@barry
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Looks like Ins and Outs are backward.
Looks like you have OKF Out T pad (white) connected to 3PDT wiring board BI pad (which should connect to 3PDT BO pad.)
Then the same deal with the other side probably. Hard to see.
Then your 3PDT wiring board I Pad will connect to TIP of your Input Jack and the O Pad will connect to the Output Jack TIP. Remembering they are reversed when you flip the pedal over to use it.
You have to keep your Ins with your Ins and Outs with Outs.
Personally I would just switch your two white wires (Out T pad & In T pad) on the OKF board with each other and see if that fixes everything.
For C1 you can use anything from 100nF (0.1uF) clear up to 220nF or even larger for bass or baritone guitars and there will be no difference sonically as any of those will allow all standard guitar frequencies through regardless.
As for the clipping switch, it is only a subtle difference when combining Silicon with LED. The biggest difference would be just opamp but again there is still a lot of clipping happening anyway so it is not a huge difference. The differences would be more noticeable at louder volumes.
You might try just using an SPDT on/on or removing it altogether.
Other than that I am not sure what else I can suggest for the clipping switch.
It is good that you have a working circuit now.
First things first. Clarify this comment for me, please.
“Ok I’m making real progress (I now have Fuzz) so thank you”
Does it mean you have more volume now than before? More fuzz than before? Both?
You said in your first post you had fuzz but the volume was “extremely quiet”
“turn all pots to maximum and my amp to full vol to hear any fuzz (its there but extremely quiet)”
Please elaborate on what has changed.
“Should R1 & R3 be grounded as per the schematic?”
Yes. The pads are connected directly to the ground plane (no trace). It sounds like the pads are damaged. Before you can expect anything else to work, you must correct the problem to Q1 which is the very beginning of the circuit. You will have to find a way to connect the bottom pad of both R1 and R3 back to the ground if it is not just a bad solder joint. You probably want to try another reflow first.
Note on your original photo (reposted below, zoomed in) these would be the pads just above the M1 and M2 sections. The solder joints for both pads are not soldered properly likely resulting in a cold solder joint. Your reflow looked very good to me but it was not necessary to remove the original solder (which might damage the pads) A reflow is just reheating the original solder and perhaps adding a touch more.
Since Playsforfun mentioned the voltage in Q1 that I overlooked, I quickly glanced at your value for R5 and you have a 47k instead of a 470k.
It looks like you did the same thing for R10 and R15. Also, R19 should be 470k.
I would recheck all values on your board again.
I would start by reflowing the entire project.
I see a lot of dull solder joints and a few pads lacking solder.
Flip it over and reflow all board solder joints one at a time and have some solder handy while doing it. Your solder joints should be like tiny little shiny Hershey kisses and not flat, dull, or sunken in.
Take your time. Don’t overdo it with solder either. Just one bad solder joint will cause a board not to work.
The ones circled below initially jump out at me but I would slowly and carefully reflow the entire project using a conical tip.
Never mind the two on the left as I see that is an intentionally uninstalled resistor. You have the best view of your board so try and make all your solder joints as I described.
Has anyone else experienced this with the green Russian?
I have never had an issue and I have never seen a reported issue like that.
You have a build issue.
Just checking to make sure I read the build docs correctly, if I stick a buff n blend on a Muff’n it is functionally an Animal with a blend control, correct?
Yes.
Also, the Muff’n does not invert the phase so you can use a Buff N Blend stock.
When you are just starting out it is best to build stock first to make sure everything works before adding on mods. I cannot tell by the photo provided what the switch wiring looks like. I would remove it and build it stock. Also, we cannot see the back of the board or the off-board wiring to jacks etc. This is why it is extra hard for us to make a suggestion.
I checked out my version.
I get anywhere from “off” to “below unity” between 8:00 to 9:00 (with switch in hottest mode) and Gain Full Up. Also hottest pickups guitar.
From 9:00 to 10:00 it hits unity.
10:00 to 11:00 is slightly above unity.
When you built your stock version I am guessing you wanted unity to be at 12:00 maybe?
If that is the case then you do not have a build issue. You just need to put the Volume at 9:00 and leave it there. (This will vary based on pickups) My Strat I can easily go to 11:00 before reaching unity.
Once you pulled the 10M and started using variables of (K) resistors then that would have not been near enough resistance since you need 10M (million) at the bare minimum. This would explain why you heard no difference in distortion anymore.
As for the boost, it is not a volume boost so much as a distortion enhancement or (tone boost).
Here is a quick video I made. Gain = full up / All stock values
At 5 seconds Volume = 9:00,
at 9 seconds in Volume = 10:00,
at 20 seconds in Volum = 11:00.
If this is similar to yours then you do not have a build issue.
Pickups will make a difference and where you put the Gain knob will make a difference.
If all of that sounds like you and you need to have unity at 12:00 instead of 9 or 10:00 you can kluge a resistor between lug 3 of the volume pot and the wire going to the board for lug 3.
What that resistance is for you I am not certain but that is what I can recommend.
I hope that all helps.
Page one of the new build document lists the only differences:
It was redesigned to use on-board pots and incorporate a better circuit protection diode.
If you have a working one and do not need a 2nd working one there is no reason to.
Thats it.
So I see the issue now by double-checking your stripes.
Recheck R3 and R4? Try the stock values of 330k and 10M respectively.
Right now it looks like you have a 100k resistor in both locations.
R4 must be 10M. = Br, B, B, Gr, Br
R3 and R4 directly affects the Gain of the circuit.
Let us know how that works out.
I believe that C1 is the correct MLCC. Zooming in looks like Code 473 which is 47n.
You are probably are going to need to sketch this out.
Be sure the pots are not wired backward. So when turned all the way down it is actually all the way up.
Sounds silly maybe but it happens. Also, it seems as though the pots are hand wired which makes me think it is a possibility. There is a small 1 by each potentiometer pad (back of the board) that should be connected to Lug 1 and so on.
