@barry
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Seems like it is not truly a build issue at all.
It will be different based on different guitars/pickups but if you want the Volume to be unity at 12:00 instead of 9:00 or 8:00 then roll the Boost control back. It is a separate gain stage on its own which alleviates the complaint of the original circuit not having enough available gain. The more you roll the Boost knob back the higher you will be able to turn up the Master Volume control. With the Boost all-the-way counterclockwise it is essentially a stock Llama circuit.
If rolling off the Boost has no effect then you would have a build issue. Then I would recheck every resistor value by stripe and also recheck the bias transistor voltage and make sure it is between 4.5v to 6v.
If you are wiring them in series I am not sure what anyone else is suggesting that is more difficult than this example from the Guides Page that I copy and pasted below. The Tone TweQ is a complete circuit on its own and all you have to do is connect the INs and OUTs just like below. The Pony of course has a different layout but has INs and OUTs just the same.
Obviously due to adding 4 extra pots, footswitch, additional wiring as well as the huge size of the Pony board you will need a larger enclosure than a 125B.
Here is an example Combo Build Wiring Scheme.
Combo Build Guide courtesy of Playsforfun and a Combo Build Thread with examples!
Looks like the simplest way to do it is to use any available ground pad and connect a small jumper from the ground pad to the center lug of the tone control. You can tack it onto the extra solder from the Tone pot center lug sticking through or whatever seems best. That is the easiest and smallest kludge which will be unobtrusive on the back of the board.
While extremely rare I am looking into a manufacturing defect on this batch.
You can add a jumper to get a ground connection just fine and that was what the other guy did.
The picture above is correct for pot orientation.
Also, there is a little number 1 to indicate lug 1 on the back of the board where the Boost pot is installed.
Make sure there is no contact between the back of the pot and the board solder.
If you need to you can always hand-wire a potentiometer to get it to fit in with your current project. Just use some heavier gauge wire to hold the potentiometer and PCB in place.
I would agree that the transistor is dead which would cause the rest of your issues.
I was certain that the backward Russian diode would have been the sole cause of that.
I would check to be sure the diode is fine and you have a good solder joint.
If none of that helps you can give us socket voltages both with and without transistors installed.
A picture would help with determining an issue.
Yes, the bias was too high. shoot for 4.5 to 6
Sounds like the boost pot was soldered backward (guessing without an image)
There is an overly detailed analysis of the PURP on the Guides Page.
Analysis of the PURP – Pump’d Up Rangemaster by BIG O
Is the Diode you are using at D1 a Russian germanium?
I cannot tell for sure, but Russian diodes are almost always opposite orientation as 1N34A diodes, which recently have become very difficult to find.
That would mean that the stripe side is the anode and not the cathode so it would need to be installed in the opposite orientation as the silkscreen which was originally designed using a 1N34A diode. If you check my shop page there is a disclosure explaining this.
There is no difference in quality or tone one way or the other. Verify that it is a Russian diode before desoldering. It looks a lot like the D9E diodes that I sell in my shop but I cannot say for certain. If you verify it is a D9E then desolder carefully so as not to ruin the board pads.
I would also trim the transistor leads a little shorter so you can get a tighter fit in the socket.
Thanks for sharing and another job well done.
Thanks for also showing off the amazing glow-in-the-dark benefits.
I really appreciate the nice photos.
If it were me I would probably build them individually in series, into a combo pedal. (see more on combo builds on the Guides Page)
Each with its own bypass switch and volume control for the most tonal variations.
Then additionally you can use the Tone TwEQ by itself without the Pony engaged so you can alter tonal effects to any other pedals in your pedal chain which would be the most versatile move of all. This would be similar to how people would use an EQD Tone Job pedal except you would put 2 circuits into a single combo pedal to save space, or obviously, you can build them in their own enclosures.
Anything else is just chopping away at your options. IMHO.
Hi Max,
You could use a Buff N Blend to add a Blend however any Phase 90 circuit is going to be inverted so you cannot do that without adding an extra stage to the Buff N Blend loop in series with the Phybes so that the Phase is no longer inverting. A Stage 3 would be a good example.
You could build a Paramix which is an excellent tool to truly MIX wet and dry signals for any individual pedals you wish to insert in the loop and has a phase switch to instantly solve any issues.
You will not be able to change the Phybes to a Vibe with just a toggle switch.
Not sure if it helps much but I notice you are soldering the wiring to the top side of both boards. You should be pushing the wire through till the pvc sleeve makes contact with the board (flush) then solder it from the back side. This will make for a solid connection and help avoid cold solder joints as well as weak wire connections.
Alternatively, you can bring the wire through the back side and solder to the top of the board. Whatever is easiest to get the wire soldered flush to the board.
