[Playsforfun]

So simple but so fantastic. Looks Great.

[Playsforfun]

Hey Matt. Welcome back. Resistance blocks some signal, whereas a jumper will let it all through like it wasn’t even there. 2 to 3 is correct.

Cheers

[Playsforfun]

Heck Yeah!

[Playsforfun]

Nice work on that Boogie. Thanks for the look and the ideas. Red means burning hot. Did you get a faceplate made?

[Playsforfun]

Excellent! I’m very happy about that. Rock on, man.

[Playsforfun]

Excellent photos Elio. So there is a nice trick I think I learned it from Wilkie1. It takes more time but it’s worth it if you have no pressing deadlines. For the off-board wiring touch each stripped wire end onto the soldering iron and let the jacket melt back a little and then cool before you insert it into the solder pad of the board. This makes the jacket at the end of the wire now to be tough against further melting. The end result is to have the jacket of each wire butt right upto the board so that nothing bad can ever happen in that spot. And it will look awesome. Also switch to pre-tinned wire like Barry’s in the shop. It makes life much easier. I’m going to copy and paste what I suggested for another fellow builder just yesterday. ” I solder at about 650-700 degrees and use a pointy tip which is great for Barry’s boards. And I swear, after a bunch of years, I still count seconds to be sure I gave enough heat for a good melt but don’t overdo it. Thousand one thousand two…  It’s important enough that I do it all the time. For example no more than 4 seconds on a mini switch tab or you will start to melt it. A full 6-8 seconds for a pot tab. Try to go too fast and you can get a cold joint which will allow the wire to pull right out. But for the boards be aware that the ground connections and many others connect to a plane of copper in the middle of the board instead of traces, the ground plane. I notice that these solder pads can take an extra second or two because you are heating a large area around the pad. They are visible with their crisscross design. If the solder looks weird it is weird and worth a second look.”

I say all that to give you the bad news that you probably have to reflow all of the solder joints and let the solder flow for sure before you pull the iron away. Let the heat do it’s job. There is too much solder in many spots and a good solder sucker is advised. As they say, the solder joint should look like a hershey’s kiss. Watch a couple short videos for technique and check out the combo build guide for some finished photos of what I’m taking about. You’ll need to get good at flowing the solder. I use solder with lead in it. And to get good at snipping off the ends closely and neatly. That should solve the problems. Another good hint is to have quality toothpicks on hand to help clean out stubborn solder. Sorry dude. Let us know what happens. Cheers

[Playsforfun]

Hey Elio. Welcome to the forum. Your pictures did not post. Most likely you have a ground problem or something touching something else that it shouldn’t touch. Don’t forget that bad pots do exist and can take a while to find. You can bypass the switches to see if the circuit works. When you repost pictures they will need to show a real clear front and back and all of the off board wiring. A mess of wires is hard to see though but several angles of pictures could help. Triple check all of your components against a color code chart where applicable. If you are using sockets make sure there are no bent pins under the IC. Let us know what you find out.

[Playsforfun]

I second those emotions. I solder at about 650-700 degrees and use a pointy tip which is great for Barry’s boards. And I swear, after a bunch of years, I still count seconds to be sure I gave enough heat for a good melt but don’t overdo it. Thousand one thousand two…  It’s important enough that I do it all the time. For example no more than 4 seconds on a mini switch tab or you will start to melt it. A full 6-8 seconds for a pot tab. Try to go too fast and you can get a cold joint which will allow the wire to pull right out. But for the boards be aware that the ground connections and many others connect to a plane of copper in the middle of the board instead of traces, the ground plane. I notice that these solder pads can take an extra second or two because you are heating a large area around the pad. They are visible with their crisscross design. If the solder looks weird it is weird and worth a second look.

This IS fun. Lots to learn and that’s what I like about it. But to learn everything that I just told you, I had to make the mistakes. Troubleshooting can be a long pta. But it is so interesting how to find some of these problems we run in to. Most of them are really dumb things we do at times. It happens. Rule of thumb, don’t double check, triple check. I’m a learn as I go guy. Built about 100 or whatever and I still don’t expect that it fires up right away. I make them kind of complicated to torture myself maybe but if it fires right up I’m thrilled like its ten years ago. Don’t give up yet. You’ll get on a roll and have a ton of fun. Happiness is a warm soldering iron.

[Playsforfun]

Yeah, I think so. That’s what I did and some of those still get me out of trouble sometimes.

[Playsforfun]

I moved this to its own topic for better responses.

[Playsforfun]

It’s probably a 0 ohms resistor, and yes, it is being used as a jumper. One reason to use them is prototyping and using these instead of copper wires. Easier to remove and resolder than wires and cheaper in the long run. Can also help with interference noises. Any wire in there could have been one. Other, more complicated, reasons exist for their use. Pretty dry reading.

[Playsforfun]

Congrats on getting it going. Tough build

[Playsforfun]

My money is on the only problem with that being “accidentally touched“. If the effect doesn’t work then there is a different issue. You should probably start the whole pictures and voltages process if so.

I would say you are inquisitive. Maybe high. Definitely inquisitive.

I think it beeped because you are freaking it out. Checking continuity on a hot circuit across + n – should not be done and can be dangerous at higher voltages. The meter isn’t telling you anything truthful. You simply put the probe where it shouldn’t be with the meter set to continuity.  My mother didn’t teach me not to stick things in the wall sockets either. It’s amazing what you can get done with seven fingers;)

[Playsforfun]

How do you test continuity across a hot positive and negative? And why do you want to try to? I think you may be using the word continuity instead of hot or showing power or having voltage? I’m confused but maybe you are on it with the DMM.

[Playsforfun]

If you really want the two drives in parallel with each other then you will need a Paramix instead of a BNB. Put one drive in the send/return loop and the other drive in the In/Out loop.

[Playsforfun]

Wow. I didn’t expect to see that. It looks like the flavors are all mixed up. Do you have to keep it in the fridge? Very cool idea.

[Playsforfun]

There is quite a lot happening there for a single circuit. Bravo! That’s a major undertaking. I like where your heads at. Welcome to the club.

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