@barry
Forum Replies Created
-
Posts
-
D6 Germanium looks backward compared to board silkscreen. Unless they are Russian diodes in which case D7 is backward.
Clear, well-lit photos will be helpful as well as voltage at 9v point and bias voltage.
Any substitutions should be listed if any.
You have an additional short somewhere.
I would remove the circuit board from the enclosure entirely and test it by itself (no additional mod boards) You may have to replace the transistor or LED if they were damaged.
It is too hard to see but also make sure your audio wire from the 3PDT is going to the Jack TIP and not RING. I would not use stereo jacks unless I were using a battery. Also not sure why there are loose nuts stuck between the jack and copper in the photo. That is a short ready-to-happen after inserting the guitar cable.
You would use the 1N4001 in that version. You can see the difference in the schematic comparison. It is not just the diode that changed but the design as well.
No signal in bypass means the off-board wiring (In – Outs) is incorrect, faulty foot switch, or faulty jacks.
In other words, you are not getting a signal to pass from the In jack through the 3PDT to the Out jack with the main board entirely bypassed.
There is no way to trace the off-board wiring with the photos provided. (no jacks in photos)
With the new Diamond Drive, a 1N5817 circuit protection diode was used. You cannot simply replace that part as the board is designed differently to accommodate this new circuit protection scheme which is superior.
During the design phase of the new board, the coupling capacitors were “tightened up” for a more Vox-like tone. You can replace these by comparing the BOM and Part numbers. I would warn against ruining any of the pads by stressing them with heat and force during removal. It may be better to purchase a new board and then you can truly compare side by side. The differences will be subjective to the amp you are using, speaker cabinet, overall volume, and tuning.
I know you are excited but take your time and go over everything. It will prevent issues later since likely you are not going to be doing any modding right out of the gate. Again we provide options for different levels of builders.
Below is from the main build document. This explains it all. If you are building a standard Klon do not use TR1.
Just yesterday this guy posted a Modded MKC thread. Again I am pretty sure this is not what you are going for but we do have these options for those that do.
https://guitarpcb.com/community/topic/horsepower-mkc-w-mods/
Simply put TR1 is there just in case you want to experiment.
R25 is the current limiting resistor (CLR) for a Status LED (D3) on the main board. (It can be anything from 1k8 to 4k7) It is not necessary for the circuit to work and it is not mandatory to install a status LED to the main board either. We just provide options for many diverse builders. It can also be soldered to the 3PDT wiring board with an LED installed there, for example. You would only install the CLR (R25) on the main board if you plan to connect the status LED to the main board (D3).
Did your kit have instructions for the Status LED included? Did your kit come with a 3PDT wiring board?
I know that PP&K includes a “special sheet” explaining this since they do include a 3PDT wiring board with their kits. I cannot say for sure since I do not know where you got your kit.
At any rate, there should at least be a CLR for you to work with whether it is going on the main board or a 3PDT wiring board.
I had a similar need regarding the instrument switching and after much reading, pricing & debating this is what I ended up doing for many reasons. Namely, the work, time, and materials involved did not stand up to this pro-quality product for the price.
Note regarding the price. You may find a used model on Reverb?
Inaudible instrument switching: The whole point of the Lehle 3at1 SGoS instrument switcher is that your audience shouldn’t know you’re switching instruments without seeing you do it. That means no pops, no clicks, no hum while you grab your next instrument. Just leave them all connected to the Lehle 3at1 SGoS, and it’ll take care of the switching silently and reliably. How? Gold-plated relay switches with pop/click suppression – professional grade circuitry for serious performance.
Mix and match instruments and sources: You may have found the Lehle 3at1 SGoS looking for a solution for your guitars or basses, but it can handle virtually any instrument with ease. Acoustics with piezo pickups, passive or active pickups, and even line-level sources are accommodated by the 3at1 SGoS. And inputs A and B have gain adjustments, so you can balance all connected instruments and sources relative to input C.
- Silent switching for up to three instruments
- Versatile inputs handle electric instruments, piezo pickups, and line-level sources
- Gold-plated relay switching and pop/click suppression provide sonically transparent performance
- Stereo signal path makes it ideal for stereo effects processors
- Programmable via MIDI for configurable functionality
https://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/LE3AT1
That said please comment with other suggestions if you have them.
Hi there.
This is indeed a typo. The value we decided on for the parallel resistor (R6) should have been 330k and not 3.3k
This would give you a pot value of 140k roughly. We felt that 250k (the next available pot value) was too much.
That said you can use a 250k pot and leave (R6) the parallel resistor empty, (no jumper). If you think it is too much then you may put whatever value works best for you.
Thank you very much for pointing this out. The build document has been updated.
I used to play cassette tapes of Gordon Lightfoot, Cat Stevens, and Jim Croce to my crib-aged children to keep them content while sleeping. It was something about their voices. R.I.P.
