@chuck
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If Q1 – Q4 are 2N5952s they are backward, if you’ve got matched 2N5457s they are correct. Did you do any trimmer adjustments? Both The Vibe and the Dr Phybes have a sweet spot – either side of the sweet spot they just don’t do anything.
Chuck
When you are looking at the schematics on Kit’s site remember that they are for the original Muffs that range from old to fossils. Barry’s boards seem to be more modern ‘works like’ versions of the old circuits. The 100uf in C15 is going to give you better power filtering. I’m honestly have no idea what R25 does but 33k is specified for all versions in the build document – rather than soldering in a jumper I would put in a socket so you can check out the jumper, the 33k or something else until you get the sound you’re hunting for.
Chuck
Tony, the clipping LEDs may or may not light up depending on what you used. You can tell if they are working if there is a change in the character of the distortion. Depending on what other diodes you’ve used and what LEDs you’ve used this can be a little difference or a major difference.
Chuck
Mark, I’m not sure how well this would work with The Vibe but I did this mod to a Dr Phybes and it works pretty well – “The smaller knob is for the depth mod – there are a couple of versions floating around, I settled on pulling R30 (1M) and replacing it with a B1M pot with a 470K resistor in series. Checking values with my multi meter with the pot all the way down gets me a baseline at about 485K and with the pot all the way up I’m just over 1.5M – ‘That’s great, Chuck – what’s it sound like?’ – at the bottom end there seems to be more distance between the top and bottom of the phase with less distance when the pot is cranked. This seems to effect the rate some. Some versions of the depth mod suggest just replacing the resistor with a B1M pot – I’m not certain in that case that all of the pot rotation would be usable.” I’ve got another phaser based vibe that has a separate depth knob that works but at a fast rate and higher depth setting it pushes one a bit toward motion sickness. Good luck.
Chuck
The enclosure will provide shielding that is missing with everything laying out there naked on the bench.
Fingers crossed.
Chuck
Can you post some photos of the guts of the pedal? What else is in the pedal chain with the Muff? What are you using for power? Take a close look at both power and signal cables.
Chuck
I did something similar using some cheap Filtertron clones, a six position rotary switch I got from GuitarElectrinics.com and a PRS-ish wiring diagram also from that site – there are several wiring variations on the site as well. I had to widen the front of the control cavity to fit the rotary switch and make a custom cover (kind of a retro Cowboy/Swoopy thing). You may be able to find a 4-way wiring diagram there as well.
Chuck
It will work either way. The best way is the one that gives you the shortest wire runs within the box. On the Stones Drive the DC pads are at the bottom of the board so the shortest run with the DC jack at the top of the box would be DC jack to the main board then from the main board to the 3PDT. If the DC Jack is on the side it could go either to the main board then to the 3PDT or the other way round.
Chuck
“The Stage 3 enclosure was stuffed with a nice NOS Mullard black-glass OC44…” had me a little confused at first.
Nice clean work, as always.
Chuck
Welp, never mind. Plugged it in on my board buck nekkid as in the second pic above and it worked just fine. Very carefully put it back in the box, gave all the socketed stuff an extra poke just to feel like I did something, closed it up, put it back on the board, and it works.
Chuck
Did you do anything with the trimmer? The Vibe and the Dr Phybes both have a specific spot where they work, a hair to the left or right and they don’t do anything.
Chuck
Ollie, in most variants the 100n is the standard value for C1. If you use an On/Off/On DPDT with a 10n in C1 and a 100n at the top of the switch as shown in the build document you’d get the stock sound with the switch down, the high pass mod with the switch in the middle so you could put either a lower value at the top for a ‘higher pass filter’ or something more than 10 but less than 100 for something in between. If you have one of Barry’s DPDT wiring boards you can socket the capacitors on the switch and have a field day swapping them in and out until you’ve found perfection.
Chuck
Remember that the Muffin board is for just one version the build document covers 10 different variants and several people have built other versions. For C12 and 13 a Violet Ram uses 100n in both but a Ram uses 100n in C12 and a 1u in C13 – in a standard film box cap a 100n is dainty compared to the rather huge 1u but the lead spacing on both caps is the same. As long as the values are correct and they fit the hole spacing pretty much anything will work. If you look at MLCCs they are all tiny but have the same lead spacing. I used them in this build (the Muffin is on the left):
Ollie, In the banner at the top of this page you’ll see “GUIDES PAGE” following a list of build documents you’ll find a blue header “MUST READ GUIDES” the second guide on the list is Beginners Guide to Components that discusses different components. Generally you’re looking for 1/4 watt metal film resistors, film capacitors 7.2 x 2.5 mm (or 3.5mm for 1uf) (https://cdn11.bigcommerce.com/s-sxoup5r/images/stencil/1280×1280/products/2426/3507/Topmay-Box__29639.1409778261.jpg?c=2) , electrolytic radial capacitors at least 16v with lead spacing at 5mm (https://cdn11.bigcommerce.com/s-sxoup5r/images/stencil/1280×1280/products/3104/4400/1404__13518.1418933235.jpg?c=2) If you order from Small Bear (looks like they are back up), Stomp Box Parts or Tayda you generally be able to get what you need. Ordering from Mouser can be successful with a lot of study since they carry a very wide range of electronic parts in very wide ranges of sizes and capacities.
Good luck.
Chuck
Bruce, Thanks for that. I was suspected the electrolytics would need to be reversed.
Barry, a while back I built a Muff sort of to Creamy Dreamer specs using an OC141 and 3 OC140s for the transistors, and 4 TFK OA128s for the diodes – it was a glorious thick fuzzy bottom heavy monster.
I had a new member ask about issues with a PUFF he built and in the process of the discussion he finally mentioned that he had used BC108s – literally like two days before you put up your latest batch of Germaniums for sale. That discussion was running through my head while I was thinking about other projects as well as old builds and my current desire to “standardize” my board. I’ve been back burnering silicon fuzz faces and possibly revamping two NPN MK II Tonebenders into 125Bs. The PUFF and PUTB boards will make those a bit easier.
Chuck
Thank you.
My grin has yet to fade on this one. With the Gain all the way down there is still a lot of Fuzz available and with the Gain up and Fuzz all the way down there is a good amount of fuzz/clipping. The standard DSOTM acts similarly but the general tone is different – both in a good way.
Chuck
