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BarryKeymasterVery nice! Thanks for sharing.
BarryKeymasterI always found this interesting. Thanks for sharing.
BarryKeymasterVery Nice! Thanks for sharing.
BarryKeymasterIf the issue is specific to Chrome, it’s likely due to either a VPN setting or an extension/Add-on using an alternate IP to hide your online presence. This may conflict with anti-spam measures on the site. Unfortunately, with the rise in online bots and hacking over the past year, robust security measures have become essential to protect users and customers.
Many bots and hackers use fake or masked IP addresses to hide their presence. If an IP address gets flagged as suspicious or harmful, it can trigger blocks, even if it’s being used by a legitimate user or Add-on. In this case, you or the Add-on may need to switch to a clean, unflagged IP or update the configuration.
As an alternative, you could turn off the add-on or browser security or try whitelisting GuitarPCB.com in the settings to turn it off when only entering GuitarPCB.
BarryKeymasterDoes it squeal constantly or only when everything is turned up?
Also the wire length is very long on your pots which may also be an issue. This PCB should use on-board pots to prevent that. Since I cannot see any off-board wiring I cannot make any comments there but one of the critical things to be careful of is having your power wiring running in parallel with any of your potentiometer wiring (since it is part of the audio path). That will cause noise in a high gain circuit like this one.
The best trick of all is an Audio Probe to make quick work of where the problem is.
Just follow the audio path from input to output.
BarryKeymasterYes a Phaser is at the opposite spectrum off a boost in difficulty however its nothing terribly difficult.
Check your off-board wiring. It sounds like an intermittent issue.
For example it looks like your ground and 9v could be making contact.
Also you should strip your wire and insert through the pad until flush with the PVC and then solder from the other side the same as a component lead on all wiring jobs and that will give you a stronger wire contact as well as prevent other issues down the road.

Once you have constant activated signal you will need to tweak the trimmer for the sweet spot.
After addressing all of that if you still have trouble you will most likely need to post FET and IC voltages according to the datasheet.
Here are another few areas of concern.

Check you do not have bad contacts or bridging on your power adapter.
Also with regard to the Jacks you should always have a strong mechanical connection between the wire and the lug before soldering.
BarryKeymasterCheck your off-board wiring as well. After manipulating your project you could have easily bent the wires too much and might be hanging by a thread. If that’s the case redo the wiring by clipping off excess, strip, and re-solder.
BarryKeymasterVery Nice. I am glad you like it and thanks for posting!
BarryKeymasterIt would be fine at 12v. as long as you are not using a 10v electrolytic.
BarryKeymasterSo many great 70s tones in that dual combo.
I think of old Rush (2112, Caress of Steel), Thin Lizzy, Foghat and so many more. Blues tones for days.
Add to that the ability to switch Order really makes a difference.
I might have to make an official Dual Combo for that.
Thanks for sharing.
BarryKeymasterYou cannot accurately test values in circuit. Some may be correct but many will be affected by other components in the path.
You absolutely must solder components for the circuit to work correctly.
BarryKeymasterDoes the LED pulse?
I would personally re-flow your solder joints by reheating the solder pad and then have a little extra solder handy to touch to the pad.
For example your Rate and Intensity joints do not look very filled in.


If that doesn’t help I would re-flow the entire project.

If that doesn’t help provide voltages for the ICs.
BarryKeymasterI edited your post so it was readable.
Not sure what was used to create all the excess code.
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As for your build, a properly functioning Tight Box has plenty of gain. No Afterblaster, or mods needed.
You will need to sort out the problem.
All GuitarPCB projects should be powered with a standard (neg tip) 9 volt supply. By using higher voltages you would increase the available clipping headroom and therefore end up with less available distortion.
If that doesn’t help then I suggest reflowing the entire project by using your soldering iron to reheat each of the pads and reflow the solder. While you are doing that have a little extra solder handy for any places where you might need it.
After doing that check to see how your project sounds.
Finally I encourage you to check out our Guides Page (Main Menu Bar)
It has a ton of excellent resources below the build manuals section.
BarryKeymasterWell done and thanks for sharing!
BarryKeymasterNice job again, thanks for posting.
I would like to see a video.
BarryKeymasterI do sell genuine BC183 in my Shop for far less than anyone else apparently.
BC183 also have very low Gain compared to others and a unique lead orientation as well so you have to be certain that your PCB is designed to match it or vice versa. Ideally you should have a schematic for your PCB to be certain. You can also bend the leads if you know the orientation on the PCB.
BarryKeymasterI have no idea. I would try and Google for a schematic and see if you can find one that matches your layout.
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