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Viewing 17 posts - 18 through 34 (of 726 total)
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  • in reply to: Bass OD v2 troubleshooting #29010
    Cybercow
    Participant

    Can’t tell where all the wires are going from the photo. And what is that connected to the “D1” point on the 3PDT PCB?

    A fresh photo of things after the wiring correction was made would be helpful too.

    in reply to: 4Track Fuzz issue #28981
    Cybercow
    Participant

    The bypass indicator LED will not have any bearing on the “sound”.

    No idea what kinda “swirling” sound you’ve got, but all fuzzes are going to have some level of a raised noise floor. That’s a given. Can you post an audio or video clip of that sound?

    Cybercow
    Participant

    The first thing I see worth questioning is the orientation of the BJTs. What BJTs are you using?

    I’m unable to make out any of the wiring due to the spaghetti bowl you’ve got there. :O

    But is the input jack tip going directly to the main board input? Double-check the tp/sleeve of the jacks too. Again, the spaghetti makes the wiring difficult to follow.

    in reply to: Paramix Won’t Power Up #28961
    Cybercow
    Participant

    Done? Out? With what are you done? And of what are you out? How do you mean?

    Have you considered using your DMM to work out what is connected to what? Barry showed you how to use it. Have you done that?

    in reply to: Tube Screaming Ultra #28894
    Cybercow
    Participant

    Very nice work!

    in reply to: SS-2 with Afterblaster and clipping options #28880
    Cybercow
    Participant

    Bravo! Nicely done.

    in reply to: Paramix Won’t Power Up #28851
    Cybercow
    Participant

    How about R17? I notice it is NOT populated and it is one of the CLR resistors.

    Also, are you using a common anode LED? A common cathode LED will NOT work.

    in reply to: Paramix Won’t Power Up #28847
    Cybercow
    Participant

    “Nuthin'”? Did you try measuring the voltage across pins #4 & #11 on the TL074? It should be very close to the power supply.

    And please, keep us updated with fresh pictures as you make these changes.

    in reply to: Paramix Won’t Power Up #28837
    Cybercow
    Participant

    Correct. That PCB has two +9V connection points adjacent to one another. Often times, it’s helpful to have more than one +9V connection point. (I often use those 2nd +9V connection points to carry the PS over to other boards in combo builds.) Remove the wire you have going to ground from that pair and move it to one of the provided pair GND points next to the OUT solder points. Barry labels all of the solder points on his PCBs. It’s always good to pay close attention, avoiding such mistakes. 😉

    in reply to: Howling Shiba Deluxe Cocked Wah w/Exp #28830
    Cybercow
    Participant

    Hella nice job on such wildly versatile looking build. So is this basically the “brains” box for which an external expression pedal is the treadle for this mondo wah circuit? Or is this an elaborate cocked wah circuit with an expression pedal option?

    in reply to: Paramix Won’t Power Up #28829
    Cybercow
    Participant

    It looks like the two +9V pads have one red wire and one black (brown?) wire. If the red wire is the +9V and the black (brown?) wire is grounded – there’s the problem. And there is no ground wire connected to the GND pads. Where is the ground connected?

    in reply to: Vibe no phase (solved) #28820
    Cybercow
    Participant

    FWIW, I like to use a multi-run trimpot for chorus, vibe and other such circuits where a single trimpot sets up action. Multi-turn trimpots are easier to dial in an effect.

    Glad you sorted it. Happy building!

    Cybercow
    Participant

    Nice! Fun graphics.

    in reply to: Vibe no phase (solved) #28800
    Cybercow
    Participant

    OK, so your PS distribution is good.

    The next thing to do is connect & fire it up in a way you can access the trimpot inside, put a signal thru it with the pedal engaged. Then with the trimpot set to center, ever so delicately, slowly and in very tiny increments, turn it it to the left to see if the “vibe” starts happening. If you get all the way to left, (again in very tiny increments), and there is still no ‘vibe’, set the trimmer back to center and start, very slowly turning it to the right, (and again in very tiny increments) till you get the ‘vibe’ sound. That trimpot setting is VERY delicate and there is a very narrow sweep point at which it will trigger the ‘vibe’ action. Be patient and delicate with the trimpot setting. The first time I built one, it took me a few minutes to find the sweet spot.

    Let us know what happens after that.

    in reply to: Vibe no phase (solved) #28791
    Cybercow
    Participant

    The Vb will vary depending the setting of TR1.

    To measure the voltages on the ICs, you need to measure at their power supply pins.

    IC1 PS pin = 7

    IC2 PS pin = 4

    IC3 PS pin = 7

    Also, ensure the JFETs are securely seated in the sockets. If they wiggle, they’re likely not going to perform well. I like to gently wrinkle the ends of the legs so they are stiff going into the sockets.

    in reply to: Bi Color LED #28786
    Cybercow
    Participant

    A CLR is needed only on the board to which the LED is physically attached. And the CLR value is entirely up to the builder. The lower the CLR value, the brighter the LED will be. I use anywhere between 2K7 to 12K depending on the specific LED. Typically a 3K9 or 4K7 will do fine.

    in reply to: Vibe no phase (solved) #28767
    Cybercow
    Participant

    Some good clear & detailed photos of the build would give a better opportunity for us to better help.

    Did you used a matched set of 2N5952 JFETs?

    How about power supply and VB measurement values? What are those reading?

Viewing 17 posts - 18 through 34 (of 726 total)