@playsforfun
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I’ve built a few of these and each acted the same. I’ve been known to use cheap parts but I’m sure my circuits are working as intended and don’t expect that anything would have been different if I had made different choices. That said I found the one that I thought I still had and took voltages. They are posted below. Mine are very close to yours, Jeremie. I think you may have recorded IC2 pin 1 and pin 14 reversed. See mine. What I find about this circuit isn’t real different from what I read that I should find about this circuit or very different from what you have said. I find it hard to sync with at times. Like I can’t find a spot on the sensitivity. And when I do I have to play with more pick attack accuracy than I think I actually even have, to keep the wah behaving as I think it should. I think it can be more difficult with vintage spec single coils, which I like. Once I get going it’s ok but I have to say that I believe this swah requires more talent than I have frankly to operate at it’s full potential. That being revealed, I think that you have a working pedal. You have indeed said so. Maybe it’s not what you were expecting. I’m not saying that your playing stinks like mine, I’m just saying that maybe you just haven’t found the sync spot with your rig yet. The bias is probably better left alone. Don’t starve the circuit. Give it plenty of controlled pick attack and you should get some consistent quack. Let us know what you think.
This is fantastic!! I am so happy for GPCB. I started right on this site and learned so much here from all of you guys present and past. Congrats to Barry and family. Wow! Makes me want to build a new pedal.
I have to question D3 placement. It looks backwards to me. If you do change it, I would recommend using sockets if you have them, in order to keep the GE diode from the extreme heat of soldering. From what I can see your values are ok for resistors and caps. I can’t double check Q2 or 3 but your voltages seem off. Posting photos of the soldered side may help. I’ll be able to check voltages on mine shortly and will post.
So the instant feedback is gone? Yes, I meant the internal gain as described on the doc. I’ve scorched plenty of caps like that. Probably not an issue. Are your voltages in line with your old builds? Nothing out of whack?
Have you tried reducing the gain? Also twisting and braiding extra wire shouldn’t be dismissed as a factor. Shielded wire and/or isolated jack for WF mod? Just guessing. Oh and when offboarding the time pot you dont need a wire to lug 3 since it is used as a variable pot. You see they are joined together at the board. You can jumper them at the pot with a piece of cut-off from a component. Likewise remove the lug 3 wires and jumper 2 and 3 together at the pots coming off of the 2KJ and avoid a large complicated loop. Hope any of his helps.
Based on the coupling caps (C1,9,10,12) being 10n and 22n I would say the single NostalgiaTone Compressor is not bass ready. Coupling caps and possibly others (C6, C8, C13) will need adjustment.
I think you are moving out of the analog realm and into digital with the hold down for extra switching. Here is an example of a footswitch off to the side, on a pigtail, instead of toggle switch, as an option.
Nice job. Just a hint for easier and cleaner wiring: ground is ground and can be found all over the schematics and boards usually. For example you could have run a ground wire from DC jack to each audio jack. Then a single ground wire to the FF from one jack. Then a single ground wire from the FF to the 3PDT board. Much less complicated. Another thing I do for easy and neat is to jumper my pot lugs together on the pot when the schematic calls for it. A variable resistor, like the Bias knob for the FF, will usually have lug 3 or lug 1 connected to lug 2. That doesn’t need a wire all the way to the board to achieve. A scrap piece of resistor leg between lugs is all thats necessary. 2 wires to the board and a jumper between lugs instead of three wires to the board. Easier and neater. Less chance of cross-talk as a bonus.
You could skip the 3PDT board and skip bypass and wire a TT to each side of the switch so one of them is always active. And you could have a different color LED to show which. There are more complicated ways. My favorite A/B switch device is the Paramix.
My go to is 3.3K 1/4 watt for a CLR. I find 1.8K (especially) with blue, is way too bright. BTW grounding the input while in bypass isn’t necessary always. It can help with extraneous noises in some cases.
Rick, I notice that your white wires from the in and out jacks (tips), which should be soldered to the 3PDT board I and O, but are going to the shonuf . You have the sleeves of the jacks (ground) going to the in and out pads of the 3PDT. Reconfigure your 3PDT board per build doc. Also it looks like the diodes are backwards. That will matter in this circuit. Take your time. Prove all the continuity that you can with a DMM as related to the build doc after visual inspection. You could even check continuity with an led and a watch battery. You can tape up a quick audio probe together with a capacitor and an instrument cord. Example: Does ground show up at all the points that it should? Sometimes my troubleshooting takes longer than the rest of the build. But I get smarter from it every time. Good luck.
Well you could turn it into this:
which just switches in and out the variable gain with the same values as above. Given that you have the gain calculation on the build doc, you can probably find just the right gain value for you by trying combinations of pots and resistors to ground. C4 was omitted for convenience.
Welcome Michael68. Glad to help. So in a nut shell what is going on in this case is that the gain of the second half of the Opamp is set by the relationship of the values of R7 and R8. C4 is provided for a bit of frequency manipulation fun with R8. The math formula is provided for the gain calculation. Keep note of it for the next however many years you plan to build these circuits. It’s important. Keeping it simple today, if you keep R8 and C4 as is, and increase the value of R7 you will increase the gain. Using the example given for increasing R7 to 220K for a gain of 3.2, what if you substituted that 220K for a 250K pot used as a variable resistor. So if you wire the pot with lugs 1 and 2 soldered to the pads for R7, you will create a variable gain control. Lug 3 can be connected to lug 2 on the pot. Let us know how you like it. Cheers
Let me add to Barry that this build doc has several mistakes in it, making the modifications hard to follow, so an update would be truly appreciated.
