@barry
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The buff n blend would be an excellent way to do that however the phase will be Inverted so you will need to add a small single stage circuit like our Stage 3 Booster. Wire it in series with the Mini-Me before hooking it into the buff n blend.
You could also build a Paramix in a separate enclosure and run any number of pedals through it and will give you many more options including phase correction.
It is too difficult to make out where the wiring is going.
Maybe draw a picture showing us the connections you have made between the IN/Out Jacks and the wiring board and the main board.
Also you can check for continuity yourself to try and see what is not correct. This guide is for a standard foot-switch wiring but it uses a similar wiring scheme as the wiring board.
Yup you guessed it. Photos when you get home.
Also list Pot Values and any substitutions.
This must be Cranky Charles day.
Okay so R7 needs to be 470 ohm and not 470k ohm. Top right.
When you fix that it will also give you a chance to properly seat the cap beside it as well.
When you look at the schematic for R7 you will see exactly why 470k as opposed to 470R was killing your volume. Easy mistake to make and happens to all of us but that should take care of it and be sure to report back.
Obviously there is an issue as we would not release a circuit that would cause you to lose volume.
We need good clear photos of the top of the board and list any substitutions you may have made.
Anyway it is better to find the issue than try to mod it away.
Yes you are correct.
If you plan on mixing and trading pedals then a Paramix is indeed a great tool to have on your pedal board.
I wouldn’t be caught without one and any Bass Player would be able to use any pedal they have ever wanted to.
The phase is INVERTED. I cannot make any further determination based on the tone description.
This could also be a build issue and not necessarily just a phase issue. Typically a phase issue will sound like it is removing the bottom end from your tone.
Our general rule of thumb is to test and make sure the Main circuit board works fine on its own before putting it into a combo type build. Then you will know better if it is working properly or not. Being that you will need to insert a single stage circuit like our Stage 3 Booster which works quite well with the DSOTM it will be a good time to test the DSOTM by itself and see if you need to troubleshoot. Be sure to test the Phase correction circuit by itself as well before placing it in the combo.
A good tip is to have a battery on hand that has a 2.1mm tip so you can do a quick noise check. Batteries do not produce noise so if a battery is quiet and another power source does make noise then get rid of it. You do not want any cheap noisy power supplies in your chain to pass noise on down the line.
Not much to go on here.
The biggest clue is that you had it working then as a result of moving it to an enclosure it is not working.
That would indicate that there is a loose wire, short, bad solder joint etc..
Did you have a biasing issue when you initially tested it?
Unfortunately these are the kind of things that are hard for us to diagnose with no pictures or voltages.
I would re-flow all solder joints on and off board. Re-check all wiring and check for continuity with a DMM and finally if that does not work out we will need clear photos of both sides of the board as well as voltages of your transistor.
I cannot trace the wiring with that photo alone.
If it were me the first thing I would do is re-flow all solder joints on and off board. (about 15 minutes)
Then I would re-check the Audio path wiring. You can also do this by doing a continuity check with your DMM and making sure every single point is covered with Ground and Audio wiring. From main board to jacks from main board to foot-switch.
I would also trim the transistors and make sure they have a good mechanical connection.
If all of that fails report transistor voltages.
That is what I do for ever troubleshoot and yes we all have them from time to time.
I hope that helps.
There is no mod that I am aware of.
To switch the autowah, you need to get the inverse signal of the rectified envelope that is the control signal, which goes to the input of a VCA. You have to switch the inversion in/out. The control signal is coming from the emitter of Q2 – Q3 through R26 into the VCA. Trying to change that entire transistor pair setup into an inverting amp would be hard. Not impossible but a lot of modding.
Thank you for posting back as solved.
More people need to catch on at just how awesome the 2 Knob Job boards are.
So many instant foot-switchable applications it makes me dizzy!
Delay, Chorus, Reverb, Volume, Gain, Modulation, Boost, Fuzz, EQ etc…
