@cybercow
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Brooks – In my estimation, those LP filters are to keep the noise down from the delayed signal passing thru the PT2399. So still, I’d not mess with those at all.
However, PinkJimiPhoton wrote up a great tails mod for the D’Lay. I’d check out that post and do some testing/experimenting for injecting a Tone TwEQ at C24, between where the PT2399 Level pot meets up. OR . . . . where the Repeats feedback signal passes thru the trimpot TR1.
Happy building!
Brooks – TBH, I’d not mess around with any of the values around the PT2399. They establish the parameters of the delay – not the tone. Instead, I would add a “Tone TwEQ” circuit after the D’Lay circuit.
George – yes! R2 MUST be 27K. If you put in a 100K at R2, the resultant volume will be very low. I know it’s going to be a PITA to change because the reverb brick is in the way. However, it may easier to strap a 37K resistor in parallel with existing 100K resistor at R2. That would drop the input resistance to the opamp from 100K to 27,007Ω and resolve the issue. You should be able to do that from the component side of the PCB and not have bend (and risk breaking any legs of) the reverb brick. It may not be a pretty fix, but it should work a treat.
But if you can carefully extract that 100K from the R2 position and get in the correct resistor value of 27K in place, all the better.
Good luck!
In a combo build, all bets are off without first isolating the Mini-Me and testing it by itself. There’s an old adage: “A picture is worth a thousand words.” I’m down to about 122 left for the day.
Also, to which version of the Mini-Me are you referring? They’re the same schematic, but different layout and options.
Robert – double-check the values of R4 (33K) and R19 (33K). If they are higher than the designated 33K, that could result in a hotter output. The Mini-Me should be a unity-gain circuit.
At this point, as next steps, I’d un-stuff the guts and examine the solder-side for any solder bridges. Once that is verified, I would apply a signal probe and trace the audio into, thru and out of the main board.
Barry – thanks! And you’re welcome!
For those asking about the test rig . . . . .
Please remember that this forum is primarily about GuitarPCB build support and camaraderie. With that in mind, I’ll tell you.
There are no jumpers really. Just some unused direct access points for sockets. The existing sockets are redundant connection points for ‘In’, ‘Out’, ‘V’ and ‘Gnd’.
About 3½ years ago, I was going to conjure my own testing board/jig and was looking for bits and pieces of schematics from which to compile a comprehensive test rig. But then I bumped into Fuzz Dog who had already done the very thing I had in mind. Before covid hit, getting things from the the UK and elsewhere in the EU was easy. Now it’s stoopid expensive to get things from across the pond. I paid $15 for just the PCB (including shipping back then) and built it out myself. Now the shipping alone is over 25 bux. Hopefully, Barry will eventually acquiesce to designing such a test rig of his own to add to his delightful selection of pedal project boards. You know, for his state-side clientele. 😉
But more importantly, I find it more excitement getting to work with Barry on some of his projects and be (one of) his “Guinea pig” builder(s)/tester(s). I’ve always loved experimenting with circuit bending or just futzing around to find what works best. And Wilkie is always around for questions, answers & ideas also working closely with Barry. I’m sure there are others in the fold, but I’ve yet to identify or meet them.
Oh, and here’s the final photo of the build without any socketed components. I settled on a 1N34A for D3, a 47K for R17 and a pair of matched red LEDs (@ 1.88v Fvd) for D1 & D2. I’m not using R31 or D6 as I will be using one of Barry’s “Variable-Brite” 3PDT Wiring boards for the stomp & bypass LED.
Joe – yes. Matching the silkscreen shapes on the PCB is how they were intended when using the same components in the BOM.
Chris . . . . .
- A DC jack is polarity neutral by itself. How it’s wired determines whether it is negative-center or positive-center. Metal-case DC jacks need not apply – the metal housing always grounds one of the connectors – physically connecting one of the connectors to the enclosure Avoid using metal housed DC jacks.
- See answer #1
- See answer #1
- Yes. Again, see answer #1 – the last sentance.
Jimi – Gawd help us all if you ever get into computer coding. LOL! Excellent dive into a successful circuit hack. Thanks for sharing your cool stuff.
Chuck – I suggest socketing those components you’ve listed try it out. Nothings screams “Look out! Burn-out ahead!” Although I suspect the biasing resistors around Q2 will need some value changes to accommodate the germanium BJT.
Sam – I’m with Chuck on the trimpot sweet-spot. It’s usually about dead-center. It can be tweaked ever so slightly to the ear. To use a 10-turn trimpot there is ideal for dialing in the vibe.
modj – if you want the LED on the main board to ALWAYS indicate the rate, then do wire anything to S4, S5 or S6 on the main board to the daughterboard. Instead run a jumper from S4 to S5 on the main board with D1 in place. It will NOT change color if you use a dual-color LED, but it will always blink with the rate.
modj – that all depends on if you want the Rate Indictor LED cooperate independently of, or in concert with the stompswitch.
If you want the Rate Indicator on all the time, Jumper S5 with S4 – OR S6. Again, depending on whether you use a single color or dual-color LED.
If using a dual-colored LED only as D1 on the main PCB, there no need to put an LED on the 3PDT Wiring daughterboard.
What we don’t know is if you are using single colored LEDs or dual colored LEDs or how exactly you want to use the Rate Indicator LED and/or the bypass LED. Please clarify.
