[mybud]

If you have a DMM, the next logical step would be to provide voltages. Connect the black terminal to any ground point and use the other (red) terminal to check DC voltages on the ICs and transistors. Also worth checking that these are firmly seated in their sockets. No offence intended but a couple of solder points look worth reflowing but let’s get an idea of the current voltage readings to begin with.

[mybud]

Please post clear pictures of both sides of the board for starters.

[mybud]

Try covering the LED/LDR section with a dark cloth to eliminate ambient light for starters. Testing the pedal in normal daylight conditions won’t allow the LDRs to do their magic thing. Let us know if that changes things.

[mybud]

I’m getting 9V on the board, where the supply enters proceedings. As Billy says, the 3V voltage drop is odd.

I’ve just checked pin 1 of the 4558, which reads 4.5V (correct, since this is bias voltage = 1/2 of 9V). Is there a way you can bypass the DC socket and connect the adapter directly to the board?

[mybud]

Let me check voltages on mine. Give me a little while.

[mybud]

If you have indeed installed the jumper correctly (definitely required as Billy says), try slowly and gently adjusting the trimmer while playing through the pedal. There’s a fairly narrow band in which it operates so take it slow in small steps. If all else is well, you should hear the chorus effect. If not, then it’s audio probe time. There are instructions on how to make one hereabouts.

[mybud]

Great job there.

[mybud]

So sorry to hear this news. My condolences to his family and friends.

[mybud]

Thanks for this. Looks like a worthy project for breadboarding.

[mybud]

The CD4047 is available from Tayda, Mouser, and Digi-Key. Not sure about the N-suffix. Those I’ve ordered from Tayda seem to work fine.

[mybud]

Those look fantastic! Congrats.

[mybud]

Thanks, Barry.

[mybud]

Thanks, Barry. I’m going to post my (similar) problem in a clean thread.

[mybud]

AFAIK the extra two spaces are connected to the buffer, so that the circuit as it stands isn’t true bypass. There may or may not be an option to defeat the buffer to use the combo creator as is (for which option it’s probably wisest to wait for someone more in the know to chime in) or you could use the little 3PDT order switch board.

I’m in the same boat with the G2 Animal/Supersonic combo in the works but don’t want to hijack your thread meanwhile. Trusting someone will advise us in due course.

[mybud]

Yes, echoing these posts, seems like you’re on the right track as far as troubleshooting is concerned.

You might consider testing before boxing next time around. If the circuit works out of the box, it will probably work once boxed up and if not, you’ve eliminated the circuit itself as the potential problem. That means only having to check the offboard wiring (jacks, foot switches, and so on).

Best of luck with the Zoso.

[mybud]

You sense right, but first the G2/S2 combo that I’ve been wanting to do for a very long time…

[mybud]

I just built one and didn’t check the Hfe on the 109Cs. It works fine and sounds very cool. But agreed, if you’re concerned, try socketing them as Barry says.

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