@cybercow
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Thanks for the kind words folks. Here’s the video demo. Doesn’t say much for my fingering articulation, but the pedal!
Hi Andrew – while I’ve not used the laser version of waterslide decal stock, I do use the inkjet version. I use the waterslide stock available from SmallBear. And yes, I would still anticipate the need to clear-coat the laser decals before soaking them in water. For what it’s worth, here is the video tutorial I used to get up to speed using waterslide decals, and with much success . . . .
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e2X_HL-4F90
Hope this helps
Matt – thanks. I shot the raw video demo yesterday and will get around to editing & posting it soon.
Scott – to be honest, it’s going slow. So many circuits-n-pedals. I feel like a kid in a candy store. Slowly but surely. I’ve got the gear and software to do a demo, just need to finish a few more pedals and set up a video session. Thanks for the nudge.
Florian – some really nice builds there. Including the first one Barry showcased on your behalf. I appreciate your bit about dropping the values of R1, R2, R4 & R8. As I’ve not yet completed my own Sunn-T pedal, (although the PCB is populated, I’ve yet to design the enclosure), I plan to try your mod out by tacking a 300K Ω resistor to R1 & R2 in parallel to drop those to the 56K Ω value and a 33K Ω across R4 & R8 to bring them to 560 Ω. I’ll let my ears decide if they stay. 😉
Criss – not much difference really. I’ve been doing electronics long enough to know that there would not be a significant or audible different between the 12nF & the 15nF or between the 15nF & 22nF – but one might be able to hear the difference between the 12nF & 22nF caps. If you notice in the Muff’N Build Document’s BOM section, there are only two different values used for C10 for any of the 10 different build options available – 3n9F or 4n7F; and with such a small variance between those two values, the audible difference is also insignificant. C10 is also partly responsible for the stock BMP’s “mid-scooped” sound. By increasing C10 to 4 times its normal value, that “scoop” threshold is raised, and coupled with a 25K pot allows the operator to flatten and even “bump” that “scoop”.
Once you start building, I recommend that you socket those components in the BOM that have the largest variances between the different builds. This will allow you to quickly swap out component values to see what differences you can hear and assess for yourself what you want your build to sound like. Experimentation and trial & error are the greatest teachers.
Criss – Mod #3 in the Muff’N Build Doc is the scoop/flat/mid section. It involves replacing the J1 jumper with a 25K pot, replacing R20 with 2K7 resistor and replacing C10 with a 15Nf cap. (The build doc calls for a 12nF, 15nF or 22nF – I went down the middle of that road with the 15nF cap.) I also added a switch to reinstate J1 as a jumper and switch R20 to a 33K resistor – to put the original scoop back in. That’s what the π switch does.
And thanks for the Kudos.
elfanatic – I built an Add Verb just a few weeks ago just as outlined in the Add Verb build document. It works just fine. Barry’s recommendations are sound.
For grins, giggles and a quick little test, temporarily tack a jumper across R7. When the volume pot is turned to zero (fully counter-clockwise, the result should be that pins 7 & 6 of IC1B will be shorted together. When pins 7 & 6 (or pins 2 & 1) are shorted together, the opamp yields “unity gain” by design. The theory and documentation behind these types of opamps states that when pins 7 & 6 are shorted together, the opamp is in “unity gain”. The 6K8 value of R7 is going to provide a minute amount of gain from that opamp stage; but I also believe that the 6K8 value is used to elevate the gain slightly to recover the signal from the previous stage. So, in theory, shunting R7 should lower the output of the final opamp stage.
That is not a normal behavior. After a quick look at the schematic, I’d double-check the value of R7 and ensure that it is a 6K8 and not a 68K ohm value. Hope this helps.
super villain – forgot to post the demo link. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MbkGRIsxdAI