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BarryKeymasterExcellent! One of my favorites.
BarryKeymasterLooking at the board picture I would reflow the entire board.
For example, if you look closely at C4, C5, C8, and a few of the IC pads there is no solder in the pads, or at least very little. Reflow by having extra solder handy and go over each pad making sure the solder flows through the pad. Not to excess but just enough so you do not have any cold solder joints.
You may want to share a clear back of the board shot so we can more closely examine the board’s solder joints.
Here are a few suspect joints that I can see.

BarryKeymasterThank you, everyone.
My son is heading to Navy boot camp on Tuesday so that was another reason why I had to get my act together because the last thing I wanted him worrying about is his dear old Dad. Also, I feel I can get a lot more done on a daily basis if I feel well.
This also creates an empty nest for me and I haven’t been in this position for over 22 years. I would rather be healthy while figuring it out.
@Wilkie1: I may take you up on that. We shall see how everything goes.
BarryKeymasterAlso you can use any 3 knob Drive or Fuzz circuit and hand wire the middle tone (or all three of them) to make them in line or however you would like them to be. Thus taking up less room. You would probably use 18 to 22 gauge wire for that. Just another thought.
BarryKeymasterExcellent job!
Thanks for sharing.
BarryKeymasterAwesome and thanks for sharing.
Everything looks great!
BarryKeymasterNo, we don’t do that.
Mainly because it is a lot of work, time, and money. Also you have to verify a final product before releasing which is even more time, and money especially if something is wrong.
That said you should explore combos on this site more and try some of the others ideas. For example using the sidewalls and stacking. Careful placement of certain switches and jacks at the Top sidewall would afford more room below.
Wilkie1 and Playsforfun both have 1590DD enclosures with 8 -16 circuit boards inside.
For examples:
Check out this Combo Build Thread
also…
Wilkie1s Mega Combo Thread Link
I hope that helps.
BarryKeymasterAlways follow the PCB.
It is probably an error when populating the photo image one part at a time.
I will check into it.
BarryKeymasterI also am sending out postcards currently with orders that has this conversion table + codes on the back.
BarryKeymasterThe problem actually is that R21 did not transfer from the schematic to the BOM which is a human error thing. The value is correctly listed in the current build document (see schematic available).
What you need to do is add the correct value listed in the schematic for R21 (5k1). All this does is run in parallel with the potentiometer effectively making it a 2.5k pot instead of 5k. It would actually work with or without it. Additionally (this week also) it was brought to my attention that R11 works better at biasing Q3 if the value is between 3k and 4k7 so you should update that as well to save any biasing problems.
image from current build doc on the Guides Page:

Unfortunately at that time, my entire old site went down, and I went super critical transferring and redoing build docs to this new site, all within a two week time frame, and I ended up with a typo on this BOM which was not brought to my attention till now. I will correct that right away.
Sorry for any confusion and i appreciate you bringing it to my attention so I can fix it.
Build Document has been updated on our Guides Page.
https://guitarpcb.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/03/Boogie57_v1.pdf
BarryKeymasterYou need to re-flow the entire board. While moving it around you likely uncovered a bad solder joint that gave on you. Consider that a troubleshoot 101 must do item anytime you have an unexpected issue like that. Especially when it goes from working to not working.
Recheck or redo all off-board wiring as well. Especially grounds.
BarryKeymasterAll the same. Cosmetic changes only.
Schematic is identical.
Be sure to use the T Pad for in and out Audio wiring and not the extra ground pad. That was the main reason for a change at that time. We highlighted the silk screen for that T Pad. While we were at it we made a few minor cosmetic changes but nothing regarding how to build or populate.
BarryKeymasterHi.
Do me a favor and try changing the resistor R11 to anything between 3k and 4k7 and let me know how that reacts.
BarryKeymasterI am glad you like it.
BarryKeymasterNo one has posted a Stage 3 in a Mini for a while. Well done!
BarryKeymasterOne of the best.
BarryKeymasterThat is an image error I have to correct. The BOM and schematic are correct.
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