@barry
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The value of C1 was 10uF however that is a ridiculously high value for a coupling cap. Probably because that is what they had in stock at the time and wanted to use them up. Since that value would not limit Bass response it wouldn’t matter.
The point is if you are using for Bass guitar you do not need to go higher than 200n (way below the 10uF).
You will notice that all other builds list 100n which allows more than enough Bass frequency through for even a de-tuned guitar or Baritone.
So as long as you have an extra 100n or 200n or anything close that is completely fine.
In no way is there a need to have 10uF. It is just a coupling capacitor.
From the Guides Page:
https://guitarpcb.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/Combo-Build-Wiring-Tutorial.pdf
or use some non-conductive double sided adhesive if you need to.
Very Nice! I am glad to see people using my Mod Boards.
That is very neat for a robust switcher.
BTW: I absolutely prefer Vibe and Phase before Dirt. That suits my style. That said I can see how others might prefer a post-Dirt setup so this is a great tool. If you enjoy this kind of thing the Paramix is another essential tool.
I love this. A simple Black and White is perfect for a Sabbath Themed pedal.
I will very much need to steal this 😉
I just got back from Mars and man it is cold there! -140F last night.
#CountdownToMars
I love this Combo! Very well executed! Thanks for sharing.
If you would like to go to Mars here is your chance: https://mars.nasa.gov/mars2020/participate/photo-booth/
FFS I must be losing my mind. I will fix it directly.
Yes it would be kind of hard to populate an LED when I have the led holes plugged with the LED footswitch wires.
That is sweet and very well executed.
I believe the addition of the Blend control makes it all the more versatile. Especially with Wilkie’s Mod.
Did you use a socket and see approach on choosing the capacitors for the Mod or go with what was written?
With regards to resistors the ones to watch for are resistors used to Bias a transistor. They should be exact.
What I did was buy a component kit so I had a lot then eventually I would add more.
You can get ceramic cap kits very cheap on eBay.
The white “audio” wires both go to the top T Pad In and Out as shown. The other Pad uses the black wire is ground.
You can verify this using your DMM in “continuity” (beep) mode. You can also verify the audio path
The purple wires in the document also both go to the top T pad as well.
Your white audio wires need to both be connected to the T pad. Then to Lugs 1 and 7 of the 3PDT then from Lugs 2 and 8 to the Jack Tips respectively. It is the same numbering whether using a 3PDT Board or not. This again can also be verified with your DMM by a Beep when they are connected properly.
Hard to tell from the pics but it looks from this one angle that you may have the white and black wires mixed up.
See image to the Tip Pad. The white arrow should be the white wire and black arrow should be black wire.
T stands for TIP and routes from Main Board T to the 3pdt and ultimately to the jack TIP lug.
I am glad you got this sorted out.
Just when you think you have covered every possibility of a typo one shows up. Moreover this typo has been stagnate for a very, very long time. Most likely to people using the schematic however I feel I need to point out that I need to know if there is such a typo for me to fix it.
So while this caused you an issue up front I appreciate you using the forum and finding a resolution and now that I know there is a typo it has been fixed so your trouble will ultimately save others from that experience.
Thanks.
Big-O you are pretty artsy oriented which is probably a bit of State College, Pa that rubbed off on you.
That is a compliment from my corner BTW!
That said if you care to make a drawing that you deem sensible for all levels of builders and would take up say a “Page” would you care to put something together for me?
The drilling template is 100% accurate for the location of the potentiometers which is exported directly from EAGLE which is the program used to design the boards. You need to print it out without any resizing options on when you print.
If you are looking for a paint by numbers which includes side jacks or top jacks there are many to choose from .
You could start with our Beginners Pedal Building Guide found on our Guides Page: There are many other guides there as well with pictures. It is near the top of the list.
Simply pick the one that is best for you and mark your enclosure with a hole punch then lay our Potentiometer drill template included in the Build Document on the face of the enclosure and mark that with a hole punch.
We do not make a full paint by numbers template because so many people will do their enclosure differently to suit their own needs which includes deciding on top jacks or side jacks, putting the foot switch higher or lower depending on battery needs etc..
If you have needs beyond our options and are using a 125B enclosure then Google “125B drilling template” and choose what you like best or DIY your own template as Billy points out above.
I hope that helps.
Hi and welcome,
Mods 3 and 6: Absolutely.
Mod 5: I can agree with you on that.
Mod 4: You want this for new, less saturated tones. Yes.
Mod 1: It sounds to me from what you have wrote you may want to consider bypassing the tone section altogether and “Inject” a Tone TwEQ since it will offer more options with widely varying degrees and will work excellent on both Bass and 6-string guitars. I think it will also allow you to achieve the tonalities you require a lot quicker as well.
Then maybe even add a Buff N Blend because why not?
