[Playsforfun]

AK, If mounting to the circuit board, the switch closet to the edge of the board is Grunt. In the circuit schematic, the Attack option is first in direction of signal flow, followed by Grunt. If wiring the switches between board and switch you can place them anywhere you want on the enclosure. Go crazy. No one will judge. Yes we will.

[Playsforfun]

Yes. That’s the way I understood what you said you wanted. There are several ways to put all that together. All of them sound interesting to me. Nice to see a combo going together. Have fun

[Playsforfun]

For a TwEQ’ed Emexar into a Sho it goes like this

Emexar in to input jack

BnB in to Emexar out

BnB send to TwEQ in

BnB return to TwEQ out

BnB out to 3PDT in

3PDT BI to Sho in

3PDT BO to Sho out

3PDT out to out jack

The BnB works to blend some ‘send and return’ signal to the original signal coming from whatever is connected to the BnB Input. You must know whether the returned signal from whatever is ‘hanging’ off the BnB is in phase with the original signal to have proper sound as the BnB cannot correct phase. The TwEQ does not change phase so you are good this time. You could interchange the TwEQ and Emexar and get almost identical results.

[Playsforfun]

You could likely do it with slightly modified BnB boards but you will need one per piezo as each will need to be buffered separately and then combined together (I think). Each piezo would be able to blend with the magnetic pickup , and thus each other, with any amount you want. Cool subject actually. I spit that out from a quick google search. There may be a simpler way with what Barry has available. Not sure. Good news is there is definitely a build-able circuit but you may have to piece together your own schematic.

I searched again. Here is a good start.

[Playsforfun]

I knew you could do it. Congrats. And you learned some stuff. The problem could easily have been at the jacks. I fancy myself a decent solderer and like to think that I don’t make mistakes. But soldering mistakes are easy to make. Too much solder is probably worse than starving a joint. For cold solder joints (the ones where you think the component or wire is soldered but you can just pull it right out with a little tug.), my top three to pay extra attention to are jacks, pots and to the ground plane of the circuit board. Each takes a little longer to heat to melt the solder properly. Using flux on jacks and pots works wonders. I don’t know how many folks know that the ground points on the circuit board, including all components that go to ground, are mostly attached to a plane of copper sandwiched between the front and back of the board. If you hold the board up to light you can see them. It can take an extra second to heat up all that ground plane to get a good joint. Something to keep in mind. Each of these problems has got me more than just a few times. Again nice job.

ps. Try an Emexar into a second Emexar.

[Playsforfun]

I’ll take a gamble. It’s a ground issue. Something is backwards or touching where it ought not. Trace all the paths that you created carefully. And check that all op amp pins are seated and soldered properly.

[Playsforfun]

Combos certainly rule don’t they? The ideas you keep implementing are just amazing. It’s so easy to get a fantastic sounding combo pedal on your board now. So much wiring gone. Awesome new circuit combinations. I hope this series is taking the internet by storm because it should.

[Playsforfun]

Glad it was so easy, Chris. Your work is really good but it’s bound to happen sooner or later. Enjoy.

[Playsforfun]

Welcome Zelix, You came to the right place. I’ve been here for 10 years now and it’s been fantastic. A great place to learn. Happiness is a warm soldering iron. Don’t forget to make a nice audio probe and maybe a test rig for your troubleshooting. Troubleshooting can be easy with all the right test toys. I’m glad that I learned vero, but Barry’s boards can’t be beat. And the best build documents going are on his site. Tons to learn, I still can’t figure out half the tone circuits out there. I’m always wishing for variable capacitors to be cheap. Best advice is to check thrice. Happy Building.

 

[Playsforfun]

Hey Chris. Using your meter and schematic make sure all your ground connections, on and off board, all have continuity. There are a lot of socketed transistors. It’s important to know the voltages at each leg of each tran along with the input voltage. This is a starting point. Mybud is definitely on to something. I use cheap sockets, cause I’m cheap,  and sometimes have looseness issues. It may be important to share some good pics of your soldering too. Did you test each component before install? Does your meter have a transistor checker? I’m going to go thru all the color bands of the resistors and put a second set of eyes on what I can. You have great photos so far but there are connections we can’t see. BTW Hooray for having an audio probe.

Update: I think you mixed up R27 and R29. That should fix you maybe. I can’t see R1 or R8.

[Playsforfun]

John your voltages are low and should be closer to 9 and 4.5 for VA and VB. Could be a problem. Looks like R28 is correct so thats not the problem. I’m trying to read the color bands to check the resistors but the photo is a bit washed out. Check C9 and C10. If voltages are good and still no wah you could try lowering R17 to 22K. That is the value of an older doc version for the SWAH. Also there was a note on the doc that it could even be lowered to 10K. Lowering will give more sensitivity. I’m sure you know already that a light touch pick won’t get picked up by the effect. So pick hard to get her set up. I’ve made a couple stubborn ones. Once dialed in though very cool.

[Playsforfun]

Hey Todd, sorry for your disenchantment. I’m pretty sure you will get it going any minute with all the knowledge you have gleaned so far. Can’t say much other that there hasn’t been an update. I haven’t built this circuit yet but I am confident that you can go ahead and build the other board. I’ve learned to trust Barry (and the whole team behind him). Since you don’t really need us, I’ll assume you have tested each component thoroughly prior to and after installation into the circuit and have the data sheets for the transistors and IC’s right beside you. I could add that after I became perfect, the following happened to me. There are no witnesses.

Trimpot and several pots didn’t work as they ‘should’

Stray strand of wire making contact where it shouldn’t while in a difficult to see spot

Found cold solder joints on pot lugs

Found unsoldered pad with component leg touching only air

Tested the value of a resistor but then found it soldered in the wrong spot after

Discovered that a wire was omitted completely from my completed build. I know I thought about that one

Discovered the jack, that I meant to tighten back when I was thinking about it, is loose

Food for thought. Hope you find the culprit. Cheers

[Playsforfun]

This is great James. A lot of hard work and detail went into this. Nice job. Combos just get more and more fun.

To design I use vector software on my computer, like Inkscape, and this download of detailed vectors of pedal parts and pieces from Eric. It helps me a lot to make my ideas work.

[Playsforfun]

That’s really nice. These come out so clean. Must sound killer.

[Playsforfun]

Your last question needs answered as you may not get the 1/2 volume result you seek with just a 50k resistor set before the output. The volume works as a voltage divider and not as a variable resistor. With the voltage divider there is 2nd resistor to ground. The signal remaining is a calculation between the two resistors and comes from the point where the two resistors junction. And the pot mimics this and has resistance on each side of the 2nd lug and 1 side goes to ground. So 2 50K resistors used together as a divider will give you half of the signal. A trimpot swap takes care of all that technical stuff. Just wanted to make sure it was clear. Its worth googling the calculation and keeping note of it for reference. If you just misstated above or already know this, disregard.

[Playsforfun]

Hello Maxwell. Your drawing will work as drawn. I would caution the removal of the emexar volume pot though. That would of course allow full volume into the Tweq. For best sound be careful not to overdrive the input of the Tweq by either keeping the volume pot or maybe replace it with a trim pot which can be set, according to the output of the rest of the rig thats before it, to not distort. There is plenty of gain on tap between the 2 circuits. No problem there.

Cheers

[Playsforfun]

Welcome back. Funny graphics. Keep em coming.

[Author]

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