@jeff24
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Barry, when you say to add the Stage 3 after the compressor, is that a requirement for the Buff N Blend, or the compressor itself?
As long as both are inverted phase, does it make a difference which comes first?
On iPhones and iPads, go to: Settings -> Camera -> Formats -> Most compatible
Apple defaults to HEIC format, which is great for dealing with members of the Apple community, but terrible for everyone else (Windows, Android, Chromebooks, Linux, etc.).
GIMP is a free image processing tool (similar to Photoshop) for multiple platforms; you can load HEIC images and “export” to JPG or PNG.
The DPDT Wiring Board should allow you switch between inputs (or outputs):
Single input -> DPDT Wiring board -> Tone TWEQ fretted -> Output 1
. -> Tone TWEQ unfretted -> Output 2
Double input 1 -> Tone TWEQ fretted -> DPDT Wiring board -> Single OutputDouble input 2 -> Tone TWEQ unfretted ->
I think that would work. It would be cool to play with.
That “PRES” pot….
The instructions say to use a “C” pot. I’m guessing you used an “A” pot and wired it backwards (?). If you actually used a C pot and wired it backward, that would cause your PRES pot to be maxed in what would normally be a minimal position. Am I looking at that right?
Reversing the A pot would work, but the logarithmic taper would off.
We play browser “whack-a-mole” all day at work. It’s nice having Firefox, Edge, and Chrome available when sites give compatibility issues. I’m always prepared to switch browsers as-needed when sites give grief.
On Windows-based machines, verify that you’re running the browser you actually think you are: many malicious browsers get installed by hitting a wrong web page. WaveBrowser is a commonly encountered malicious fake browser, and I’ve had to help users uninstall at least three other similar beasts. All have desktop icons that look similar to the Edge browser icon. You can usually uninstall them via Control Panel.
Web standards change and browsers change their underpinnings. I’ve had to “reset” or “refresh” Edge, Chrome and Firefox on many machines to get the browser functioning in a stable fashion:
- Firefox: settings -> help -> more troubleshooting information -> refresh
- Chrome and Edge: search under settings for “reset to factory default”
For ad-blocking, Ghostery (Edge and Firefox) and uBlock Origin (Firefox) work well and give few issues. Can’t comment on Chrome; I refuse to use it, unless it’s “ungoogled Chromium”.
How about replacing your footswitch with an AfterBlaster board:
That should be easy enough. You can set the AfterBlaster to a fixed boost/gain via a trim pot, or you can add a regular pot to vary the boost (provided you have room for the pot on your pedal).
I don’t know the db value the AfterBlaster adds; I was thinking it was in the build doc, but I’m not seeing it (that value should probably be in the doc).
Is the pot 180 degees off? per the build doc, the board-soldered pot should under the board, not outside it.
