@barry
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Verify that you have a 2N5087 in Q1 and not 2N5088.
Verify again that you have 9v minimum at the 9v pad.
Paul can you remove IC3 from the board you are currently working on and give me the last 3 numbers from the batch code please?
Should be 588, 601 or 621.
Thanks.
Another case that calls back a previous thread about getting some bad merchandise.
I am very glad it is now working and also that you enjoyed all the extra stuff I sent.
So what pedal is next?
I am going to have more follow up questions later when I have a chance.
Also I am working on a GuitarPCB testing platform for future release.
Very well done.
Put your DMM on V and measure with a Red probe on the Drain Lead of J113 (Q5) and put the Black Probe on any Ground.
Adjust the trimmer till it reads between 4.5v and 6v whatever sounds best to you.
I love all the deep analysis.
In regards to: The RM I built in the past does not have any shrill edge to my ears, but does incorporate an external bias and 5 input cap values so maybe I dialed it out.
Rory to me was a master of pushing limits with all of the tools at his disposal. The AC30 amp he often used. He was a master of his Strat including pinch and pop harmonics which I think were enhanced by both his Rangemaster and preferred amplifier tone settings pushing the limits of biting tone which he seems to reign in using his guitar. Rory definitely had a tone all his own when compared to others using similar equipment.
I am not sure of what Tonmann’s intentions were but there is a lot of tonal variety in the PURP circuit.
Chris you will need to start a new support thread.
You have an issue going on because we simply would not release a circuit that requires you to dime everything to get unity volume.
I am pretty sure they do Billy. I had to mentally rotate the board in my mind from the backside to see that but it looks to be correct.
You would not even believe how many tricky dick scenarios I have uncovered in my searches for the good stuff.
There is no reason not to use a buffer in either scenario. I suggest it for all the reasons you mention.
Nothing worse than taking a True Bypass pedal off your board for another guitar player to use along with his pair of 25 foot cables and all of a sudden everything turns to crap. Then he says why does your pedal sound like crap compared to his Boss Pedal (which is buffered).
You could also consider an AfterBlaster, killer tones await for those about to rock.
As practice I would try to mount the Pot wiring flush to the board. You can still do that by standing the board and holding it on edge with one hand while simultaneously pushing the wire forward (with the same hand) and heating the backside of the pads with your iron. It should then slip through flush. Obviously take your time. As for solder droplets it is quite common for solder bits to fall off onto a board while working on a project. You wouldn’t hear it happening. One tiny bump and you have to clean it up. It happens to all of us all of the time.
I agree. Find a way to enhance the bottom or see if there is something causing a lack of Bottom. You should only have to turn the Volume up to and 12:00 or half way and no further to have proper volume.
The Sriracha Fuzz does not have an “Active” tone control so the circuit cannot ADD high frequencies.
The problem is likely due to the lack of Bass so that when you turn the volume up you are only hearing the LOUD high frequencies.
Same as if you turned up and old transistor radio really loud. No Bass = Loud Highs.
There could be many causes for that issue. I would try only the Sriracha by itself and not hooked up with anything else. There is simply no way for the Sriracha to Boost Highs only.
That very well may be the issue of course. I cannot guarantee that.
Do you have other JFET to try? Like J201 or 2N5457 etc.? If you are going to do that I suggest a socket approach.
You can have a go but that is not how the 1044 works in the Klon.
Ultimately it might sound different but not for the reason you think.
In a real Klon 9v is used in the first stages of the circuit (input buffer and op-amp amplifier) and 18V is used in the last stages of the circuit to allow “more headroom”. In our experience however you are just creating more headroom space in a circuit that already has plenty of headroom to begin with making it really moot and we have put ours up against a Real Klon and there is not a discernible difference to our ears switching between them which is why we removed it from the circuit since the 1044 chip is finicky and if you use the wrong one introduces noise.
Finally since we did not add headroom, upon headroom you can now use our Ultra Gain Mod to switch between stock and a higher gain version of the circuit.
At the end of the day there will be stories of sniffing corks and slew rates but there is a huge amount of dynamics and rich harmonics to be found in our version of the circuit. Considering guitar pedals are not high end audio gear I am certainly satisfied.
You could put them on a socketed DPDT wiring board we were talking about before and test back and forth instantly between pairs. Let us know if you hear anything worth reporting or otherwise.
As the guy who approves board design I think I can make sunshine with a small anecdote.
I think this is a good teaching moment for anyone reading.
Back in the 60’s and 70’s pedals were unnecessarily HUGE! The size of EHX and Colorsound enclosures would take up the space of 2-3 pedals today on a pedal board.
Then along came a company named MXR who established themselves as a leader by the small SIZE of their pedals which likewise required much smaller circuit board designs than EHX or Colorsound.
MXR for their small pedals did not use stand offs.
Today board size is even more precious.
Many people want to cram 4, 5 and 6 knob circuits into a tiny 1590B enclosure.
At the end of the day the best way to sell more circuit boards is to make them as small as possible.
The only cost for the customer is that you use proper wire dressing to hold the board in place (just like MXR did) or simply use a piece of double sided adhesive.
That is why the few boards we sell which do not have on-board pots do not use stand offs. The majority today want tiny boards more than they want stand-offs. That has been the unwritten law for at least the last 15 years. That would also be why the major PCB people like myself all do pretty much the same thing.
So for comparison here is a photo of an all GuitarPCB build with at least 13 circuits in one enclosure not much bigger than a single Colorsound Power Boost pedal.
That said most of our boards include on-board potentiometers anyway.
I hope that helps.
