[mybud]

Inspiring as ever, CC. Valium for volume, a master stroke.

[mybud]

Fab, CC. Faroutness and grooviness personified!

[mybud]

Yeah, right on, Barry. One of the main indices of coolness in my adolescence was bringing really obscure (so-called ‘underground’) music to junior high school-era parties. In between the regular pop hits of the day, my co-conspirators and I would sneak onto the unsuspecting turntable such gems as ‘In-a-gadda-da-vida,’ the Kinks, Aum’s ‘Resurrection,’ Jimi Hendrix’ Smash Hits, ‘Trout Mask Replica,’ Quicksilver Messenger Service, Jefferson Airplane (no starships in sight yet), King Crimson, and various other audible proofs of our subversive coolness. The acid test was the degree to which the others objected to our selections.

Needless to say, wearing t-shirts advertising weed in the calvinist era of South Africa would have been the clincher, especially at the putt-putt course.

[mybud]

Great innovative combo builds, Chris. Maybe you should do a ‘Laughing Sam’s Dice’ build someday …

Best, mybud

[mybud]

Far out and groovy, CC. Fuzz Freddy’s cat?

Crumb’s cartoon characters might also provide a rich field for exploration.

Ah, reminiscences of my (misspent) youth …

Phreak Phuzz, I love it.

Best, mybud

 

[mybud]

With your high build standard, the sky’s the limit. Obviously, what you next build will depend on what kind of sound you have in mind to explore.

FWIW here are some of my favourites: Angry Llama, Black Dog, the T-Drive (all of which I have breadboarded and they sound great to my ears). More preamps-wise, the Guitar/Bass driver v2 and the Sunn-T both are fairly complex but versatile circuits. The MORC compressor also works well and minimally colours the signal. You could also try the pumped up Rangemaster, simple but excellent sound-wise.

If you’re feeling really adventurous, try the Dr Phybes phaser or the D’Lay. Barry has a deal on the matched quad 2N5952s for the Phybes as we speak. If you do decide on the Phybes, do by all means socket the transistors to save later grief.

Do let us know how you get on and what you decide on in due course.

Best, mybud

 

 

[mybud]

Excellent job.

[mybud]

Thanks as always. Will check it out and let you know.

[mybud]

Once again wilkie1: Apologies, I don’t seem quite to understand how this switch works.

Following the Sunn wiring diagram, I’ve wired the on-on-on as follows:

in attached pic, from top to bottom

1       NC                                4 diode 2 (-) brown lead

2        diode  1 (+) red lead    5 connected to lug 3 & diode 2 (+) orange lead

3        diode 1 (-)                    6 NC

Looking at the T-drive, I’ve wired orange to lug 2 (joined to 3) of the 500k drive pot. Red and brown go together to lug 1 (joined to 2) of the 50k treble pot. The various switch possibilities don’t seem to make a really big difference to the sound. So question is if I’ve wired this correctly? As always, any assistance greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance, mybud

 

 

 

 

[mybud]

Thanks for the prompt and clear reply, Wilkie1. Will check the Sunn diagram. Best, mybud

[mybud]

Hi and welcome Frode: There is some seriously classy documentation on a similar build from Cybercow (using a Red Special with the Tone TWEq) at Show off your build: <span class=”bbp-breadcrumb-current”>Red Ranger Special (Red Special & Tone TwEQ). Hope this helps, even if not exactly identical to what you have in mind. Best, mybud</span>

[mybud]

Sorry, I see that your pot wiring is correct. Thanks in any case; that’s a useful application for 9mm pots that’s new to me.

[mybud]

Have you checked that lug 1 of the pots (LHS with the lugs facing you) is connected to the lug 1 pad on the board?

[mybud]

Hi Andrew and welcome.

Some suggestions follow:

1) try the assemblage out of the box to see if the same symptoms obtain

2) if not, then there may be a problem with some part of the PCB shorting to the enclosure. As a first step after these, try carefully reflowing the solder joints (preferably remove the transistors beforehand, as they don’t like excessive heat). Do this as systematically as possible and try again. AFAIK it’s quite unusual to fry an entire circuit.

Then, if these steps produce no change, try replacing the transistors, which should be easy as you’ve socketed them. Double-check the pinout if they are different from the originals. There is quite a wide range that the board will accommodate. It may or not be that the 9V hot has somehow fried them. Speculating here, subject to correction from the moderators …

Have a look at the audio probe option as well. Not quite sure where this is found within the forum categories, but this gives you a way of tracing the actual audio as it passes through the circuit. A very useful troubleshooting tool.

Best of luck.

 

 

[mybud]

1. Buff n Blend in place, after removing the original contents.

2) All three circuits in place.

3) I’m not overfond of splicing cables together like this, and wouldn’t do this with a new build as a rule. But this was a mod to an already finished pedal as I mentioned.

4) Ready for action …

5) In all its technicolor glory, and sounding great IMHO. Next task: modding a TS Ultra with an added Julius for good measure. Compressor before overdrive, or vice versa? Time (and bench-testing) will tell…

[mybud]

Hold on a second though, isn’t that what P1 is supposed to do in the first place?

[mybud]

Maybe try clipping a pot across the operative points. If you use croc clips, then you don’t have to commit to the PCB until you’ve tested it out. From the look of the schematic, it should work but you might need a nominal value to prevent the pot from cutting out at either end, say 1k or so.

[Author]

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