@playsforfun
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Hey GS. For that, just solder your in and out signal wires, or the hot wires from the jacks, to the upper left and right corners of the open switch pads instead of the in and out pads. That will skip the switch. So as long as you have DC to the pedal it will be on. Cheers.
Happy that your first experience was a successful one. Great looking work as well. That tonebender does not disappoint. Enjoy, Bwayno.
Felix, I am not any electronics authority but here are a few opinions that may help. I checked the resistors and capacitors that I could see, and they all look to be correct. Your soldering looks good too. Small clean-ups, afterward, might be helpful (or at least a good habit). R32 can be ignored since the LED pads won’t be used. ‘The blob’ is necessary if you indeed broke the trace between speed pot pad 2 and R24. In this case I would make sure that connection is beautiful and permanent as long as there is no chance of a short to the ground plane below. A tiny piece of cut off lead soldered very carefully between the two works well. Tweezers will be necessary. But I would choose the back side to do it on because it is unscarred back there, with less chance of unwanted short circuits when completed. If you choose that, then clean up the front to eliminate problems with possible exposed ground plane shorts. There are some components I can’t see well enough to identify. I read your post about R31 change-out. The latest build doc BOM says 10 ohms but the finished board shows a 47 ohm resistor used. Either way it is a small amount and works to adjust the 9volts down a slight bit, from what I can tell, before it goes to each transistor as ‘VB’. On your board the R31 color bands are chipped and shaded, but I suspect is still a wrong value. You would have to de-solder and pull up a leg to measure properly. I believe your transistor voltages to be way off. As for chipped resistors, I’ve had problems before with their metal shell touching something else metal and causing crackling and mutes. Make sure that doesn’t happen to you here. You’ve done a great job so the fix will be easy once found. Side note: make a troubleshooting probe to save yourself a lot of time. If you are anything like me you will continue to make mistakes. It’s normal. But in some cases we can prepare for it. Hope some of this helps.
You could try something like this. https://guitarpcb.webs.com/apps/forums/topics/show/13394020
You are not mistaken about that. But: Check the input jack wiring. The blue wire should go to the tip. Do you need a stereo jack? Instead of ignoring solder blobs, clean them up and make sure no slag is making a solder bridge anywhere. A toothpick can be a useful tool. Also cheap glue brushes work great to clean up solder splash. I see some questionable areas including the out pads. Lastly, but should have been first is to provide clear pics of BOTH sides of the board and ALL connections.
Beautiful work Chris. I love these two circuits together as well. Interesting chorus mod. BTW a gel type super glue works great. I populate the led in the board but I bend over a leg so it won’t fall out temporarily. Once I’m done messing with the board(s) and any wiring around them, I set the led with ca glue and solder it, almost last. I have fewer probs this way. Cheers
I should add a reminder to take full advantage of the A and B pads to try different diode arrangements and have many flavors of clipping that can be selectable via switches or rotary knobs with Barry’s mod boards, like the DPDT Wiring Board or the Roto-Tone Deluxe. Cheers
Pedalstrong, You have seen several examples of using the Tone Tweq in combo builds, mainly inserting the TT after the drive or even to substitute it for other onboard tone circuits. That kind of information in clear direction and pictures is what always makes GuitarPCB the best, BTW. I’m hearing you say that you want it before the drive to take advantage of the extra push it can give the AEON. That’s a great idea and you asked for the best way to do it. Well, if making a combo pedal is what you are doing, then simply wire the TT out pad to the AEON in pad for an always on situation, with a single footswitch that will activate or bypass both circuits at the same time. Don’t forget to add power and ground to each. That would be a great pedal. The TT has so many uses and fits just about anywhere, including standing vertical with no problem. Don’t forget to show it off when you are complete.
Yes, but you have choices there, Pedalstrong. Firstly, if you wanted to be able to bypass the TT, you would run through a 3PDT footswitch and not directly from board to board. If you wanted it as an always on EQ then you still have choices. You could skip the Aeon volume and wire the TT input to Aeon volume pin 3 as the output. This will give you full volume from the drive into the TT. Provided the total Aeon gain isn’t too much for the Tone Tweq to handle, you would then use the volume of the Tone Tweq to control the output level of the pedal. You could also keep the Aeon volume, if you wish, and use the out pad as normal. You could also set a trimmer instead of the Aeon volume to control the input to the Tone Tweq, thereby setting it at a predetermined level before closing up the pedal.
Sure Wes. Barry has all those. Do him a favor and list them here so that he can help you out. I’ve got a few myself.
I hadn’t considered substituting trimmers actually. I’ll try that and share the results unless someone beats me to it. Thanks wilkie1.
Hey if you get another day off check out the Knowledge Database.
You could spend days there trying to take in all the info available. Snoop around. That’s what its there for. Find a search box and make a topic search, for example D’lay. You will come across asked and answered questions, a look at other previous builds, and tons of tidbits of information from some of the pros, past and present. Invaluable. Thumb through the gallery for inspiration. I understand what you are saying about the build documents, but I would agree with those that believe that the build doc should focus on getting the basics down, keeping a great hobby from getting too complicated too soon. They are a work in perpetual progress and far superior to any I’ve seen. I print out the version for my build and keep them. I make notes all over them that I can refer to. You can always ask questions in the forum for specific goals for your builds.
Hey Big O. I’m going say that it’s all about fun and that looks like a lot of fun. Also a perfect example of a real nice l looking pedal. Well done.
Yes. Just follow the instructions as laid out and you will be all set. Very complicated circuit all in all. Enjoy.
Hey M. No you are not stuck. I’m not sure why you would want to power down the tap tempo board entirely, so I’m assuming we are talking only about the tempo itself. All you have to do is ignore the tap tempo. A slight tweak of the time knob will disengage the tempo you have tapped in and the D’lay will use the tempo that relates to the rotation position of the pot (knob).
And yes, pigtailed mods are very possible. And fun. Even tap tempo. Enjoy!
Any more gain and you might have to run a fan through there to control the heat. Excellent work Chris.
