@mybud
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Looking good, Brent. These days (FWIW) I try to resist the temptation to push through with builds when I’m tired, distracted, or not fully involved for whatever reason. But then I have the luxury of enough time on my hands to do so. When I was employed, different story, saying to myself “C’mon, just another solder joint, what’s to lose?” Often this would result in mistakes through haste or plain carelessness and much resultant cursing and lamentation. Naturally enough, YMMV.
Hi Trevara: I just had a peek at the buff ‘n’ blend build doc. It looks to me like you may have mounted the footswitch and LED on the opposite side of the board (upside down IOW). Normally the components (resistors, caps, etc.) should be visible when you mount the footswitch. Here’s a pic to verify:
I suggest you follow Barry’s advice and test the 250 separately first but seems to me the Buff ‘n’ Blend is where the problem lies.
It took me a fair while to realise there was life beyond 1590Bs and BBs in the shape of 125Bs. Till then, I struggled mightily shoehorning jacks and pots into enclosures that were just too small. Looks like you’ve got this under control, though.
Luck duly wished. Take it slow, tick off each component on the build list as you go, and enjoy. I’ve also ordered the Southern Fried board and will see how yours develops with great interest.
Have you tried gently tapping or wiggling the socketed transistors? Sometimes they don’t make a firm connection.
Not to mention the platform shoes…
Seriously though, great build, and couldn’t agree more about the professional quality of the NT series.
Looking good, and sounding likewise, no doubt. I should revisit my own build from some time back; thanks for the inspiration.
@Big O: Yes, of course you’re right but the variable here is customs duty and clearance fees which can add a lot of extra cost to the total. I supply the freight company with a clearance code which mitigates these a bit but still costly at times.
@Barry: Indeed yes. The temptation to engage all switches is strong, just because one can. Having the order switch gives one a wide range of options for tonal variations. My preference FWIW is fuzz into OD which seems to yield more bass, but versatile’s the name of the game here. Thanks again, folks.Points taken. I’m in South Africa, so finding a local print service means skipping the complicated learning curve of getting the Tayda stuff ready and then finding I’ve borked something (realist, not pessimist). I can call the person directly and sort problems out if needs be.
I’ve also drilled quite a few enclosures but I am not skilled in the basics and too impatient to do the necessary QC, about which I’m borderline fanatical when it comes to builds themselves. Another aspect of living here is the wait for stuff to arrive, between four and six weeks normally. So I’ve taken to planning ahead a bit more to alleviate things (r, not p again).
I hear you about Tayda for services but for components like pots and enclosures they are to me the bees’ knees. In any case, I think what Barry’s providing here with the NT series linked to Tayda’s services is really cool for the busier among us (wink icon here).
Thanks, guys. I’m moving on to the DSOTM next. Need to organise drilling and labelling first.
My last venture was so much easier when I farmed the printing out, to focus on the mechanics of the build itself. I could do the drilling but usually mess this up (not something I’m remotely skilled at) and want to avoid the usual frustration of things being off true.
Trust all your builds go without hitches meanwhile and thanks again.
