@jeff24
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Thank you for creating this new thread.
I’m hoping this info will make it into the build doc for the PreAmp Boost.
Barry:
On the Ascension Boost, can I use a Mod board and switch between “Tight” and “All Frequencies” by jumpering C3, like on the Stage 3 Booster? So 10n and 220n?
Awesome graphics on the enclosure!
You need to post some photos of the PCB and wiring…. Tough diagnosing the issue with no visuals.
I’m not an electrician either. It’s just fun to fiddle with this stuff.
I think you’d wire the pot directly in place of the switch, using all 3 pads, with the left-most pad being lug “1”. If I’m in error, someone please let me know.
I was in error: you don’t need to add the 10k resistor to the pot. The numbers have changed from the above link: keep R19 (10k), remove R17 and R18. Looks like R16 (10k) was changed to R19 on the NT board. R18 (39k on both versions) traces to the left-most lug of the switch (text up); that corresponds to lug “one” of the MoRC board (the trace is on the backside).
Rather than guessing the fit/clearance, you can print a scale version of your layout on paper, white-glue it to a piece of 2-3/8 X 4-1/2 inch piece of cardboard to check the component fit. That’s an easy and quick verification.
Couple of notes:
You don’t HAVE to use the wiring board. I think it’s neat because you can mount the caps on the bottom of the board and leave room on top for power/jack connectors. You could use an On-On-On switch by itself and wire it for 22n/100n/220, or just an On-On for 22n and one of the others for bass.
The layout example is just that. It’s set for 20mm knobs; it looks “busy” without the knobs, but I think with the knobs it’ll be clearer. Maybe setting it up for 15mm knobs might be better. Dunno. I think the larger knobs look better. It’s also 300DPI so I could post it here. I think 600DPI is way cooler.
Also, the C-T-C distance between the example’s board-mounted knobs is 33mm/1.3 inches; that’s just a guess. I don’t have the board. But my beer-math indicates it’ll fit in a 125B box OK with some toe room between the bottom knob and the foot switch. I think. The knobs could always be shifted up a little more towards the switch for additional clearance.
Both the NT and MoRC compressors are based on the Ross circuit. There’s a nice writeup for targeting bass in the MoRC build documentation. In addition to the filtering you’re talking about (C12 in the case of the NT compressor), it was also suggested to increase the release time:
“Bass players would normally look for a faster release time than a lead guitar – limit the gain for large signals and quickly
restore the gain for following low level signals giving more of a tight rather than sustained sound…. Alternatively you could replace SW1, R17 and R18 with a 100kΩ pot and set the release time manually.”You could:
- Replace C12 with a DPDT wiring board (with the original 22nF on one side, and a 100nF or 220nF on the other).
- Replace SW1 with 100k, 150k, or 200k pot in series with a 10k resistor (FYI, Jameco has 150k linear pots…. the 10k resistor and 150k pot would give the 10k to 160k range of the original SW1 setup, and everything in between).
Interesting question. I don’t have a direct answer, but this post provides a tweak to let you tune things as needed:
“I followed the build instructions but added a trimmer at R5 to have a finer degree of control over wet/dry balance.”
I think that’s cool, and gives some flexibility.
Barry, when you say to add the Stage 3 after the compressor, is that a requirement for the Buff N Blend, or the compressor itself?
As long as both are inverted phase, does it make a difference which comes first?
On iPhones and iPads, go to: Settings -> Camera -> Formats -> Most compatible
Apple defaults to HEIC format, which is great for dealing with members of the Apple community, but terrible for everyone else (Windows, Android, Chromebooks, Linux, etc.).
GIMP is a free image processing tool (similar to Photoshop) for multiple platforms; you can load HEIC images and “export” to JPG or PNG.
The DPDT Wiring Board should allow you switch between inputs (or outputs):
Single input -> DPDT Wiring board -> Tone TWEQ fretted -> Output 1
.                                                       -> Tone TWEQ unfretted -> Output 2
Double input 1 -> Tone TWEQ fretted -> DPDT Wiring board -> Single OutputDouble input 2 -> Tone TWEQ unfretted ->
I think that would work. It would be cool to play with.
