[Billy]

That all looks good to me I’m taking it you’re wiring the CLR and LED to the other board if so you wouldn’t need to worry about 9v as you’ll know

As you have it your SW and GND pads go to the correct 3PDT board pads

I thought the 3PDT board did have a trace from 1 to 6 but again as you say not absolutely necessary

[Billy]

Check the voltage you get on the left side of R8

GPCB boards are the same as any other it should work outside the box

Hum or buzz as you say is usually a ground fault or loose wire

I would suggest continuity checking all LED  connections including the 3PDT centre pole

 

[Billy]

That should work check on the LED legs you get continuity from R8 left side to LED anode and cathode to ground put your meter probe on the actual LED legs / pins

Also check voltages on both legs and the left side of R8 is it just a standard colour LED you’re using and not ulra violet or something with a higher forward voltage

Check you get continuity between 3PDT lugs 4 and 5 in effects mode

It could of course simply be a dry joint you can’t always tell visually if you have one I’ve had nice shiny joints that were dry

*edit just noticed you’ve got heatshrink on the LED legs  just try reflowing R8 joints, the LED pads, pads S4 and 5 and 3PDT lugs 4 and 5

[Billy]

Your results certainly seem to suggest you do indeed have a dodgy 7660S

I’ve had a few but usually one’s with a high pitched oscillation

Definitely make yourself an audio probe you can make a very simple one like this solder a 100n to 1u film or ceramic capacitor to the tip of a mono jack socket and a wire to the other side of the capacitor with something for the probe soldered to the wire end, I’ve used solid core wire here, then solder a wire to the sleeve with a small clip for grounding it

Here’s a PDF that explains how to build Bruce’s more pro looking probe, how to use it and how to trace the audio path

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1T9OsJ0riQhm1QFWPfNQ5q5guikuFKDRN/view?usp=drivesdk

[Billy]

C9 as you can see is the capacitor that inverts the 7660S output voltage with its + tied to ground so as such not part of the effects circuit but part of the power supply circuit

The 7660S section in this circuit is exactly the same as in the datasheet so I’m not sure a tried and tested method for a simple voltage inverter is the problem it’s more than likely, that particular 7660S or a cold solder joint, bad ground etc,  unfortunately not all components of the same type are created equal I’ve built this circuit many times without problems

Did you put the ‘good’ 7660S in the noisy circuit to see if it made a difference

What are your transistor CBE voltages

To me your audio sounds more like DC getting into the audio path

Do you have an audio probe this could help identify where the noise gets into the circuit and eliminate external problems like noise from other nearby electronics

[Billy]

You can take voltages on your IC and transistor pins to check, the matched FETs should be fine flipped

Flipping the ICs means you inverted the voltage ie pin 4 ground would connect to power and pin 8 power would connect to ground

If you didn’t have the ICs flipped too long they should be fine

FETs you want just over 2 to 2.5v on the gate pins (set using the trimmer) or it won’t phase

[Billy]

You’re right Bruce I meant musikdings phaser build doc

I confused myself with the mention of musikding their own phaser build doc shows 5952 and 5457 pinouts

Andreisidro you have a few solder joints that look like they may be dry I’d reflow those hold your iron on them for around 4 seconds until you see a nice solder flow

Your G2 connection also looks like it could do with a reflow

I wouldn’t change anything unless you have a reason to flipping the ICs could damage them for example

Make sure your in cable goes to the in jack with the pcb out of the enclosure and the wrong way around it’s easy to plug your in to your out and visa versa that would still give you bypass but no effect signal

 

[Billy]

Musikding supplies both 2N5952 and 2N5457 as Christian said they have different pinouts which do you have 5952 or 5457

They show in their build document which way round you should install them

[Billy]

Can’t see what’s going on with your CLR on the 3PDT pcb you need a resistor soldered in there to limit current to the LED rather than just held by the bent resistor pins which I think you’ve done can’t tell if you’ve soldered it to the other side? If not and it’s dislodged it could blow your LED

It sounds like you’re just getting bypassed clean signal ( red LED) and nothing when switched to effects mode (yellow LED) is that correct?

Let us know what matched transistors you’re using and where you got them from as Christian said

Have you tried adjusting the trimmer

 

[Billy]

Very difficult to see as Chuck says your photo is out of focus, the pads are double sided so you can solder to the other side if required or hardwire it, if it doesn’t work

[Billy]

Michael if you go to the guides page here there’s lots of beginner friendly information

The GUIDES PAGE – Mandatory Reading for all!

Have a look at the beginners guide to effects pedal components that should give you a good grasp of components used

[Billy]

The v4.5 isn’t actually voltage Steve it’s referring to board versions

So you’re good to go if it’s a 1N5817 schottky diode

I’m not sure where you get your 5v1 rating unless it’s a zener? The 1N5817 is rated for up to 20v used for reverse polarity protection because it has a low forward voltage so less voltage drops out

From build notes:

** New v4.5 version adds D2 (1N5817) Circuit protection Diode.

 

[Billy]

9 times out of 10 you’ll usually find when you get wierd goings on, crackles and hums it’s a power problem either dodgy ground, poor connection or inverted power connections, centre positive DC jack or power supply

If you check voltage to the main pcb power pads and get either 0v or – 9v etc, a minus or anything but +9v tells you it’s inverted or yuv got poor solder joints etc

Any troubleshooting is a process of elimination first thing you should do is visually check all component values and orientation, check solder joints for potential dry joints or bridges, then as you’d done check all offboard  wiring connections

If you got 0v you’d simply check all your solder joints have good connections and trace it back to where power comes from in this case from +9v, D1 cathode through R6 to VA then up to all your VA points you can see on the schematic, which should all be around the same

You’re always learning and the more you do it you’ll begin to recognise symptoms eg what mis biased transistors and ICs sound like and so on

Glad you got it going

[Billy]

These ones stand out you can see some look dry and don’t appear to have good solder adhesion between component and pad

I’d also reflow any ball like joints they may be dry inside as I say just reflow for around 4 seconds with your iron set to around 370°C

[Billy]

All component values and orientation that I can see look correct, does it do the same out of the enclosure

It does sound like a power fault hence the questions

Do you have a multimeter if so check what voltage you get on the main pcb ground and +9v pads

Some of your solder joints look as if they lack solder

Add a touch more, heat the pad and component pin for around 4 seconds and add a little solder you want a nice shiny adhesion between pad and component

[Billy]

I should have said a pic of the front face of the DC jack so we can see which solder lugs your wires go to

Everything looks correct I can’t make out whether your power wire goes to the middle battery lug or top lug

Edited

[Billy]

Can you post a pic of the DC jack so we can see the connections to it

What are you using to power it and which transistors are you using

 

[Author]

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