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PlaysforfunModeratorYOYO, I haven’t tried it myself, but It would have to be a fully functional, stand alone spring reverb circuit. Capable of functioning either with or without the BnB. The BnB simply splits and balances. It wont drive a spring reverb tank. If that is what you mean then you would get what I think you are imagining: you could then mix any variable amount of dry and wet signal. If not you will first need to google making a spring reverb circuit first. Cheers
PlaysforfunModeratorOK. My bad eyes on that one. Sorry. Looks good. Another possibility is that untrimmed wire ends or similar may be touching the case under the pots. Or even under the board after mounting? I’d trim the wire ends everywhere and look for any accidently ‘bridged pads’. In my time building, this issue usually ends up being a grounding issue for me. Do you have any sound at all at full volume?
PlaysforfunModeratorWelcome to the forum, dhgagnon. The one thing that you had to solder after testing, and during mounting is the power jack. I think I see that you chose the wrong tab to solder the red wire to. That tab is for use of an internal battery when the external power is unplugged. Hints: get a DMM, build an audio probe. Check these links. https://guitarpcb.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/A-Beginners-Guide-to-Components.pdf page 20 for the DC jack http://www.guitarpcb.com/apps/forums/topics/show/7219163-how-to-build-an-audio-probe-photo-essay
Happy Building
PlaysforfunModeratorYeah, Billy sees it. The blue wire is soldered to the ring of the jack and needs the tip.
PlaysforfunModeratorHey Marcus. I haven’t tried this but from I can see, following the guide above and the V5 schematic, you could insert the pot between C8 and the junction of R2/R3. I see only 2 ways of performing it. You could have a sister board attached in place of C8 as the cleanest way (my favorite) or cut the trace between C8 and R2 and solder wires to C8 leg and R2 leg (still effective). That is the only possibility that I see for insertion. Perhaps a keener eye or someone who has tried this can chime in. Cheers
PlaysforfunModeratorYeah man. Real tight. Good stuff tho. Congrats.
PlaysforfunModeratorBeauties all three. You got talent! Thanks for sharing.
PlaysforfunModeratorHello Shaneo. I will answer your question with a maybe. I’ve had my share of bad parts and bad connections, and most were found after the build was completed. It definitely happens. In this case you will have to tell us. Everyone will tell you to reflow any solder joints that aren’t perfect, and to triple check your component values. That said, Try a new led or no led. Try a new depth pot. Maybe it has a bad connection within. Ive had plenty of faulty switches too. You could jumper the switch lugs with an alligator clip real quick. For power use a battery and a dc adapter, both, to see if there is a difference/problem, but use a battery for sure to eliminate possible outside noise. Also make sure your r10 value is correct at 330 ohms. Please report back. Others may have some advise to give.
PlaysforfunModeratorComing soon…Track Buster M19-FX


You have this one… Funk to Funky

and this one..
June 19, 2023 at 6:47 am in reply to: boogie57 first version need schematic and board wiring layout #29000
PlaysforfunModeratorIt can be found in the guides section, pre 2021. https://guitarpcb.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/03/Boogie57_v1.pdf
PlaysforfunModeratorI really like your imagination. Great build.
PlaysforfunModeratorVery cool. Thanks.
PlaysforfunModeratorVery nice. Must sound great.
PlaysforfunModeratorVery cool. Nice work.
PlaysforfunModeratorWhat a beauty! Tell me about the top control plate.
PlaysforfunModeratorEveryone needs at least one. Nice looking pedal, Ben
PlaysforfunModeratorReally super cool. Someone has been doing alot of thinking and planning.
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