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Barry.
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January 28, 2022 at 2:02 pm #22796
Alex WylieParticipantHello all,
I just finished building the v3a MOWAH. As suggested in the build document, I socketed all of the transistors and the four capacitors. I was planning to just use a C100K pot so I could set (cock) the WAH so I could put it into a small enclosure and just turn it on and off.
When I tested it, I got the distortion promised by the caps and switches but NO wah. I have tried both a philips inductor and a Dunlop Faser and still there is no wah.
Any help will be GREATLY appreciated!
Alex
Does anyone have any suggestions for what I might try? Here are a couple of pictures of my build.

January 28, 2022 at 5:53 pm #22803
CybercowParticipantWhat happens to the guitar signal when the pot is turned? (Remember, this is NOT an auto-wah.)
January 29, 2022 at 9:10 am #22828
Alex WylieParticipantHi, good morning!
I understand that this isn’t an autowah. I plan to put this into a standard 1590N1 enclosure and hand-set the wah. For trouble shooting, I removed the foot switch so at this point it is always on. There is no change in tone when I turn the pot except when I get to the center of the sweep where I notice a slight change in background ‘hiss’. I have tested the pot and I read 100 at both ends, so it’s fine.
I’ve rechecked all of my connections and part values. I have also tried two different inductors. A phillips 4 pin (first) and then a Dunlop Red Fasel. Neither made any difference. I have also adjusted both trimpots and the only impact is to volume.
I am fairly uneducated when it comes to electronics ( I understand the basics) but one thing that comes to mind is that perhaps the way I’ve connected the jacks and power may be a factor. As you’ll see in the attached picture, there is only one ground going the the circuit board. Could this be the problem?
Thanks for responding
January 29, 2022 at 11:26 am #22831
CybercowParticipantAny parts substitutions amongst the BJTs or FET? If so, check the pinouts.
January 31, 2022 at 1:08 pm #22851
Alex WylieParticipantNo, I’m using J113 and 2n5088s from Barry. I’ve swapped them out for others (same parts) with no effect. TR1 is controlling volume but TR2 doesn’t seem to be doing anything.
January 31, 2022 at 9:23 pm #22854
CybercowParticipantAccording to the schematic, TR2 is the final volume output control. TR1 (with R9) should be controlling the “Q” factor of the sharpness & amplitude of the filter. (See page of the build document.) Lift one leg of R9 and see what changes. If you do that, TR1 should have zero effect (change) when turned.)
Finally, from where did you get the inductors? They need to be 500mH “wah” inductors to work properly. (Had to ask.) 😉
February 1, 2022 at 12:41 pm #22868
Alex WylieParticipantI had it backwards. TR1 wasn’t doing anything and TR2 was controlling volume. As you suggested, I disconnected R9 and when I tested, TR1 has no effect and TR2 is in fact still controlling volume.
With a guitar plugged in, the sound is quite trebly and harsh. SW1 does in fact add/remove some bass and SW1 has no effect.
The Red Fasel is from Dunlop. Purchased from Amazon. I don’t have the equipment to measure the mH, The Fasel came with no technical data but the web indicates that the Red Fasels should be between 500mH and 600mh.
February 1, 2022 at 3:29 pm #22872Anonymous
GuestThe Fasel inductor is mounted incorrectly. One pin must be in on the white pad.
February 1, 2022 at 8:42 pm #22881
CybercowParticipantThanks for jumping in Wilkie! I was getting stumped. I saw that in the build docs, but by the traces shown on the PCB, the white pad is also connected to the group of pads beneath it. N’cest pas?
February 2, 2022 at 8:01 am #22888
Alex WylieParticipantI saw that too. Initially, I installed a Phillips 4 pin inductor and the only way it would line up with the mounting holes was to use the white pad. Because that didn’t work, I went to the Red Fasel. As the PCB groups two mounts inside a box, I used them. I also noted that the trace appears to connect the white pad to the pad directly below.
I will try relocating the Fasel and will let you know.
February 2, 2022 at 8:20 am #22889
Alex WylieParticipantI saw that too. Initially, I installed a Phillips 4 pin inductor and the only way it would line up with the mounting holes was to use the white pad. Because that didn’t work, I went to the Red Fasel. As the PCB groups two mounts inside a box, I used them. I also noted that the trace appears to connect the white pad to the pad directly below.
I will try relocating the Fasel and will let you know.
Update: Nope. No difference. R9 was reconnected. TR1 still has no effect.
February 2, 2022 at 8:40 am #22892
Alex WylieParticipant
February 2, 2022 at 1:28 pm #22899
CybercowParticipantHave you measured the resistance of the inductor? It should have a measurable resistance reading. One leg of it will need to be lifted.
February 2, 2022 at 2:27 pm #22901
Alex WylieParticipantIt reads 135ohms. Is that acceptable?
February 2, 2022 at 5:21 pm #22904
CybercowParticipantAlex – yes. The resistance value is not as important as the mH (inductance) value. The resistance measurement tells us that the inductor is not open.
Do you have an audio probe? If so, you’ll want to probe around the circuit and try to figure it out that way. If not, they’re dead-simple to make.
February 7, 2022 at 9:29 am #23013
Alex WylieParticipantThanks for the advice. I had to find out how to build a probe, which I did. Now I have to try and understand where to start probing! I’ll let you know! Thanks again.
February 11, 2022 at 1:13 pm #23079
Alex WylieParticipantokay. So I’ve been tracing the signal path from the input. I get as far as R7 which connects to one side of the fasel L1. I have signal at R4 and at one side of L1 I also get signal on one side of R7 but not the other and not at the R7 side of the fasel. As mentioned earlier, the fasel appears to be functional. All of my solders are good and clean. And as mentioned, I get output but no wah.
I’m once again stuck! I tested R7 and it’s fine. Why would I get signal on one side but not the other??
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