@barry
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To be 100% clear.
You have a v.2 PCB in the photo.
v.2 requires reversing the orientation of C8 and C12 compared to the silkscreen on the PCB.
v2.1 does not require this.
“I do have a question for Barry about the Sriracha Fuzz + Emerald demo. Was the track recorded with the Sriracha Fuzz > Emerald or Emerald >Sriracha Fuzz?”
If memory serves it was probably Emerald Ring first.
If you look at the wiring diagram in the video you will see that if you flip it over as you would with the real pedal it would be Emerald Ring first as well.
I have no experience with this at all, but what about using it with a Buff N Blend.
The Emerald Ring is non-inverting so it will play nice with the Buff N Blend.
Very nice! Did you get the gloss layer for the print as well?
Be sure to post a new Show off thread when you are done.
An audio probe would make quick work of finding the problem.
I could suggest carefully examining for loose wire connections. Sometimes moving things around wire connections quickly become broken or loose. It just takes one. If something is hanging by a thread, redo it.
You could also check your IC and transistor voltages.
At the rate you are going Goodwill is your friend.
$5 and your good for the road. I wonder how many dual combos you could fit in there?
I cannot accurately follow the In and Out wiring (white wire) in any of the photos.
This is the best photo I see, but it’s inconclusive.
I also cannot see where you have common ground connecting the main board with the 3PDT wiring board. You can check for continuity between both PCBs by using any of the extra ground pads on each.
I see ground from power jack to main board but nothing from main board connecting to the wiring board, or alternatively from the main board to the In and Out Jacks, then to the wiring board. 6 and 1/2 dozen.
If there is no continuity then your problem may be as simple as to use any extra ground on the main board and connect it to any extra ground to the wiring board. That is why there are extra to accommodate multiple wiring styles.
For reference here is the wiring layout in the build doc. I am not suggesting you need to completely rewire identically however you will note the single grey wire connecting the main board and wiring board.
All of that said if you do have continuity by some means I am not seeing then the next suggestion is to do a re-flow in some spots. Let me know and I will make some suggestions.
That looks fantastic and I am loving the colors!
Thanks for posting.
I am glad you are enjoying the tones. The key for some great Zeppelin tone here is to run the amp side cleaner and use the Fuzz in tandem with a bit of edge. It is a lot of tone in a small box.
Hi,
The trimmer is to bias the Drain of Q9. This should be half the supply voltage so aim for 4.5v to 6v ballpark.
Use your DMM, put it on V for voltage reading. Put the black probe on any ground and put the red probe on the Drain leg of the transistor. Turn the trimmer till your DMM reads 4.5v to 6v.
Different multimeters and component analyzers use different test voltages and currents when measuring diode characteristics.
The Atlas DCA-55 is specifically designed for testing and analyzing semiconductor devices, including diodes, transistors, and more. For matching diodes, especially if precision is important, the Atlas DCA-55 is the better choice. It is designed for this purpose and will provide consistent and reliable measurements of the forward voltage drop.
There is no orientation with resistors.
Most of the capacitors are the same as well, except for electrolytic capacitors like the 10u which is why they are marked in some way, as well as being marked on the PCB silkscreen.
I think these two guides from our Guides Page will greatly benefit you.
As for R7 it is the CLR or current limiting resistor which is exclusively for the Status LED so you do not blow it out. If the Status LED is being mounted on the 3PDT wiring board then you must have the CLR also on the 3PDT wiring board.
I hope that helps.
You can only post a direct link to a photo and not a link pointing to a host.
Use the Picture Frame Icon to upload your photo alternatively.
The tan resistors do not necessarily mean they are wrong, they are just a different type. You can measure them using a digital multi-meter.
OR…
https://www.hobby-hour.com/electronics/resistorcalculator.php
I was not aware it was from a kit so if it was shipped with your kit then I expect it is tested and known for the correct forward voltage.
Did you dial it in properly as it is not the type of pedal that works in every setting. You have to dial it in for your specific guitar. The original this is based on has similar instructions.
I have just now noticed the potentiometer lugs. You should carefully re-flow them so the are filled in, and not open. Have a bit of extra solder handy when re-heating.
Here are two different pot images for example;
While the pots are bent up I would re-flow all solder joints for components just to be sure.
Then I would bend the pots back in place and re-flow the pots from the components side of the PCB.
Nobody is rude here or I will let them know to knock it off. 😉
The first thing that catches my eye is the diode which needs to be a germanium type and yours appears to be a silicon diode.
The forward voltage of a 1N34A germanium diode is typically around 0.3 volts. This is lower than the forward voltage of silicon diodes, which is typically around 0.7 volts. And yes, there are many folks selling silicon diodes as 1N34A germanium particularly on eBay.
A 1N34A Germanium should look something like this:
and not like this
If you have extra diodes you can test the forward voltage for yourself which is critical for the SWAH to Wah.
Again it needs to be around 0.3 volts.
I agree that it did not sound like circuit noise to me.
Glad you sorted it out. Don’t forget to post a show off thread.
There is no difference other than the protection diode which has nothing to do with the circuit.
The problem could likely be with the JFETs you are using to bias.
What type and brand are you using?
Where did you get them from?
