@playsforfun
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All the values that I can see look to be correct. To help any further we need clear photos of the board underside and all off board wiring, accompanied by voltages readings of input voltage and from pins of the mosfets and the IC. Should be standard for any support post. Check out Barry’s Crash Course on the Guides page.
Hey John. Welcome. You have a great version. The version doesn’t matter. Only difference is voltage protection. If I hear you right you have a C1K pot installed for the Fuzz control and you are getting ‘full fuzz’. Short of asking for the full set of photos and voltages to inspect your build inside and out, I would say you are getting the full capability of the circuit. Not all pots are meant to be maxed and designers have to use components that you can find and buy easily in their designs. 1K of resistance is very small and so the taper isn’t much to begin with. C taper seams to be the way to go here. Maybe you can squeeze more from the fuzz if you back off on TR1. What happens if you crank the fuzz to 3 o’clock and bring up the gain trimmer to whats ‘necessary’? Does it just sputter and cut out and provide no satisfaction? Or are we getting somewhere better? You may already be getting all she’s got. Don’t forget to always use a good battery for power when testing, set up and troubleshooting.
I use those guys for my amp building and maintenance projects. For the taper its usually best to stick with what the schematic says unless it just seems wrong for you in use. Of course, either choice will get you the same spectrum of result. Have fun.
Glad we could help. Up front I’m not the best with tone circuits. The only change in V2 was to add a voltage protection diode. This tone circuit is very similar to famous amp circuits. It doesn’t and can’t add treble or bass. Only lose, as it is a passive circuit. The caps and pot resistances play off each other to a certain degree making the answer to your question complicated but the cap that most affects the highs is C12. It will also play with the upper mids is adjusted. The Tone Stack Calculator by Duncan is worth googling and playing with in an effort to a higher tonal education. Otherwise, as always, Socket and See. Don’t forget to report back.
For me, It’s in the walls. My last house was bad, this one is even worse power is very ‘dirty’. So the filtering provided by a wall wart power supply can’t cut it and some of my pedals whistle something fierce. Even off my pro monster power device. It can make testing pedals pretty interesting and frustrating. If I switch to a battery it goes away. That is provided that my transistors are seated right. Is your noise present even with a battery for power?
I agree with Billy and would usually guess that it is from the power supply. I tested my Black Dog and got the following: Input vdc 8.70. Q1 D 5.70, G 4.68, S 2.97. All were similar with no more than .1 volt diff.
I do this often because it is simple and adds so many possibilities. Just add a pair of mono switched jacks between the output and input of the two drive boards (or 3PDT boards), with the switch portion soldered with a jumper to pass the signal between both when nothing external is plugged in to either jack. Check out the build document for the Paramix and examine the insert in and the insert out jacks in the schematic. With nothing plugged in it is simply a pass through. There are several types of jacks that perform the task. I use the box type alot. The jacks with the purple wire jumper between and the yellow jumper between are the loops.
Hello Vincent. What I read is this. Hope it helps
“Don’t get too hung up on the exact numbers – they’ll change in a second anyway as the device heats or cools. Look for low leakage, and approximately the right gains.
The right *real* gains are from 70 to about 130. Within that range, people report the best sounds. Some people prefer equal gains, others prefer having a lower gain of 70-100 for the first transistor and 90 to 130 for the second.”
Alot of times the led is the reason for the pop. See if it goes away without the led being lit while activating the boost.
No problem. To simplify, just populate the board with R8 and C4 and leave your switch and the pot as is after you confirm they are free of defects. Ultimately you are just replacing R7 with a switch. It selects either unity gain or the gain pot, along with an led to light the way :). A 2-Knob Job board would get the work done nice and neatly.
FYI. If you populated R8 and jumpered C4 you would be following my drawing.
As a note, C4 eliminates bass notes to ground that we can’t hear. R8 at 100K and C4 at 220n will yield a 7 Hz. cutoff frequency.
Enjoy!
I see some stray strands and slag and possible bridge within your soldering. I can’t distinguish your pot wiring to see if it is wired up as a variable resistor, where you would tie lug two with one of the outside lugs. And I wonder what happened to R8. R8 cannot be omitted. If you use my drawing and a footswitch then you will have to find a way to add R8 between the switch and ground as shown(or between the switch and C4 if using C4). With a higher resistance at R7 than R8 there will be gain as per the build doc.
As a note, the build doc references R4 and R5 within the Gain Mods paragraph, but should say R7 and R8. Also the section for R4 refences R1 mistakenly. R1 is necessary.
Yeah I don’t know too many places I could use those knobs but they are perfect there. Nice work all around. Background sweetener. That’s good. That’s what I use it for.
