@barry
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I can’t trace the wiring with those pictures. If there is no sound at all in effect mode then it is likely a wiring issue.
If there is sound in effect mode then there could be a number of other things to check like the Roto-Tone.
Also the O pad on the Buffer Board looks like it may have lost a pad? Hard to tell but that would also be an issue.
That image above looks correct in all ways. Billy explained what the image shows.
You are basically running a power and ground to share between two boards. There is usually more than one way to do this and as long as they accomplish the task it is all good. Some make slight changes to keep wire lengths short and that could depend on where you like to locate your power jacks for example. That is why we offer multiple pads to suit different styles. At any rate that looks good.
This also follows a similar process as our 3PDT Wiring Boards.
You may want to compare some diagrams from that Build Document.
I am planning on doing a more colorful presentation for the Buffer Board diagram but I have not gotten to it yet.
I drew this up real quick as one working example.
Green is Board I and Board O, Yellow is to TIP Jack Wiring.
Red = Power – (Extra 9v Pad connects to Power Jack)
Grey = Ground (Extra Ground Pad connects to Power Jack)
I hope that helps.
Nice rack there Big-O
I taught guitar lessons in a store that had a ton of Randall gear and I always thought they were under appreciated.
You ever consider putting a Gramma under that whole rack for isolation from the floor?
The only thing I need to get OCD about after seeing the photo is drinking more water. Not just in coffee form.
Typically I can find them that match exactly after testing a few but that is pretty close.
I never mismatched them to see the difference.
As Wilkie pointed out matching the resistors and diodes will help also. They have a tolerance.
Yah we were playing Led Zep, Bad Co., Jethro Tull and stuff like that so Marshall / Orange arrangement really worked.
Holy Doom!
Sounds like if Morphine (the band) and Sleep had a baby then gave it up for adoption to King Buzzo.
This was my rig circa 1982 but the only photo I got is when I lent my Model T to the Bass player while he saved up for a new amp so my Model T is on his Ampeg and I got my spare Peavey on my Sunn 610L speaker cab which you can only see half of.
When I used my rig properly it was rocking. It was the only amp we had with enough balls to power Dave’s Ampeg so I sacrificed for a couple months.
I need to ask if you have ever played a Octavia or Green Ringer type of circuit before?
The reason is that it is not a pretty sound (straight up) to many guitarists. It is meant for single note soloing type stuff with FUZZ.
I ask because “sounding like crap” is extremely subjective. For example if I played some Doom riffs in Drop A for some folks on here (Wilkie1) would likely say that sounds like crap while others may send me gifts and rewards.
If you have used a similar circuit before knowing what to expect and it does not sound like that then we should examine if there is an issue. Namely matching the capacitors is recommended. You should use the suggested transistor as well.
Here is a video of BYOCs version:
Tom I just sent Klaus a batch and made sure I set them in front of my speakers for several hours while playing my best Doom riffs in a Drop A giving them some extra Doom mojo. I am sure they will arrive soon and be ready for you.
@ Richard: Dude that is some serious DOOM!
The Jumper pictures above are from the correct manual. Both are listed.
I have not checked Musikdings site to be sure what version they have listed but i will.
Here is the link to be sure:
https://guitarpcb.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/Mini-Me-2020-Build-Document.pdf
You can use whatever type of Jumper you want since it is not going to touch anything else. No difference.
I am sorry but are we all looking at the correct build document?
The one needed is the 2020 version which is listed on the Shop page as well as the Masterlist on the guides page which shows clearly how to use the Jumpers. The other doc is for a previous version that would only allow for the MN3007 chip and nothing else.
https://guitarpcb.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/Mini-Me-2020-Build-Document.pdf
Wire it to any ground. It must be connected as it is on a separate plane.
Build Notes:*There are (two ground pads), G & GND. Both ground pads must be wired to ground for the circuit to function. Connect both directly to the power supply ground for optimal noise free performance.
I have just not had a chance to finish updating that doc yet.
That value if reduced to say 12k can produce bigger dwells but also bigger chance of oscillation so we avoided making it a thing for now.
This is the manual for our 3PDT Wiring Board found on our Guides Page.
https://guitarpcb.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/06/BD_3PDT-WIRING-BOARD.pdf
