@playsforfun
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Yeah, that’s probably how I would handle it. Make sure you show off the finished pedal when you are through.
You are probably just over thinking the LEDs. If not using common-anode dual-color LEDs then just subtract a leg. With a regular LED you can only alert yourself to one fact. You can show the ‘subject’ to be in the off (no) position or the on (yes) position. One leg to ground and one leg to a CLR that’s connected to + power. On most of Barry’s boards, the white square pad is to indicate bypass mode or off mode. Pretty simple to remember. If showing only that power IS applied or effect active, then avoid the white square pad. Generally, and because I don’t like being limited, I run wires from these pads to the LED that I located wherever I wanted it in my enclosures. If you think about it, Any component from any board can be relocated via wires. The board is just convenience. You say you have trouble reading a schematic still. Try this; grab a fuzz face schematic (something simple) and build it without a board, following the schematic. Tedious but that should bring confidence.
Hello, Salim BEKRAOUI, and welcome to the forum. If you have a working V6 then you are fortunate. It’s a great circuit. The Diamond Drive is an upgraded V6, and it looks like you may interchange components according to their ‘number’ on the build doc safely. Pay particular attention to TR1 if you plan to swap transistors. The 5K trimmer might not be enough resistance to bias some available transistors. Another difference to look at is the Drive pot value. Although I don’t have both circuits on hand to test, it looks like the Diamond Drive has less available gain. A smaller pot value will give you less distortion. It looks like the other changes tighten up the bass some. I had been wondering what to put on deck for next build. I think the Diamond Drive is a good candidate. Guys please chime in with more detail for Salim BEKRAOUI or if I said something wrong.
Hey stranded. No, there are no rules against what you have posted or asked. We’ll help when we can. Whether you have your head wrapped around the RTD I don’t know, but your connections should provide the circuit you describe. Whether it works as intended you’ll have to see. You could have jumped off before R5, but in this case, and if the circuit proves to be too much input for the TT and causing unwanted distortion, then the C6 spot can be used for a resistor to create a voltage divider in order to lessen the signal strength. Just an observation. I read that you breadboard a lot. Breadboard yourself a roto-tone and have a blast with experimentation. IMHO the RT doc does an excellent job showing and describing its functions. Perhaps you will discover a new idea. Let us know.
Here is another example to use at your own risk. To use the 3PDT from GPCB, the trace between pads 3 and 9 must be cut. Test with DMM to sure. I’ve never done this before.
Sure. This is how to put the dips to a DPDT toggle. And the remaining pole will be for the LED, which you can follow any build doc for.
Hey TPH77. I just did a green Russian with that board yesterday. One little issue of my own and then good to go. Troubleshooting is about eliminating possibilities. Is it possible that the transistors are not making good contact? Are they each proven to be good? Is the strange R1 and R3 phenomenon resolved? Is SW1 bad perhaps? I’ve met a lot of crappy switches and always after install. Have you triple checked all resistor and cap values? Double checking is not enough often times. Ask any one of my fiber optic techs. I would scrub both sides well with alcohol and a toothbrush. Make sure there are no tiny solder bridges or stray wire ends making contact. (Personally my guess is something is touching where it should not). A toothpick for a tool works well. Sometimes when inserting stranded wire through small holes a strand goes rogue and invisibly touches something nearby (one of my personal favorites). Make sure resistors aren’t touching each other or have metal touching them for any other component. Unwanted contact can occur when the paint is chipped or cracked.
First I see that you have a very low voltage to Q1. The collector of Q1 and Q3 should measure the same. Each is fed source voltage through a 100R and then 22K resistor. I would fix that first and make sure my voltages make sense and go from there. Personally I don’t trust your ‘reliable’ power supply. I need to troubleshoot with a good battery for my own peace of mind. That’s up to you tho. Make an audio probe as soon as possible so you can zero in on issues. You can google some easy designs. It will help answer a lot of questions before they are asked. Asking questions is still, of course, ok any time. Just saying my DMM and test probe will usually find my problems pretty quick. Let us know how things go.
Howdy Stitch. Those lovely A and B pads can be found on many of Barry’s boards. Their main function is to provide us with an easy method of moving the clipping diodes off the main board, and onto a sister mod board, where different options or flavors of diode combinations can be tried by the flick of a switch or the turn of rotary switch. Check out the DPDT board and the Roto-Tone for lots of options and get ready to have fun.
I would keep in mind that I and everyone one here has said the same thing at some point and still found a build issue. I would check for DC voltages and write down your source and transistor voltages to share with us. I would make sure I used a battery when troubleshooting to remove possible adapter troubles (being fooled really blows). I would remember that most pedal problems are grounding issues. I would have a audio test probe made (real simple) so I could follow signal, according to the schematic, and know where it goes bad. That would help to zero in on the problem. I can’t describe how good it feels when that test probe finds signal at the output. Finally, if none of that worked, I would provide wicked clear photos of both sides of the board along with all the off-board wiring. That way I could get help much faster. Asking for guesses will frustrate your soul even more I figure. But my guess would be grounding/shorting issue. Audio probe is often a solution. I keep it handy in a bin called test tools. We all need them.
Hi Assaf Bomgard. If you look at what is unique to the D’Lay board when the Tap Tempo is in the circuit, it is that the Time pot and R22 are omitted and PT6 is wired in. Therefore, your pigtail between enclosures has to include the PT6 wiring and be put on a switch. A switching jack would be ideal. You also need to create switching for the removal and re-insertion of R22 and the Time pot. That can get pretty creative or stay simple if you add the switch(s) to the original enclosure. This assumes that the new enclosure is self powered and that your pigtail is shielded against noise. Have a great project. It sounds like challenging fun. Let us know how it works</span>
Hey Gavin. Not to be a wise guy but this scenario is one of the two reasons that you have volume knobs. But if you want a project of trying to even them out start with gathering the schematics and look for voltage dividers that can be reconfigured along with calculating all gain stages to get an idea of which may need adjustment for your needs. As you look up the calculations necessary, keep them in a safe place for later. You’ll need them again some day. As re-designers, we need to know these formulas and several more. Let us know what you learned and how it turned out.
This is great stuff. I appreciate the work and all the good info along the way, O. Quite a big project.
Yeah, I’ve done this before and still have it. You may get a different result, but for me the sweet spot on the trimpot is lost each time and needs very slight tweaking. Switching between songs would be chancy at best to me. Let us know what you come up with. I searched ebay just now and quickly found a 6PDT switch. That’s probably the one I used.
Thanks very much guys. Yeah, I forgot to mention that I read that Bowie liked to listen to Frank Sinatra, so I was able to lean Frank up against the phonograph leg. The original pic that I found for the inspiration was Bowie seated with the cat and cigarette. The rest, including the smoke, I was able to find surfing around, even the mouse. I was fortunate to be able to stick to the single color scheme, even with Sinatra. My son is a spiffy dresser so I wanted this to stay classy, and it fits with the all white Cort strat I bought about a year ago. Yeah the old plywood kind. I was awesome tho in several ways, but after I got it home it just reminded me of Chris and would look great hanging from his neck, I thought, so I sent it to him. This will be a good follow up.
I’ll pass along an experiment from this pedal that worked out. I drilled for 3mm LEDs and then decided I wanted them to stay beneath the waterslide, so I filed and sanded them flat across the top not knowing if I would just ruin them. I worked great and the flat surface was able to meet up with the label pretty well. There are 3-4 top coats of clear. I’m relying on the solder joints to hold it them in place instead of superglue. We’ll see. All in all making less rookie mistakes this time was nice.
