@cybercow
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Eric – Cool! I’ve been using your first free release for at least a couple years now and have made several of my own additions; building on what you started. I used actual photographs of knobs and other parts and scaled them to the same standards you’ve applied in your illustrations. Mine is nowhere as neatly organized as yours, but the elements are positioned such that each can copied and pasted into a design layout.
Thanks for your continued dedication.
Wilkie – thanks for the clarification and productive efforts on your part. That entire concept may be something Barry might add to his arsenal of Utility PCBs.
Excellent work Wilkie! Do you ever sleep?
These sorts of switching conundrums tend to bust my brain. I usually have to redraw them by hand to understand precisely what they’re doing. So, I have to ask . . . . . (cuz I’m kinda too covered up to draw it out and sort it) . . . .
Is a stompswitch still required in the Easy Ordering PCB? From what I know of the Easy Order board, nothing happens without a switch of some sort. So, it takes two stomps to keep the FX loop in between the two effects?
Russ B. – Barry has some parts here at GuitaPCB. There is also Tayda – but I do NOT trust their active components (BJTs, FETs, or any chips). Tayda branded pots are sub-par IMO too. I only order Alpha pots from Tayda when I order pots from there. StompBoxParts is another good US source. And there’s always the risks encountered with eBay and Amazon. Just check the seller’s rating on any given product when using those two sources. Mouser and Digi-Key are also excellent sources, although they are a bit more expensive and cumbersome to scroll thru their respective menu systems. Good luck!
Oh, and SmallBear will eventually be back on-line once SynthCube has completed their acquisition of SmallBear. Some parts will be discontinued at SmallBear, so read the fine print for each and any part from there when they come back.
Barry – thanks! With the number of mods available, I’m gonna max one out, use trimmers in the mixing and gain section and include PinkJimi’s buffered-tails option. Once done, (it’ll be a while), I’ll show it off in the appropriate forum group.
Wilkie – I have to admit that the more I look at the cleverness of your switch hack, the more elegant it appears. Truly an excellent solution!
Barry – Thanks for all of that. As always your explanations are clear and concise.
To be clear, you’re suggesting I try 68nF in BOTH the C1 & C2 locations? Or just C1? And yes, there will be sockets! 😉
Oh, and here’s an assembled screen shot of the schematic & BOM differences that confused me between the two. (I really should have led with this.)
BlackCat – that toggle (in your link) will work. But if you want it as a stompswitch, use this one.
TBH, I may have over-simplified something that is a bit more complex. Using only switching jacks with an Easy Order Switching board is not straight forward. The FX loop that two simple switching jacks will always follow one of the selected orders using the EOS brd. So while in one state, that FX loop will be in the middle, but when the order gets changed, it will not. I need to put my thinking cap on longer for this one.
A couple years ago, Wilkie posted this nifty little contraption . . . the stomp switch is actually a 4PDT stomp. I’m hoping somewhere in there is a real answer.
A proper pair of ¼” switching jacks should do the trick. I’ve used these from LoveMySwitches successfully.
Note the schematic of switching mechanism of the jack. Use the tip switching to bypass the signal when no pedal is inserted.
Nick – Excellent! With that many clipping options on a single rotary, the only thing I might have done differently is to have arranged the clipping elements so they were louder-ascending order in accordance with the rotary switch – #1 (being the lowest volume & most clipping) to #12 (with the least clipping). Basically, using the measured average Fvd of each clipping combos to set the order on the switch.
All-in-all, quite the varied clipping selection options. Thanks for sharing. Bravo!
The schematics for both versions are identical. You should only need to identify the part IDs by the schematic – using the references in the Tap Tempo build doc too find the insertion points. You may need to use your DMM to dml-check the continuity of the component placements/connections to positively identify the junction of R22 & R9 for the Tap Tempo “V6” connection. And lug #3 of the “Time” pot on the main board should provide access to the “VB_In” point for the other Tap Tempo connection to leverage the existing VB supply to the Tap Tempo board and leave out the regulator on the Tap Tempo board altogether.
If you need more definitive explanation, look for the older version (V2) of the DeLay in the forum document list here: Dlay V2
Good luck and happy building.
Brooks – that should work. That circuit does not provide a CV. Rather it divides what it is given. Roland uses the same topology for some of their expression pedals – except for the switch, and they use a 50K pot on the treadle.
Brooks – kinda, sorta, maybe could use a schematic to see exactly what’s happening with the expression INPUT on that circuit. If it’s expecting a CV and not just an expression pot insertion point, then a simple pot is unlikely to work. If the expression INPUT is supplying any CV voltage, then the 100K pot in your wah shell should work fine.
