with Volume turned either way in active mode?
- Are any of the pads burnt out?
- Post complete voltage readings of both Q1 and Q2 (C=, B=, E=) as well as voltage reading at the 9v pad. Place red probe on lead or pad to be tested and black probe on any circuit ground.
- If you changed Pot orientation make sure there is protection from a short on the solder side of PCB.
- Post clear photo of the newly flowed PCB solder side. (If you changed pot orientation bend pot back slowly)
- Post clear photo of solder side of the potentiometer.
- Post photo that best shows off-board wiring connecting In/Out Main board to 3PDT to In/Out Jacks.
Here is the datasheet image for measuring and reporting the correct voltages
Finally you can use this in tandem with your DMM to verify continuity to all pertinent connections making sure you have common grounds between 3PDT and Main board as well as Power. Also between In/Out throughout the path. Since you are not using “star grounding” method some connections do not apply.
For continuity check do this:
You can get it to work with the Mini-Me by adding a Stage 3 Booster for example in series to correct the phase but if you want a true mixing function, phase correction, and 100% Wet you need the Paramix.
https://guitarpcb.com/product/paramix-effects-loop/
