@barry
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You could change the Output capacitor C12 to 100n or 220n. That is where the main low end cut is happening. It is also the easiest Mod that won’t affect how the entire circuit is supposed to function.
If you do that be sure to report your findings.
For Bass I would also use the SW1 in the Up position: 10k (150k shorted). This is the fastest release.
Alternatively, this circuit could be played through a Paramix.
No life altering changes other than my OCD.
It is preventing any unwanted DC current flowing into the circuit.
I am much more interested in your resistance change.
So what are your results?
Yes, go big to see if you notice and then go from there.
A trimmer would be the best bet if it is not socketed.
Is the Bass guitar Active?
If you are hitting the front end of the Reverb with high output active pickups that will do it. Everything you have described including the crackling, only happens with the Bass, and the results of turning the Bass volume down sounds exactly like input clipping.
If the Bass is active I would suggest that the reverb is not going to work well with it and is not the fault of the Reverb. The Reverb is merely amplifying and extending the noise being caused by clipping the front end. Same as would happen on a mixing desk or recorder.
Excellent and thanks for sharing.
I have not tried it but I would be curious as to how the order would affect the Emerald Ring tones.
I just took a look back on a build that I did test which was combining the Sriracha Fuzz with the Emerald Ring and found that I preferred the Emerald Ring 1st if no order switching were implemented.
I don’t know anything about that format but when I use Google I get this:
You can convert .HEIC (High Efficiency Image Format) photos to JPG, PNG, or other formats using several methods:
1. Convert on Windows (Without Extra Software)
- Right-click the HEIC file and select Open with > Photos.
- Click the three-dot menu (•••) > Save As.
- Choose JPG or PNG as the format.
If this doesn’t work, you may need to install the free “HEIF Image Extensions” from the Microsoft Store.
2. Convert on Mac
- Open the HEIC file in Preview.
- Click File > Export.
- Choose JPEG or PNG, then save.
3. Online HEIC to JPG Converters (No Installation Required)
Use a free online tool like:
Simply upload the HEIC file, convert, and download the JPG.
It is printing precisely. All PCB Pot lugs match perfectly with printed ones. (see image below).
The problem is in your print settings.
Likely there is Print Scaling issue or you have the wrong paper size selected. (easy to do) That would also explain why you are always getting different results.
Set Print Scaling to 100% (Actual Size)
- Open the PDF in Adobe Acrobat Reader or your preferred PDF viewer.
- Press Ctrl + P (or go to File > Print).
- Look for a scaling option (usually in the print settings). or Advanced Settings
- Set it to “Actual Size” or “100%” (instead of “Fit to printable area” or “Shrink to Fit”).
Set Paper Size to Match Your Printer Settings
- Go to Layout > Size and ensure the paper size matches the one selected in your printer settings (e.g., Letter 8.5″x11″).
- If there’s a mismatch, the program may be shrinking content to fit the page.
I am sorry, but it actually requires a TL072.
There was an error when I re-upped the build document recently and for reasons unknown it reverted to an old version of that. It is fixed.
I highly recommend always posting voltage readings and clear photos (front and back) before replacing components, as excessive rework can risk damaging PCB pads and solder joints.
From your voltage report, it’s clear that Q1 is not receiving voltage. However, I don’t believe the transistor itself is faulty, since Q2 has proper readings.
- After reviewing your updated photo, I noticed that the resistor pad for R20 does not appear to be properly filled, which suggests a dry solder joint. Additionally, the circled PCB pad at R20 is directly connected to C11 and the collector of Q1 (square pad), which could be causing the issue.
- Also equally important is the C11 + and – pads (right beside the circled pad) look as though they may be bridged. Re-flow and wipe excess solder away to remove any potential bridge.
Update upon further examination: If that C11 + pad (circled) is burnt out (looks like it is) you will need to create a bridge instead. That will be a more delicate operation but it is very doable. If it were me I would remove R20 and replace with the same value but do not solder, or cut the lead with the burnt pad. Then bend the excess lead over and cut precisely to connect with the C11 + pad (square pad). Then solder it. You will still have to make sure that there is no bridge between the + and – pads of C11.
If that is the case use this image to create a bridge from the new R20 resistor to the C11+ pad (Blue) and then make sure there is no bridge where the Green Arrow points to.
Also, if you’re using only the LED as verification that your build is working be sure to set the Rate and Intensity controls to the midpoint or slightly lower for easier visual verification.
I printed it out and it matched the exact size of the enclosure. (see image below)
Are you sure you do not have any scaling going on. Did you refresh so you are not getting CACHED COPY?
I am very surprised no one brought this up sooner. Thanks for letting me know.
It was a margins setting preventing it from being correct.
Try now: https://guitarpcb.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/11/NostalgiTone-60s-Edition.pdf
All single transistor circuits are going to invert the phase. Though it only matters in a parallel or stereo rig.
I have not been marking circuits as inverting or non-inverting for a very long time so just because it is not marked doesn’t mean anything. Nobody ever seemed that interested. If a circuit is actually marked one way or the other in the shop then it is correct.
The NostalgiTone Ascension Boost uses a single transistor stage so it does invert the phase. Alternatively, the NostalgiTone Preamp Boost uses a non-inverting opamp so it does not. Also a reason to provide more than one type of Boost.
You can peruse some common circuits already listed here: https://www.thegearpage.net/board/index.php?threads/list-the-pedals-that-invert-phase.796444/
This is a Guide from our Guides Page:
https://guitarpcb.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/PHASE-FOLLIES-A-Phase-Inversion-Guide.pdf
