@barry
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This is a quirk I can only manage to replicate in Chrome.
I think it may have to do with “Lazy Loading” which I turned off to see if that is it.
Well I did a Google search of “Lazy Load + Chrome” and there are quite a few complaints over several years.
Let me know if you have any more issues so I can confirm.
Install the diode at D4.
Be sure those pots do not short on the back of the board solder joints.
Hi Playsforfun! Welcome back.
I would remove the Roto-Tone myself. Put in the proper Capacitor.
Then check it.
Still no improvement.. then re-flow every joint again.
Check it again.
I would also be verifying all connections are true with a DMM.
What Cybercow means is that you have the “Stereo Jack” on the Output Side of the pedal.
It is supposed to be on the Input Side but in the case of your pedal it will still work by just removing the battery strap.
What will not work is you have the I or “Input side” of the wiring board going to the “Output” Stereo Jack Tip.
That = No Sound. It needs to go to the Input Jack Tip hence the I on the wiring board. I is for Input.
When you flip the pedal over as if to play it the guitar jack goes in the right side or Input. So looking at the gutshot your Input Jack is always on the Left side. This is why the wiring board has the I Pad on the left side as well.
Another Issue is you have not installed the LEDs in D3 and D4. They are part of the circuit.
Install the LEDs in the proper orientation and then switch the two orange wires to where I show you in the Image below.
Do this at the Jack Tips so you do not burn out any pads on the wiring board.
Finally since this is a kit the potentiometers are supposed to connect directly to the board. The pedal will still work but it saves you a lot of extra wiring and be sure that you are not touching the solder side (back of the board) against the potentiometers or bare wire or anything that will cause a short.
I hope that helps.
Modify the filter sweep range from the standard 250 – 2500 Hz to 100 – 1300 Hz by changing the capacitors C4 and C5 to 47nF (previously 22nF). That should do it.
I would consider switching the coupling capacitor from 100n to perhaps 10n, 15n or 22n on a switch to tighten up the tone which would be more noticeable using a rig with a larger speaker cab and of course volume would factor in as well.
Bass artifacts that are not part of the natural guitar tone drive me nuts so this is a mod I often employ to help cut back on that.
Reversing them is the correct thing as they are not the same pinout.
+1 Cybercow per Mark Hammers notes here:
https://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=56187.0
Glad you got it working.
I see the error now. I have been completely redoing all the build docs (100) of them and that one got me.
I will switch those wires in the diagram. Apologies for the confusion.
Here is the Klingon Muff thread: https://guitarpcb.com/forums/topic/klingon-muff-story-of-a-modded-muffn/
Here is the new MUFF’N 2020 Build Doc
The search Bar is on the Forum Home Page.
I am not able to check many things that I would want to. What does your Jumper system on the back look like? Does it match the silkscreen for a coolaudio chip? I believe that is the chip you are using? I cannot verify your In/Out to Jack connections etc..
You need a CLR for all LEDs or they will blow even if connected for a second. It would also depend on the switch position if it is On/Off LED. It looks like you have the CLR installed on the Buffer board.
The only way I would troubleshoot this myself is by a hands on approach rechecking wiring and testing for continuity using a multimeter.
It doesn’t matter what gets power first as long as both boards are sharing the power and ground.
