@billy
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Looks excellent
I’m a fan of relic’d pedals you’ve done a fine job of messing it up haha
I’ve done perfectly pristine etches then sanded and scraped everything off
Just for you here’s one from way back I also sanded off some of the clearcoat around the toggle as you can see
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1VmHC25giDuEgL0egLflFosZrKg_mn4AY/view?usp=drivesdk
You must have a dead short if Q3s getting really hot check you don’t have continuity from Q3 collector to ground also check the transistor socket for continuity
Everything that I can see looks correct
Do you have an audio probe to try and locate where volume drops out
Post all you IC and transistor voltages
Post some pics so we can clearly see all component values and orientation
It could be a number of things causing low output poor in or out jack connection, incorrect value for the 150K mix resistors etc
Post some pics so we can see and trace all of your offboard wiring to 3PDT, in and out jacks and DC jack
I don’t know if different manufacturers have different pinouts but D and S pins are opposite on this pinout I used Barry’s through hole ones on my build at 0.79c each you can’t beat that price
Where did you get your smd ones
Here’s the older V2 build doc showing original components
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1uYPJ3Xy4PkEpZeyWUt-l5G5aVWGdA7kN/view?usp=drivesdk
It’s passive so I would try it after the clipping diodes
I’d omit C6 and put the input of the tonestack to C6 non grounded pad and output to volume 3
You want to place it after the amplification stage IC1 to avoid output attenuation
@Wilkie1 or Cybercow are the men for this so they may have a better idea
Use the standard 2 outer pads looking at the pcb image the square middle pad connects to the right hand side outer pad the other outer pad to ground you could continuity check to verify as you can see in the schematic one side of R9 connects to R10 the other side to ground
I’m not sure why the square middle pad is there maybe for 1/8th watt resistors if you use a weird value you can’t get in 1/4 watt size
All the very best to everyone
I hope you all have a splendid time and enjoy a wee bit of family excess
You can just use one pole of the 3PDT footswitches as single pole switches although I’d just purchase an SPST on/off and SPDT on/on toggle switch
Rather than use the more expensive 3PDTs
A 3PDT switch is basically 3 x SPDT on/on switches side by side in one package, lugs 1, 2, 3 is an SPDT on/on as is 4, 5, 6 and 7, 8, 9 and using just 2 lugs the middle common and an outer lug would give you an SPST on/off lugs 1 and 2 for example
You can leave it or bridge it, it’s wired as a variable resistor that’s why it only uses 2 lugs to vary the bias resistance as you turn it
Using lugs 1 and 2 as you turn it up resistance increases as opposed to using lugs 2 and 3 where it would decrease as you turn it up
Use a DPDT on/on switch Bill don’t populate C3
Wire the switch centre lugs to the A and B pads and your two capacitors to each of the two outer switch lugs like this
Regarding the link you’d need to insert .webs into the URL
http://www.guitarpcb.webs.com/blah/blah/blah that takes you to the old site forums etc, I don’t know if it’s still being hosted though
What voltage do you get on the left side of R8 that connects to the LED anode
If you’ve got a spare LED check it’s forward voltage or you can check in diode mode on the LED pads you may not get an accurate reading in circuit but at least it’ll let you know it’s conducting in a forward direction
I initially though the LED was wired in reverse but from what you say that’s not the case
Are you saying when you short lug 4 LED cathode and lug 7 circuit out the LED lights fully?
I would continuity check your grounds try not to touch the wire ends for example checking S5 touch S5 pad and 3PDT lug 5 without touching the yellow wire
