@barry
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Very nice again!
Thanks for sharing.
FYI the first in my new NostalgiTone series “Dual Combos” Beano Bundle is now available.
That looks fantastic!
Thanks for posting. I like how you are thinking.
You will definitely be excited about what is coming soon.
Here is a little sneaky peak.
This is a 1590BB2 enclosure positioned in landscape orientation, featuring a dual wiring board with integrated order switching. Inside, you’ll find two distinct NostalgiTone PCBs tailored to match specific styles, genres, or tones. This configuration creates a tone powerhouse while occupying minimal pedalboard real estate. You have the option to connect via a pin header or neatly tuck a ribbon cable underneath, thanks to the height differential.
I would re-flow Volume pot lugs, and C2. You can also replace C2 if that does not work.
If you need more assistance after that create a new thread with clear pictures and description.
Well done! Thanks for sharing!
I like the minimal letter stickers, in lower case especially, to show what is what.
I am sure that when your wife adds a bit of art to it it will be perfect. Be sure to post it!
I did make a mistake when I released the DSOTM with regard to Mosfet choice.
I discovered the error not long after and updated the build document and sent out multiple emails with the subject as Urgent Update disclosing the change over the following week. If you download the build document again you will see the change.
Regrettably, you missed the update and the email notifications. I apologize for your inconvenience.
I am glad you got it sorted out. 🙂
The circuit is not biased for 2N7000.
Now get a good and proper Show Off post done!
I need you to clarify a few things. It is best to rule out anything possible up front.
- Do any of the circuits work on their own with adequate volume etc? Explain for each.
- If the Wattamp does not work explain which type of Mosfets used, give voltages for all three, and details for what specifically is wrong. Low volume, no sound at all, noises, etc.
- If the Fuzz does not work give voltages for all 3 transistors and explain the details. Low volume, no sound, noise, etc.
- If the Phaser does not work give voltages for the transistors, and both IC chips, and details.
Keep issue specifics, voltages, and details separated for each circuit.
List any substitutions made.
You may need to dig that probe out.
Lastly, be careful to avoid excessive bending of the ribbon cables/foot switches. You can sever a connection without realizing it.
Each circuit functions on its own. I would be surprised if all three circuits acts that way individually. Try to narrow it down.
If for some odd reason all 3 are low volume (individually) then I would use an audio probe to find out where something is wrong. If it is just a single circuit then less troubleshooting. Otherwise, do the normal reflow, check for firm Mosfet placement, orientations, etc..
Look for bad resistor values such as K values when it should actually be R (ohm) values etc.
(common mistake)
A lot of material was lost a very long time ago in a site crash. V2 was a very limited run.
That said it is all the same BOM and schematically. Cosmetic component placement changes only.
Be sure to use the actual T Pad for in and out Audio wiring and not the extra ground pad right beside by mistake. That was the main reason for a change at that time. We highlighted the silk screen for that T Pad. While we were at it we made a few minor cosmetic changes but nothing regarding how to build or populate.
I was able to find the advanced section online and take 3 screenshots.
I hope that helps.
Build document drill guide has been updated. Download the build document again and be sure to refresh so you are not getting a cached copy. You will be able to tell as it will be exactly 20% larger than the previous one. Thanks for pointing it out.
I am glad you found the explanation useful. FETs only need matched because of their extremely poor tolerance. With LDRs you only need to use the correct part.
I am glad you are enjoying the Vibe.
“Similar circuits but the caps are different values.”
The pivotal element of the circuit lies in the phase shifting stage, dictating whether it will produce the sound of a Phaser or a Vibe. This distinction is true regardless of whether JFETs or LDRs are utilized. Opting for LDRs was my decision, primarily due to the continued availability of the components. The Vibe produces broad shallow dips, instead of the distinct notch of a phaser. The crucial factor behind this lies in the staggered capacitor values which distinguishes the Vibe from the Phaser.
Phaser:
Vibe:
The build looks fantastic!
Thank you for sharing, and congratulations on being the first.
There’s plenty to explore here, so enjoy the journey. In the WattAmp section, I envisioned the tone of the 1975 to 1977 live gigs, particularly during “Have a Cigar.” How epic was that? So, if you’re playing with a Strat and fine-tune your WattAmp for a touch of aggression, then layer in some Phaser, you should be able to capture that tone perfectly.
For anyone who might not be familiar with the tone I’m talking about, take a look at this:
The Vibe’s dedicated Volume control, is louder than bypass. However, maintaining headroom is crucial, especially with the abundance of gain and fuzz available to muddy the waters. By default, I would recommend using it with the toggle switch set towards the Vibe circuit.
Start by mapping the gain for the Fuzz, as it is the noisiest of the bunch. Set the Fuzz control to Noon or slightly lower, then adjust the Volume Control to just surpass unity gain when all other effects are bypassed. Next, bring in the Vibe effect and adjust its volume accordingly, with the Intensity around 1 o’clock. It’s crucial to ensure that the Fuzz circuit never becomes significantly louder than bypass, which it’s certainly capable of. This approach should provide enough headroom for introducing the Vibe effect without being lost in the noise.
When levels increase, then the results naturally become blurred.
The same gain mapping would apply when introducing the PlexAmp in tandem.I usually opt for a Yellow LED since they’re easy to find. You’re welcome to try a clear white LED, and if you’d like, add a cap as well. However, I’m not particularly convinced it will make a significant audible difference. In the end, I think focusing on the gain mapping will be more advantageous for fine-tuning your setup.I hope that helps.Well done and thank you for sharing.
Mainly, I’ve placed the trim pot not only for adjustment but also to provide some extra resistance, safeguarding the LED from blowing out. As stated in the build document, I concluded that the center was the best location for the trimmer. Your placement of the LDRs is fine.
Given that you’ve utilized sockets, a modification I might recommend is experimenting with 2N5089 transistors (I carry them) in the final two stages of the Fuzz circuit if you’re keen on pushing the boundaries. It may not replicate Hendrix precisely, but it sure adds an element of fun to the mix.
