@playsforfun
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You would have to put the Stage 3 in the BnB loop. Best spot might be between PARAMIX OUT and BnB Return. That would provide phase protection no matter what.
I’m definitely building my next Paramix like that.
But do you have power now? My advise is to go back through every step and compare your resistors to a color code chart and recheck all caps to be in there correct positions. Triple check with your DMM that you have continuity where you expect to be. Especially with respect to ground. When you take a break build yourself an audio test probe so you can follow the signal to find the area of concern. Be sure to use a fresh battery as your power source to eliminate any issues caused by a wall wart. Your soldering looks great. Reflow anything suspect, however, but be careful for overheating ICs and Transistors.
Conversely you could get the power going and then post DC voltages from each pin of the ICs and transistors to ground, along with some new pics. Perhaps we can zero in on it. Still build an audio probe.
You want to fiddle? Build a Paramix. You’ll never stop trying stuff. Pointless and needless and basic? No way. First, there is nothing basic about it. I gave a Paramix away once to a guy mostly wanting ABY switchery. He gave it back as too complicated. Definitely not basic. Throw in a BnB and you’ve got texture galore available. There can be a ‘got ya’ if you aren’t a bit careful. Signal phase. In a single chain of effects you can’t tell, but along the way the sinal was amplified by both inverting and non-inverting amps (transistors and op-amps). Phase can be determined by adding up the inverting amps along the path. An odd number will change phase. The Paramix can cure this with the built in phase switch until the BnB. If what you put before the BnB IN ends up out of phase with the Paramix mix at the BnB blend, then it won’t quite sound correct. The BnB doesn’t correct phase. So in pops what everyone should have already. The Stage 3 circuit. It’s seriously, transparently, awesome and will change the phase. Set it for unity gain and use it for a phase switch when need be. In the end, mixing can create phase issues. To be the best pedalboard fiddler, one must be prepared. Happy mixing. Let us know what happens.
These are really cool. We’d love to see gut shots and get some gossip on how you thought through the design to create such functional art. Real nice.
Wow. Such a huge part of GPCB. A friend to many of us. He was overflowing with pedal knowledge and has helped and encouraged so many of us. I’m real glad to have known him and equally glad that his work went into so many of Barry’s circuits that he will never really be gone. It was fun competing for best combo and learning from him at the same time. I’ll continue to think of him from time to time. He’ll always be an inspiration. My thoughts are with the family and close friends. His life should be celebrated. Maybe it’s a good time for a combo competition.
Per, the trimmer will help find just the right spot for best vibe effect. Sorry about the rude poster. We should be family friendly when we post, folks.
Nice Steve. Love the hot and not switch. Probably used a short bat switch for the order switching so your foot doesn’t hit it. I like to put my afterblaster switch right next to the footswitch in combo builds and find the short bat works great. I haven’t tried the T drive yet. I’ll have to give one a go.
Real nice, Bradley. Exceptional inside work. Personally i’d stick with top jacks to save room on the board. Side jack space adds up is all i’m saying. When not using a battery in your build you could choose a smaller in diameter DC jack to make it easier and gain room. I’ve been using Barry’s wire forever. I’d advise anyone to grab some when you can. Pretinned and takes a beating before it starts to unravel when you are trying to get in those hard to see holes. It’s a frustration limiter in a way. Again premo job.
Love the looks. I really like the acrylic over the top. Real slick. Sure I remember. So glad you got everything going. Cheers.
The answer is yes with caveats. Making sure that the Paramix is well tested beforehand goes without saying. Your delay has to be capable of infinite repeats without the original signal being too loud. When the kill switch is engaged it kills the send jack. The II and IO will need continuity through to the summing amp IC1B whether you have an active pedal connected there or not, which of course, you are welcome to do. Basically make repeats and kill the send. The repeats should continue. Keep us in the loop. Ha
Welcome to the forum, John. Great question. Because that sounds like tons of fun. You likely skipped right over the answer because it’s the second half of example #1 on page five of the build doc. You will need to have added the kill switch option as explained on the BD. Again welcome.
Hey Tim, For what you need above, follow the wiring diagram on page 6 of the build doc. Remember it shows pads A B and C connecting to the pot location of the original board. The way it connects might seem curious but follow it. It joins pad C to pot tab 1, pad B to pot tab 2 (mid), and pad A to pot tab 3. The pots themselves wire 1 to 1, 2 to 2, and 3 to 3 no problem. Beyond that make sure to ground the boards and provide the needed 9v and a CLR for the led. That should get you there. Let us know how you make out. Of course check with your DMM to prove the connections shown on the schematic make sense. Cheers.
Right. The way I see it is this. The way you label Attack is the way the order would be looking at the circuit board on the build doc. So if the switch is mounted on board bottom, your order on the label would be correct. The way I see the grunt viewing the circuit board the left connection would be connecting the most capacitance allowing the most bass or (Full). The right hand connection (center pin to right pin) connects the medium amount of capacitance or (Mid). Leaving the non connection to the (high) frequencies. Check me somebody. So I would label my enclosure according to the direction of the switch bat and not the circuit board necessarily. Most mini switches operate so that when the bat is left the connection is to the right. With switch mounted to board bottom my label would go
Attack switch = boost flat cut
Grunt switch = full high mid